Hori HRAP V4 announced... compatible with PS3 AND PS4


on amazon for the RAP 4 Kai, it said "Redesigned chassis and increased space between and below stick and buttons"
Below… does that mean more wrist space or a longer slant for resting? Does anyone have both the old+new stick to compare? Thanks


I’ve had both versions on the PS3 & I don’t recall anything different other than ~1-inch extra space in-between right of stick & left most buttons (square & x). If the top panel is similar to the PS3 Kai version then it’s more durable. Has a gloss (thicker?!?) finish whereas the og had a matte finish that had a tendency to discolor and/or peel. I never had these issues but some on eBay have them.


the ps4 version doesnt have that turbo panel on the top anymore, so if they didnt mess up that description, maybe they moved the buttons up?


Stick is kinda small, but it’s comfortable. Hayabusa is a cool lever. I don’t seem to be having the squeaking Kuros that I read so much about all the time. I kinda wanna pop this open to put some silencers and some weights inside. Very nice, though.


Let me see if I get the context right

Are you looking to see how much a stick weighs or how to make a stick heavier?


Damn. This looks pretty nice, but it says the picture may be different from the actual product. In any case I’d like to wait to see if you can change the range of the optical sensors and if previous HRAP plexi will fit.


So, I’m a dumb ass and waited to pre-order the Silent V.Hayabusa on Amiami because I wanted to sell my TE2 first. Didn’t have the chance to do that yet and Amiami already closed pre-orders. So I ended up pre-ordering from Play-Asia, but at least they don’t charge until they actually have the product and start shipping them out. Came up to a few cents short of $214. This is the price I pay


Pretty sure the non kai plexi will fit, I don’t think Hori would really mess around with their template for the 100000 models they are releasing this year, seems to be the normal v3/vx sa or v3/vx sa kai(stick is further from the buttons)

This is what it should look like, add shiny plastic and shiny gloss on the artwork~



Hi guys.

I am thinking of buying one of these sticks. Anyway living in Europe these seem to be the only financially viable good options.

Has the Real Arcade Pro V4 ‘Hayabusa’ been discontinued and replaced by the Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai for PS4? The former seems to be totally unavailable while the second one should now be in stock at Amazon.

I am not 100% sure I like the buttons being on the side as opposed to the upper right corner although these shouldn’t be very important. Also the stick is placed a bit further away from the buttons. I am used to HRAP3 which I believe had the Hayabusa layout as opposed to the Kai layout. Is it a huge difference or something I will not even notice?

Thanks for your time.


Yes arcade sticks get phased out and sold pretty quick and replaced with new models, the Real Arcade Pro V4 Hayabusa is the old PS3 version replaced with Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa, and the 4 Kai(wider stick to button spacing) both for PS4, as far as I could tell the V Hayabusa was only sold in Japan


The Real Arcade Pro V4 ‘Hayabusa’ was available for PS4 (launched around a year ago). I was going to buy it but now it seems to be unavailable and replaced by the Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai…


Replaced by the V Hayabusa
Kai version is just the wide spacing one


Ah okay. So the V Hayabusa replaced the V4 ‘Hayabusa’ and the 4 Kai is just another variant with different stick layout and touchpad/buttons on the side. I think I got it now.


Not sure if this is the right thread for this, but the HRAP V Silent got mentioned, so…

So, I got the HRAP V Silent today and tinkered with it. It has the same PCB ( https://i.imgur.com/MHxIF2G.jpg ) as the Last Round Stick and the recently released Kai, so I got to testing my theory. As I suspected, the 6 pin connection does include a 5v pin, so the optical Hayabusa can be swapped in with ease. The only problem with putting a normal stick in the HRAP V Silent is that you’d have to solder the new wires in. Put the optical Hayabusa in the Last Round stick and it functions just fine with two sets of joystick connections.

Images of the HRAP V Silent: https://imgur.com/a/YQvsN#0


@Chikalin So if I were to swap in a new lever into a Silent V Hayabusa, I’d have to solder at which points? If ever my Optical Hayabusa lever dies, I was hoping to easily swap in a JLF with an Optical Gamer Finger PCB using the existing harness.

Also thanks for the pictures. Kinda lame that the stick doesn’t have a padded bottom like the 4 Kai. I wonder if I can buy an extra 4 Kai bottom plate with the padding and swap it on to the Silent V Hayabusa. Curious if the dimensions are the same or slightly off.


@Laban I think the existing harness should be alright with the GamerFinger PCB assuming the cables are in the same order; I don’t have any experience with the GF PCB yet. Either way, we shouldn’t have to worry for about 10 years if the optical Hayabusa is as reliable as the Rollie.

And yeah, I was a little miffed that it didn’t have a padded bottom after one of my friends told me the HRAP4 Kai had one. Both of the sticks I’ve gotten have had that cold ass metal plate, so I’ll have to wear longer skirts or something, I dunno. I think the Kai has the exact same body, so maybe the bottom plates can be swapped out easily. I’ll ask one of my buddies with a Kai to gimme some measurements or take a picture to compare, because dat cold on the thighs.

Additionally, I’m now rapidly trying to figure out an easy and stealth way to get one of these optical Hayabusa into the Kuro VLX, but that’s a story for another topic.


@Chikalin Yo thanks for the response. Can’t wait to hear back on the feedback about the 4 Kai measurements. If they’re the exact same bottoms, the next issue is seeing where we can snag some 4 Kai bottom plates without having to buy the whole stick. I’ll ask Arcade Shock and I guess Hori USA.

Good luck on trying to put the Silent Hayabusa in the Kuro VLX. I’m just going the lazy route (of silencing the stick) by putting in a Silent JLF assembly and seeing if the FA or PAS silencing pads fit well into the Kuros, and call it a day. If they don’t fit in the Kuros, just gonna get my scalped OBSF-30 Dark Hai buttons and swap them with the main 6 buttons and put silencing pads in them. Then truly call it a day.

At least the Kuro VLX has a padded bottom! I want to make my Silent V Hayabusa the main stick I lug around to tournaments so I may use it just as much or more than the Kuro VLX. So I’d still like to be able to put a padded bottom on it. If worse comes to worst, I may just velcro a rubber mesh sheet or felt to the bottom plate.

Good luck!


Added a couple more images to the Last Round stick, actually. This is how it looks with the optical Hayabusa harness installed:

Wide shot: https://i.imgur.com/4L4wS8b.jpg

Close up: https://i.imgur.com/TA3fBSC.jpg

Order is literally the same between sticks aside from the 5v being the right most pin, and I know Sanwa levers can be hotswapped, so maybe the Rollie Flash and Gamerfinger PCBs can just be hotswapped in, too.


Here’s the diagram of a GamerFinger harness for reference

Hopefully the directions line up and everything else so it’s an easy swap


Well, just from that diagram, I can conclude that the optical Hayabusa and the Gamerfinger PCB have the wires in different orders. The order on the Hayabusa harness is ( when connected to the PCB, left to right ), ground, up, down, left, right, 5v.

I’m pondering over some things. The joystick connection that is unused on the HRAPV4, Kai, and Last Round Stick also works for standard sticks. The solder points are literally redundant. As such, I’m thinking trying to make custom, universal harnesses would be an easy task, even for the Gamerfinger PCB ( you’d just have to reorder the wires ). I need to dig up some information from someone who knows more than I do, though…

Edit: The HRAPV4 Kai does in fact use the exact same bottom as the rest of the recent sticks ( HRAP V Silent, Last Round, et al. ), so it should be easily swappable.