Hori FS3 Wii EX2 modding thread(What you need to know bout modding one of these)

Due to how ridiculously cheap these sticks are you probably got one of these over those other $100+ sticks that contain Japanese parts.

But you noticed that you wanted to upgrade/mod your Hori Fighting Stick 3, Hori Fighting Stick Wii, and the Hori Fighting Stick EX2. This thread will contain all the stuff needed to do so.

This is divided up into sections:

  1. Basic/PCB/misc info
  2. Guides
  3. Other guides/mods/fixes
  4. Templates
  5. PC drivers
  6. meh

Might as well put the spoiler option into good use.

1. Basic/PCB/misc info

Basic/PCB/misc info

[details=Spoiler]Some basic information: These sticks use hori knockoffs of Japanese parts such as Sanwa and Seimitsu.
The height of the stick is quite small and won’t fit any american type parts such as Happ and IL.
The pcbs are common ground

The tools required for a full mod is generally:

Dremmel with Grinding stone bit
Philips and Flathead screwdriver
Soldering iron and Solder
Wirestrippers(unless you want to use scissors)

Depending on which path you take to mod your stick, more materials may be needed.

PCB info: As mentioned the PCB share a common ground.
On the right side of the pcb are the directions. Based on what i’ve gathered between the FS 3/wii/EX2 they are different. I suggest to look at each wire and see where they go on the stock stick. Mark down which direction is which. Ignore if your going to use a different PCB.
The smaller pcb on the top that controls start/back/guide and turbo may be used and can be desoldered from the main board and still retain the function of the 3 buttons.
From left to right with buttons on the left side the soldered part is:
Ground Start/+ Guide/Home Select/Back/-
The main board is required if your going to use any turbo functions however(unsure but I’m pretty sure this is the case, please confirm if possible).

FS3 PCB (Please be sure to take some time to make sure that the contacts correspond correctly. Especially directions. specifically take special care if your going to use this for the other pcbs

Other info: Below the plate, the LS-32 has the longest shaft of all the Japanese joysticks. LS-33 has the shortest.
Slagcoin has a chart with all the details on various sticks. (scroll down to joystick models)
Use snapin buttons, do not get screw-ins, I’m uncertain if they will all fit.[/details]

2. Guides


[details=Spoiler]Since there are already several guides out there, I’m just going to link/quote them all.

Please note there are many approaches to the stick mounting part. This is for any mods to swapping out parts. Other mods will be farther down. Review through all the guides and figure out which one will best suit your needs.

All guides work on all of these sticks regardless of what model they are
They are all the same

Video Guide thanks to Coverless Tech. This is the only video guide btw.
Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
Part 4:
Part 5:

Written/pictures guides:

Essentially the same guide as the one Coverless Tech did. I find Coverless tech’s approach with the screwdriver better though.

One of the first guides out there

Here’s something i did, This uses the top metal panel and removes the plastic inside the box. This gives you a ton of more room to mount the stick and possibly won’t require the sanding down of the bottom for some sticks. Stick only guide.
If you want a more reliable way to drill the holes look 2 guides below with the same

This is a different approach that uses the plastic to top mount the stick. Stick only guide.

Just another guide. This uses special screws to mount the stick. the bottom was cut out and clear plastic was used to cover it.

Similar my picture guide, this one uses just the plastic instead and ignores the metal plate. Bottom mount.
The way this guy marked where the screws are to be drilled can be used in conjunction with if you were to leave the metal plate on. After that, remove the metal plate, make a small hole from the bottom, then drill from the top

3. Other guides/mods/fixes

Other guides/mods/fixes

[details=Spoiler]Get the octogonal restrictor on stock hori stick: …The original link to the guide is dead. To do this though, its just merely removing the original restrictor, put on the restrictor, then drill/screw on using the original screws. Here’s a mini guide

Buttons Ain’t Workin: This is either the button itself or the PCB. open up the stick and grab bendable metal(wire, paper clip). Plug you stick in and start up training mode. If your select button is screwed up then just leave it at whatever screen its at. Now grab some bendable metal(Wire, paperclip). Take one end and put it on one prong/soldered side of the button, and take the other end and put it on the other. If something happens It’s the button itself. Now in the event that nothing happens Try to figure out which part is ground. put one end of the metal on that, and put the other end on a different ground. Now press the button If something happens its the PCB
Now the fixes:
For buttons, you need to replace it.
For defective pcbs, solder the ground of the defective button part to another ground[/details]

4. Templates


[details=Spoiler]These are for Wii/FS3
http://www.mediafire.com/?wi0yhhqytmz JPG format
Another link, thanks to areyouken.
http://www.handlemy.biz/Hori_FS3.zip PSD format. Has layers of each button and stick and other goodies
Networkingyuppy’s original which to me was oversized
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/Networkingyuppy/fightingsticktemplatesshx8.jpg JPG format

These are for the EX2
Thanks to this guy
Alternative DL locations
http://www.mediafire.com/?4dfllzm3ykm PSD file
http://www.mediafire.com/?ynlydyult1d PDF files

Template thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=181210[/details]

5. PC drivers


[details=Spoiler]EX2: use the official m$ ones or use XBCD
XBCD 0.2.6 http://redcl0ud.1.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=1816&st=0
XBCD+ http://redcl0ud.1.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=1571

Thread on it: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=5880926


6. meh
Thanks to all who have contributed so far

Hopefully there will be less threads/questions on these type of things. Oh post pictures of any of your mods here too, don’t need to make new threads. I’ll update if the method is unique.

Though if you still have a question, ask here

Please post up if I’m missing any info.

I thought that the PCBs were common ground?

the MF one should be correct be i added it as an alternative mirror

The buttons are not common ground. I’m not sure about the directions(They could be common need someone to confirm). The mini board that holds start/select/home is common ground(i know this for sure).

When you make this mode with a JLF, there is a wiring harness, and only 1 ground cable, 4 direction cables. But there are 8 soldering points for the joystick. So the joystick soldering points are common.

Art template for EX2 can be found here:

Looks like my vids are making circulation. Nice. Subscribe to the channel and recommend future videos! The first two links are broken though. Here are the correct links:
Part 1:
Part 2:

Its common ground, even the buttons. You only have to daisy chain if your using a different pcb like one out of a 360 pad.

i find that the fs3 buttons are a too little close to the joystick… i really like the madcatz button layout and would like to get a new top plate and drill the holes out. can anyone point me to a template? has anyone done this? sorry i can’t search search for another 239871239847 seconds, tia

grab a template from here so you can get the border. There’s no indication of where the screw holes are, sorry.

grab a button hole template from somewhere else. (Or get the madcatz template).

remove all the holes and white part via magic eraser. You don’t want to change the stick part because that is where the plastic mounting is. Unless you plan on doing a bottom mount via cutting platsic.

If you got the button hole template, make a new layer and copy the template onto it. Drag that to suit your needs.

If you got the madcatz template. Select the part where the stick and buttons are, copy and do as above.

print, find a sheet of metal, cut.

any1 knw how to fit like a small picture to a template using photoshop?

Anyone put 2 pcbs in one of these yet? i know it’ll be a tight fit, but just curious. I have a fs3 and I want to put a 360 pcb in from one of the those madcatz retro sticks.

There likely won’t be enough room for both without soldering the button to the stock PCB (bend the prongs and clip to fit like the horis) and then very carefully soldering the wires from the mad catz pcb to the same spots on the stock PCB.

I’m sure it’s possible, it’s just a really damned tight fit, is all.

It seems like I’ve posted this on every EX2 related thread, but here goes. I don’t think I’ll be getting a JLF anytime soon, right now I’m OK with the standard Hori shaft, but I feel that it’s a little short. I’d like to add a nut/spacer just under the balltop to increase the height. The OP in the DOA4 mod did it, but he hasn’t answered me yet. Would anyone know the size of the nut I’ll have to get?

Is anybody planning on doing a little more in depth guide on modding an FS3? Like with pictures and suggested joysticks and buttons?

constellation: use a M6 nut, should work.

Killa look at the video guide or the neo-geo site guide, they’re all essentially the same guide.

Ah ok, thanks man.

Hopefully, its more difficult than modding my MadCrapz SE Stick. Was a bit too easy even for a joystick noob like myself.

You want it to be harder? Cool I guess. You can watch me do my first Hori mod ever in the video tutorials.

Yeah, I really didn’t learn that much modding the SE Stick man. I want to eventually be able to make a joystick from scratch.

I’m hoping to progress like this:

SE Stick => Hori Stick => Custom Stick

Not the best way to approach making your own custom

The hori stick is just annoying to mod. It has absolutely nothing to do with constructing your own custom, except maybe allow you to understand top/bottom mounting.

If you want to build your own, you should be following slagcoin’s builds and looking at building logs.

Thanks for the heads up.

Guess I’ll just sell my FS3 than or should I gut it for the PCB and stuff?