Due to how ridiculously cheap these sticks are you probably got one of these over those other $100+ sticks that contain Japanese parts.
But you noticed that you wanted to upgrade/mod your Hori Fighting Stick 3, Hori Fighting Stick Wii, and the Hori Fighting Stick EX2. This thread will contain all the stuff needed to do so.
This is divided up into sections:
- Basic/PCB/misc info
- Other guides/mods/fixes
- PC drivers
Might as well put the spoiler option into good use.
1. Basic/PCB/misc info
[details=Spoiler]Some basic information: These sticks use hori knockoffs of Japanese parts such as Sanwa and Seimitsu.
The height of the stick is quite small and won’t fit any american type parts such as Happ and IL.
The pcbs are common ground
The tools required for a full mod is generally:
Dremmel with Grinding stone bit
Philips and Flathead screwdriver
Soldering iron and Solder
Wirestrippers(unless you want to use scissors)
Depending on which path you take to mod your stick, more materials may be needed.
PCB info: As mentioned the PCB share a common ground.
On the right side of the pcb are the directions. Based on what i’ve gathered between the FS 3/wii/EX2 they are different. I suggest to look at each wire and see where they go on the stock stick. Mark down which direction is which. Ignore if your going to use a different PCB.
The smaller pcb on the top that controls start/back/guide and turbo may be used and can be desoldered from the main board and still retain the function of the 3 buttons.
From left to right with buttons on the left side the soldered part is:
Ground Start/+ Guide/Home Select/Back/-
The main board is required if your going to use any turbo functions however(unsure but I’m pretty sure this is the case, please confirm if possible).
Other info: Below the plate, the LS-32 has the longest shaft of all the Japanese joysticks. LS-33 has the shortest.
Slagcoin has a chart with all the details on various sticks. (scroll down to joystick models)
Use snapin buttons, do not get screw-ins, I’m uncertain if they will all fit.[/details]
[details=Spoiler]Since there are already several guides out there, I’m just going to link/quote them all.
Please note there are many approaches to the stick mounting part. This is for any mods to swapping out parts. Other mods will be farther down. Review through all the guides and figure out which one will best suit your needs.
All guides work on all of these sticks regardless of what model they are
They are all the same
Video Guide thanks to Coverless Tech. This is the only video guide btw.
Essentially the same guide as the one Coverless Tech did. I find Coverless tech’s approach with the screwdriver better though.
One of the first guides out there
Here’s something i did, This uses the top metal panel and removes the plastic inside the box. This gives you a ton of more room to mount the stick and possibly won’t require the sanding down of the bottom for some sticks. Stick only guide.
If you want a more reliable way to drill the holes look 2 guides below with the same
This is a different approach that uses the plastic to top mount the stick. Stick only guide.
Just another guide. This uses special screws to mount the stick. the bottom was cut out and clear plastic was used to cover it.
Similar my picture guide, this one uses just the plastic instead and ignores the metal plate. Bottom mount.
The way this guy marked where the screws are to be drilled can be used in conjunction with if you were to leave the metal plate on. After that, remove the metal plate, make a small hole from the bottom, then drill from the top
3. Other guides/mods/fixes
[details=Spoiler]Get the octogonal restrictor on stock hori stick: …The original link to the guide is dead. To do this though, its just merely removing the original restrictor, put on the restrictor, then drill/screw on using the original screws. Here’s a mini guide
Buttons Ain’t Workin: This is either the button itself or the PCB. open up the stick and grab bendable metal(wire, paper clip). Plug you stick in and start up training mode. If your select button is screwed up then just leave it at whatever screen its at. Now grab some bendable metal(Wire, paperclip). Take one end and put it on one prong/soldered side of the button, and take the other end and put it on the other. If something happens It’s the button itself. Now in the event that nothing happens Try to figure out which part is ground. put one end of the metal on that, and put the other end on a different ground. Now press the button If something happens its the PCB
Now the fixes:
For buttons, you need to replace it.
For defective pcbs, solder the ground of the defective button part to another ground[/details]
[details=Spoiler]These are for Wii/FS3
http://www.mediafire.com/?wi0yhhqytmz JPG format
Another link, thanks to areyouken.
http://www.handlemy.biz/Hori_FS3.zip PSD format. Has layers of each button and stick and other goodies
Networkingyuppy’s original which to me was oversized
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d96/Networkingyuppy/fightingsticktemplatesshx8.jpg JPG format
Template thread http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=181210[/details]
5. PC drivers
[details=Spoiler]EX2: use the official m$ ones or use XBCD
XBCD 0.2.6 http://redcl0ud.1.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=1816&st=0
Thanks to all who have contributed so far
Hopefully there will be less threads/questions on these type of things. Oh post pictures of any of your mods here too, don’t need to make new threads. I’ll update if the method is unique.
Though if you still have a question, ask here
Please post up if I’m missing any info.