Eight screws on the bottom; remove to take off Metal Plate; use a screwdriver.
Inside, you will need 7mm socket wrench to remove the nuts.
Flip HRAP 3 back to top side, and lift off Control Panel.
Disconnect the Wire Harness that is connected to the Joystick.
Use a flathead screwdriver to put to the slot on bottom of Joystick Shaft.
Twist off the Ball Top.
With screwdriver, remove the two screws holding Joystick down.
The screws secure the Joystick Base to Mounting Bracket.
Remove the old Joystick.
You new Joystick has a Mounting Plate.
Either remove it so you can install the Joystick like the old one, or keep it.
Put in new Joystick.
Screw in the two screws if you not use Mounting Plate.
If you using the Mounting Plate, you will then need four screws.
Screw back on Ball Top.
Connect Wire Harness.
Place back Control Panel to position.
Flip over HRAP, put in nuts.
Screw Metal Plate.
But why did you buy a new Sanwa JLF when your new HRAP 3 already has Sanwa JLF?
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different suffix to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90°.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.