I agree, it’s easier to prove that a bunch of wires and other analog electronics, with the only thing resembling a computer brain would be a PCB, either a Cthulhu for systems from SNES to Gamecube, I heard there might be some hidden features I heard rumors about on certain PS2-> other system adapters, so I should get a Brook Universal USB for newer systems, A Genesis PCB disassembled, and ( just in case) a 3D Zero Adapter for using an SNES pad on a 3DO. Assuming everything is Capcom Fighter related, the only IRREPLACEABLE question mark is the PS2-> Wii Classic adapter. I assume, if necessary, to make sure there’s no PCB reprogramming, They check the programming of a Paradise Cthulhu and a Brook Universal USB PCB against a standard, and see if the code matches bit for bit.
By the way, can any of these PS2 -> Xbox 360, Xbox One, and Wii Classic devices, one PS3-> Switch USB adapter, and one Raphnet GameCube to N64 adapter (in case there’s MK Trilogy or KI Gold) have their capability to use rapid fire, pre programmed sequences. All except the Wii classic and the N64 have pre approved solutions in the Brook Universal USB. So if any of those have cheats, wait until the Brook beofore playing those games,
Are there a list of Acceptable PS2->Wii Classic hookup ( for Wii or Wii U or NES Mini or SNES Mini) adapters? Any list of acceptable conectors for N64 Fighters (is Raphnet GC-> N64 OK) and is a Paradise Cthulhu in SNES mode and a 3D Zero OK?
Final thinking about pad hacks and beyond the fighting game., I’ll literally play anything I have, hence the name “Jukebox and Jackpots,”
The Genesis 6 button, Genesis 3 button for Ms Pac Man, and Atari Jaguar. If there is nothing resembling a computer brain involved in the pad hack added or appearing to be tampered, easy pass? And the NES is covered with the Paradise Cthulhu.
Easy non-fighting consoles
I know there are no fight games on Colecovision, but it’s not just fight games, so Is an Edladdin Coleco discrete PCB considered competition legal and “cheat free”? And either an Edladdin Seagull Gen->7800 adapter ( assuing Gneesiss checks out) or discrete input 7800 PCB?
Mster system and Astrocade and basic Atari Joystick (and maybe Atari Booster Grip joystick, depending if I i know it’s a straight wire or not, which uses digitzal actuation of minimum paddle and maximum paddle for each of 2 extra buttons.) are direct wires. No PCB involved no cheat.
The 2 toughest ones are Intelivision and 5200
Intelivision requires standard logic chips from Mouser.com to correctly do something when N/S + W/E are actuated simultaneously, to make sure secondary diagonals are not read as tertiaries, 16-way) and also use pin swap adapters to use Flashback controllers on a INTV 1 mainly to make adding an external joystick easier.
The 5200 is a beautiful mess. First it’s natively analog with a non-centering stick. Good for some games, bad for others.
2 solutions are needed. Both involve a Bohoki PC controller adapter. Just Plug in a 15 pin PC airplane stick (people might not see the “L” in “flight”) and a 5200 controller for the keypad including start, reset and pause buttons and plug in. This is for a self-centering analog stick.
There also a digital stick solution. Use the same Bohoki adapter and pad hack and NES-style digtial 15 pin PC control pad. It contains an analog to digitial 9 way stick converting circuit (the ninth way is neutral, which on A->D adapters have to be actively wired)
Finaly the fact that the default Atari stick has a circular restrictor, which means the maximum the radius (assuming center=0) x^2 + Y^2 has to be less than 1 (arbitrary number of radius units).
However a Competition Pro is a fight stick which uses x= -1, 0, or +1, and y=-1, 0, or 1 and the hacked PC controller might act similarly. Bt ther diagonals and maximum x or -x and maximum y or -y. Which means the radius is 1.41 times the circtular restrictor.
This has 2 effects.
Some games give you a diagonal speed boost that’s impossible with a stock controller if it’s an analog game. So that might be considered cheating. But you only go three speeds, maximum cardinal, maximum diagonal, and stop, even it it’s legal it might hurt you.
Other games are programmed like digital 4 way games, like Qix, Popeye, and Mountain King. Here’s an equation to turn any circular radius analog into a digtial 4-way. if X=> =-80, then by defintion ,Y<=+/-60 is automatic and doesn’tt need explicit code. and, the same equation except with swapping X and Y. This means the cardinals will only activate if it’s perpendicularly close to center. If you try to split the difference, and do a decent diagonal, the signal is read as a null signal because a direction must be 80+ to actuate, and it guarantees the other axis is intended to be centered. Both X and Y cannot be both +/- 80 or more.
However I know te Competiition Pro has a rectangular restrictors both physically and electronically, so X and Y CAN be both actuated. This was an era where you just can’t throw ROM space into something to patch something ,saving some bits per line increases your space elsewhere. With a line like “If X>+/-80”, you don’t have to add “AND Y<=60”, because the only controller in existence has a restrictor enforced diagonal lockout by physics, so it’s a code saver. The Competition Pro throws that out the window. And maybe, depending on the digitization circuit of the digital PC pad, so would a PC Digital Pad have that problem.
The easiest cure is having a 4/8 way switchable digital stick.