Hori EX-SE Joystick swap


#1

So i am have my parts ordered a Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK and Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal (if i want to try out Oct). Everything is looking good super easy swap, but i take a look and see Hori as hot-glue on everything.

Is this normal of Hori?

Also LL is out of Quick Connect, .187" Insulated and does not say on there website if they are male or female. The picture looks to be female just want to double check to make sure before i order them from somewhere else.


#2

It’s normal on the hrap3. Just cut the wires off at the ends and use .187 connectors so it’ll be easy swaps next time you need to remove the stick. You can get the connectors from radio shack or any electrical stores.


#3

The connectors you need are female. A Radio Shack with a parts section should have them for 20-24 gauge wire. Barring that a car parts store or even Home Depot will have them, though they’ll be for 14 or 16 gauge wire usually, so it’ll take some doing to get a good connection.

Most hot glue can be removed with a hobby knife (X-Acto) when cold and brittle. Do not try to heat it up to remove it unless you like sticky, gooey messes. Ice can help cool down the glue to make it brittle.


#4

I just swapped out the LS-32 from my EX-SE for a LS-56 with an octagonal restrictor. I got the .187 connectors with insulation from an electronic magazine that my pop buys stuff from for his LED hobbies.

http://184.72.239.143/mu/ad319e4f-f1e0-7338.jpg


#5

Thanks for the info!

Only thing i am not sure of is this part on the side of the Sanwa micro. Grounding?

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/346/jlftm8tsk.jpg

There is one on each micro so 4 all together.

Edit* Wait could it just be the connect for 4 way.


#6

There should be two prongs on each micro switch. Before you disconnect it from the original one I would mark the wires for ground with a sharpie although i dont think it matters. also I would tape each set of wire and label them up down left right. That is what I did before I cut the wires off the original stick.


#7

It really doesn’t matter. All the switch does is connect the two sides together when it is pressed. I prefer to put ground on the outside part you are pointing at.


#8

update! Fixed.
Uh great it’s not working… I marked everything right i have no idea what is wrong. I put one in to the two side connect and it works. Works as in it spams the game with the up-back command. So they are connect and should be working…

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4356/img1004h.jpg

I hooked it back up to the old stick and it works fine wtf…

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4453/fixup.jpg

FIXED.


#9

i have a question kind of along the same lines, i’m doing the same swap for sanwa parts in an hrap ex se, but i would like to use the exisiting ls32 in a TE stick after i am done, only problem is, the TE uses the flash piece on the sanwa stick and not the prongs on the micro switches, i just don’t know how to go about hooking up the wires to the ls32 in the te without having to do any soldering to the pcb


#10

If you don’t mind doing a bit of soldering and wire cutting, I would:

  1. Remove the Sanwa stick and detach the wire harness connecting to the Sanwa JLF 5-pin points.
  2. Cut half the length the wires of the wire harness, be sure that wire harness is still plugged into to TE PCB.
  3. Expose stranded wire of each wire harness, solder additional wire to allow wire to reach microswitch prongs.
  4. Daisy chain grounds to LS-32 and assign signal wires for directional inputs, then solder the loose wires to the wire harness accordingly.

#11

JLF on an EX-SE? On one of the few top panels of that form factor that accepts Seimitsu sticks?

/SCANDALIZED