Hori Hayabusa unboxing + mods!

The gate is made from Lexan which is the louder portion of the noise. The actuator is also hard delrin plastic so two hard plastics smacking against each other will do that.

A delrin gate will cut down the noise quite a bit.

@Moonchilde I was just wondering where did you get you shaft, dustwasher and bat top (of the purest dragon silver :D) looks schweet btw!

Why not?

I don’t have a stock T5 to test this with anymore though and I don’t plan another one. I’m done with buying T5’s and older-style HRAP’s…
However, given how closely the Hayabusa adheres to most JLF-spec measurements the odds would be in favor of the JLF/T5 “simple” mod working for the Hayabusa as well.

You’d have to remove the Hayabusa Mounting Plate, of course, but it should screw in from the bottom just like the JLF did. The Hayabusa base has more bulk to it, yes, but the screws all line up in the same position that they did on the JLF. (Can you tell now that Hori really didn’t want to veer too far off from the JLF if they could avoid it? LOL) You could probably reuse the same T5 screws that hold the OEM T5 joystick in place with the Hayabusa as well. That’s what everybody who performed the JLF gate mod (for the T5) did at any rate. It’s a pain to replace hardware if you don’t have to… The only problem is that the stock T5 screws might not be quite long enough for the Hayabusa to screw onto the Hori T5 Mounting Bracket but, again, I can’t test this myself.

I ended up selling most of my T5’s. The last T5 faceplate I still have was modded to mount Seimitsu joysticks or JLF’s with the Mounting Plate screwed on…

Yeah I a few different sizes to see if any of them makes a difference. I love the feel of the hayabasa and don’t want to give it up just yet.

Something that might be helpful to some.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/insidete.jpg

You have to cut the piece circled in red under the turbo panel off to allow the Hayabusa connector to have clearance inside a TE.

I had to cut the exact same piece to install the LS-32 in at least two of my TE’s, too!

The 5-prong attachment for the harness lies over that cylindrical part circled in red…
What happens is that the Mad Catz JLF/lever harness tends to bundle at that point underneath the 5-prong adapter after it gets plugged in. You definitely don’t want that! Over time, it WOULD bend the 5-prong adapter upwards and could damage the joystick PCB…

It just happens that the 5-prong attachment point on the LS-32 and Hayabusa are in the same positions on the base. The JLF, LS-32, LS-40, and LS-58 have their 5-prong attachments about halfway/center-wise on the side of their respective PCB bases.

I really don’t know what the advantage is in having the 5-prong where it is on the LS-32 and Hayabusa. My guess is the 5-prong ended up where it is on those joysticks because of how the switch layout and adapter/PCB terminals worked out for those joysticks. Obviously, they weren’t designed the way they were just to annoy Mad Catz TE owners!

So here we go people. Just got a chance to test the HLF-56 =)

Basically a very close variation of Moonchilde’s lever mod. Same spring and it uses levers. I just opted for the lighter weight Omron’s (VX-51-1C23). Thse have the same resistance as the old school Cherries, just with levers.

I call it a HLF-56 because it feels a lot more like a JLF than with the Matsushita switches plus it leverages the user of levers (bad pun). The switches seem to engage further out so it is somewhat in between a JLF and Moon’s mod.

I have used levered switches before in the LS-56 without really knowing what they did until Moon explained it, and I feel the levers in the Hayabusa greatly improve the feel of it for me. I said before I didn’t have strong feelings either way (good or bad) toward the stock Hayabusa, but after modding it, I must say. I really like it. I don’t expect it to make me a god, but It does have a really nice feel.

Thanks Moon + others, for all your help and suggestions.

Again this mod leans towards people who want the benefits of levers and the Hayabusa’s hardware “improvements” but want the feel of a JLF.

Here are the pics.

(and yes, that’s the 3’ Goliathus mouse pad hehe)

I see you did some extra Dremeling there. Good work.

That’s a lot more modding than I’d want to do… but then again, I thought the original switch configuration worked out fine! Last thing I want to do is mod this joystick into an LS-joystick that I don’t particularly care for! LOL

I still think it’s entirely possible to reuse the existing wiring in the Hayabusa after desoldering the original microswitches. That original wiring, if there’s enough of it, can probably be retrofitted with 0.187 quick disconnects. I’d get jacketed QD’s (like the ones on the harness adapter; I have two of the same harness adapter for LS-32 clone sticks) to avoid potential short circuits as unlikely as they might be… From what I can see in the Hayabusa base, I think there’s enough clearance to avoid having to Dremel out holes in the H-base itself. If it’s not absolutely necessarily, the inner 0.187 prong by the switch casing hole can be Dremeled off altogether. I really wouldn’t want to shave the directional 0.187 prong tab much but, again, it looks doable. Biggest hardware constraint would be the size of the 0.187 QD’s after the length of the original wiring. The jacketed QD’s I see in the cable harness adapter are about twice as long as the “jacketed, soldered” terminal ends on the original microswitches. It may be that a slight base mod to accommodate 0.187 QD tabs is unavoidable!

Given how most people that own this joystick probably have alternating JLF’s and LS-joysticks in their home inventory, I kind of doubt micro replacement is that big a deal to worry about now. These things will last at least a few years unless you play with them 12 hours a day for a year!

The whole soldered microswitch issue was the one major thing I saw in the Hayabusa that I wasn’t altogether crazy about as far as construction was concerned. I’d imagine the H-stick was built this way to save on time and money; less complicated than having assembly line workers snake in an “orthodox” harness arrangement. I definitely prefer a fully removeable, swappable part option (with a fully useable 5-prong adapter) that an 0.187-tab mod would offer. Otherwise, it’s a solidly built, well-designed joystick!

Yeah. You use the original PCB. I did that originally, but I Believe it would be smarter to just use new wires for the PCB or solder the wires back exactly. Basically I didn’t solder them exactly to the new switches, making them shorter and thus pulling on the wires. But yeah, you could. I just prefer the new quick disconnects so nothing would get pulled on from the short wires. To each their own.

On a different note, does anyone know a cheap place or local replacement for the shin etsu grease? I thought I heard somewhere you could use Vaseline which I did after i washed the stick from the dremeling session. It works fine but on the first move of the stick I feel a tiny sticky feeling. I am guessing it’s because the vaseline. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

@Sethian0 - I usually get Molykote from PAS. It’s cheap and it comes in a syringe making it easy to apply exactly where you want it.

ty! anything local i can get today?

@Sethian0 - Any medium silicon based grease should work. Check your local hardware or automotive store.

So I’m guessing the Hayabusa doesn’t fit in the Madcatz SE. The mounting plat has a bit more width on both sides. I wonder why that decision was made when everything else is so close to the JLF otherwise.

You can put a Sanwa mounting plate on the Hayabusa and it will mount just like a JLF. The shape of the mounting plate fits perfectly in Hori’s newest form factor sticks (N3/NX and FE). Let’s not forget that it was designed for their own products. They may not have anticipated demand would be enough for them to sale them individually.

Superlube can be bought locally for about $5. It works pretty well.

ty

Never use Vaseline or any brand of petroleum jelly on a arcade stick. Petroleum in any form (especially gasoline) are solvents and can ruin the plastic of your arcade stick in time. Its murder on ABS, Acrylic and Lexan. Delrin is resistant to petroleum (but corrodes by hot water and chlorine).

Shin etsu is very hard to find locally in North America, most common places for Shin etsu are Honda dealerships and they refuse to sell the stuff directly to the public. So unless you got a good buddy who works at a Honda dealership, forget about it.

I strongly recommend Molykote, it has the same mil specs as Shin etsu. I would rather wait for a good tube of Molykote than to risk it with some generic stuff you find locally.
I got myself a 150g tube from Lizard Lick back in the day, I still got 99% of the tube still. it takes a pea sized amount to lube a stick, and a good lube lasts for years.

If you do get something local, a dry medium silicon based grease (zero petroleum) and non-conductive are what you want to look for.

roger that. ordering now. thanks!