Hori RAP V pcb (yes been thru other posts and also on slagcoin)

Short version. Bought a RAP v off local fb site. Was a returned product on one of those pallet sales. I was made aware of this before buying. Left input is a dud. Switches in joystick tested ok for continuity as well as a good test for continuity at test pins on pcb. Im afraid i actually need a new pcb unless someone here can enlighten me further. Im not scared of soldering or tech talk. (modded ps1s and made ecig mods back in the day) But Im by no means a pro either. I just dont see any other place to test where I could be losing signal. Any input is appreciated.

Side note, if it is pcb, recommendations for sourcing a replacement?

Update, have also tested neutral and all individual joystick inputs at resistors 222. All tests for continuity good. Pics en route.

Stick activating left switch. Continuity good from neutral to left input pin

Have also unplugged harness from joystick and tested from green (left) at harness down to tes pins again and also to resistors (the 222). Also all neutrals on backside of resistors are good for continuity.

Specifically resistor at location r34 is for left input

Can you connect the “left” pin to the “ground” pin at the connector to see if that activates left?

That test does give a positive continuity result.

I’m not even sure what you mean.

The question is whether you can get “left” to happen in a game by shorting the two pins.

Sorry for my misunderstanding. I thought you meant just a generic test for continuity. No result from directly shorting the 2 pins in game. Left is still dead.

Yeah, the challenge is going to be figuring out how to get left to work. So you basically want to trace it back as much as possible - maybe there’s a bad or missing resistor. If you can’t get left to work, then the PCB isn’t worth much.

Yes I agree. I have tested continuity in front of each resistor to the end pins on the joystic plug and have a good signal for continuity on each. I also have checked the back side of each resistor for continuity to neutral and again have good signal. I think I’m just gonna get a generic arcade stick pcb and make due.

Thank you for your help and interaction. I appreciate it.

If you want to source a good PCB replacement, anything by Brooks is a good choice.
Zero delay is cheap

If nothing else, you can pad hack a cheap 3rd party game pad.

Funny you should mention that… I tried. At side job now. Pics to come. Needless to say, unsuccessful. Got a zero delay pcb on way. Not sure of brand. Pics as well when the install starts.

1st attempt w xbox 360 dpad.

Currently making joystick harness.

We have left input!
As well as all other inputs.
Thanks for the communication and advice again.