HORI Fighting EDGE


You just need a new USB cable.


@Gummo mentioned that start and back need to be inverted on the 360 version of this stick. Could someone please show the best way to achieve this?


Its the same hack as it was used for the triggers for many Xbox 360 PAD HACKS.


Here’s an image of the 360 version of the PCB:

Hm. I’m familiar with both the 74HCT14 and NPN transistor hacks, but I’m not entirely sure how they should be applied in this case. Would I just use a 5V point for high, the signal for wiper, and any ground for low?


Better yet try the same circuit gummo used here to invert the PS4’s L1 and R1

Substitute L1 and R1 in Gummo’s image for yur start and select.


I don’t really want to spam anything or whatever, but I’m doing an interest check on kickstarting custom gates for the Hayabusa stick. Just in case FE owners don’t see the thread I made, I’m simply linking it here. Any FE owners interested in such a thing?


I’m thinking about getting the newly released white edition of this stick. I’m still not sold on the kuro buttons though. Anyone actually prefer them over sanwas? I’m also not liking that the white sanwas do not match the stick.


If you don’t like how the buttons feel you can yank out the switches from your Sanwa buttons and install them in Kuro buttons. Then you’ll get that “mostly” Sanwa feel.


Honestly, I think kuro and sanwas both feel just fine. I wouldn’t say I prefer either.


Agreed. Sanwas, Kuros, and HBSFs feel about the same to me; I don’t have issues switching between them.

The Hayabusa, OTH, is definitely worse for me than the JLF. I love it’s throw and smoothness; It feels like the offspring of the LS-40 (my favorite Seimitsu) and JLF and seems to have the pros of both sticks. However, there’s definitely an issue with hitting diagonals consistently. Almost have to ride the gate when doing fast motions. This is my second Hayabusa and they both display the same priority for main directional inputs (N,S,W,E) over diagonals (NW,NE,SW,SE). Not sure if it has something to do with the position of the switches or size of the actuator.
I’ll probably get another JLF with a 2lb spring and maybe a slightly over-sized actuator for my Fighting Edge. :frowning:


chaoslimits, I suggest you send your Hayabusa to a fellow sak player, like me.

Edit: Level 2, woo!!!


What? Nothing Worst than the JLF. (LOL, Kidding)

I second this nomination and now Tech Talk must put it to a vote.


Lol. It’s odd that I’m still considered a Sak player (I quit SF4 for SFxT at launch). Those were some good times in Sak forums.

Something’s amiss with this nomination!
I wonder if something can be done about the diagonal issue. Are the actuators the same size as the JLF? I ordered some from Paradise Arcade to see if they are interchangeable.


I just messing with ya, I think Moonchilde said the shaft is nearly identical to the JLF, so I am sure a JLF actuator will fit.


Never had issues with diagonals on Hayabusa. I’m sure a lever mod would make them even better. All springs, actuators, and replacement JLF shafts fit the Hayabusa.
I think JLFs can be made passable with mods but there is absolutely nothing you can do about that dead zone wiggle. The Hayabusa has none of that.


Does that mean a JLF Link will work with a hayabusa?


Yes. JLF Link works with Hayabusa. I have one installed right now. Before you start buying actuators, be aware that the stock actuator is .5mm bigger than a stock JLF actuator.


Maybe I’m not describing it properly. It’s sort of like the contact time for diagonal inputs (both down and forward for example) is much less than JLF. Like the JLF stays in the diagonal for a longer time. If that makes more sense :S

Edit: Similar to this post: Hori Hayabusa unboxing + mods!


If you mean that the shaft travels farther to the corner of the gate then you are talking about throw. @GeorgeC outlined that the throw is longer than a JLF square gate but this shouldn’t be effecting your diagonals since the switches activate far before the actuator contacts the gate. The switches engage much faster on the Hayabusa than on a JLF. I would compare the engage more to the LS-5x joysticks. You don’t need to contact the gate to input directions and some people prefer this. Gate riding is actually a bad habit. You shouldn’t be depending on the gate shape and size to dictate your joystick movements. The switches on the Hayabusa are actually closer to the neutral position on the shaft and the actuator is .5mm bigger than a JLF. This should make for quicker diagonals. Not the other way around. A good way to test this for yourself is to go into training mode and turn input display on. Move each joystick diagonally and see how much movement each shaft makes before showing the input on screen. You should find that the Hayabusa needs to travel much shorter of a distance than the JLF. Your problem might be more personal than you think. You may just need to adjust or maybe the Hayabusa just isn’t comfortable for you. I simply find it hard to believe that diagonals would be worse than a JLF based on the construction of each joystick and my personal experience with each.


It’s odd. I currently have an LS-32, JLF, and two hayabusas. I don’t experience the issue on any other stick but the hayabusa. Spent some time doing some TKCS in training mode and could see the missing diagonal input. Switched to JLF and the input seems fine. I didn’t think they were different enough to get such a difference in input. When my parts from PAS get in, I’ll swap them around and see if the issue persists. Thanks for the info.