The PS4 Phat and the PS4 slim aren’t the same hardware.
The two consoles have different tolerances for USB.
- Part of the problem no one wants to pay attention to is that the USB devices has to send a request when it first plugs into the host (in our case a PS4).
If the host accepts the request (including requesting sufficient power in watts to power everything) there is a handshake between the device and host and things go as planned.
And most USB Hosts, especially PC motherboards on USB 2.0/ 1.1 ports and some consoles are really stingy on power. That is where half the problem comes in.
This can be sometimes worked arounded by using a powered USB hub (A USB hub with it’s own power source, min 1amp from the AC/DC adapter.
Sad thing is the better made host devices sometimes are pickier than the cheap ones.
- The other part is the length of the USB cable. USB cables are supposed to go no more than 10 feet with 15 feet being the max.
Pass 15 feet USB cables will fail unless a repeater of some kind is used.
Because at those lengths you start to notice two different forces into play:
A. voltage drop (longer the wire, the higher the resistance and thus lower the voltage on the other side)
B. And more importantly Interference.
Interference is the most annoying part, cheap unshielded cables tend to do poorly. And the stock USB cables in most arcade sticks are already skimming the minimum side of USB specs.
Keep in mind, every wire also acts as an antenna, and as an antenna every wire will pick up Radio Frequency (RF) and Electromagnetic (EM) interference.
Any number of home appliances and electronic devices throws off RF and EM Interference, even your own wires and Cables interfere with itself (electrical current passing through a wire will produce a magnetic field).
Hence why most modders like to keep their wiring as short and tidy as possible. If you ever hear the term Cross-Talk, that is two data wires (true with both digital or analog) start interfering with the other and a single wire end up sending the signals of both wires. With analog signals you develop what is called an interference pattern, when it comes to digital and how digital works it works with absolute Pulses (on and off states, ones and zeros) instead of wave functions. Mess with the pulses of Ones and Zeros, and you lose the the entire Data being sent.
A Good, Well made USB cable will have the Data - and Data + lines in a twisted pair, as well as some kind of shielding (foil with a drain wire or preferably a wire braid covering all the internal wiring).
Another good trait of a well made USB cable is the wiring thicker, a smaller number gauge is used to help battle the effects of interference and voltage drop.
Which is also why you want to always tie the shield ground into ground somewhere. Some Hori and Mad Catz PCBs have a dedicated S Gnd pad or via to tie the Shield to ground.