I have the chance to pick up a VX SA for a fair price. I dont have much interest in modding. Is there any reason to pay more for a madcatz or is it good enough?
Anyone out there know the specific connector that is used for connecting the joystick to the pcb. It looks like a typical 5 pin PCB header connector but what type (I don’t have the stick yet it is due to be delivered next week).
I am however about to order the parts to do a stickless conversion and would rather not have to unsolder the board an hard wire as I may find i want to put the stick back in if I can’t get on with the stick less design. I’m in the UK so can probably pick the connector up from Maplin (UK equivalent of Radio Shack).
I know blklightning21 sells stickless wriring harnesses for the VX but it starts to become a bit expensive to order all the parts from the US what with postage and then Customs duties.
Oh and for the last question is there a specic tool for crimping the connectors used for connecting the wires to this type of connector.
As ever any help appreciated
JST PH Series Connector.
The Header (HRAP PCB side) is B5B-PH-K-S.
The Housing (Joystick connecting to HRAP PCB side) is PHR-5.
The Contacts (to crimp wires for the Housing) is SPH-002T-P0.5S being.
Then all you need is $200-400 Crimper Tool.
Well that’s a pain in the ass, thanks for the info JDM
I’m guessing that crimping the contacts without the tool doesn’t work very well so any helpful suggestions on the best way to do the stick less mod in a way that is easily reversible would be great.
Since you do not want to buy from blklightning21.
Someone else also sells a conversion that connects to the original harness.
I do not remember where to get it.
Or you do your own in the way of rtdzign.
Stick wires into the connector.
Crimp on Quick Disconnects.
You can do elaborate like rtdzign also.
That is why nobody’s answering your question in the thread…
Your answer is in the FAQ.
Thanks again JDM your posts are always helpful
It’s not that I don’t want to, I might still buy the parts from blklightning21 as he is helpful, the parts look good and he has a good reputation so that isn’t a worry. Its damned international postage cost and import duties that makes it unappealing (all of which are outside of mine and blklightning21’s control).
If I were going to order parts from the US then I would get the top plate, Lexan and wire harness to make the shipping worth while. This is just under $60 excluding shipping which I thinkis a more than fair price.
However on my recent orders from the US I have always been caught by import duty equivalent to our VAT rate of 20% (total now $72). You then also have to pay the ridiculous handling charge for the parcel company to “organise” and settle the customs duties on “my” behalf last time this was £13.50 (total now $92.50).
So £60 ($92.50) without international shipping starts to be a bit high and I think most people would agree. Therefore I’m trying to work out how to get this done with locally sourced parts in case I find I really don’t like the stickless design and have sunk circa £68.25 ($105) into it which is nearly 2/3 of the price of stock V3.
I’m going to wait for the V3 to arrive then take a look at the best way forward for me. I will let you know how I get on and post some pictures of the finished result assuming it doesn’t look to rough that is
hey guys im a noob here but i just baught a recieved my HRAP V3 Blazblue Extend edition stick yes its full sanwa, was wondering what mods would look good on it, and i cant decide what would look good on it, TBH the stocks looks good as it is. ive check lizardlick for custom buttons and balls for the stick but none really match the stick itself with its color and art. what are your thoughts? picture here:
my hori RAP stick died on me awhile ago. the pcb just failed.
so now i’m replacing the pcb with a madcatz controller pcb.
but i cannot find the screws to mount the button plate and the the screws to mount the sanwa stick.
do you guys know the size of the screws that i need to replace???
M4 x 9mm for attaching a JLF with a Mounting Plate to the HORI Mounting Bracket.
thanks alot for the instant response.
wondering about the bottom mounting plate for the enclosure though :S
So giddy I’m getting a lexan cover from blk!
The graphic on the stick is scratching with white marks now, and there’s a visible bulge on the lower-right part, indicating it’s not holding up well underneath.
Does the ps3 version of this stick work with pc as well?
How do you stop the Sanwa snap ins from spinning when you put them back in. The only way I can see is to wrap some tape round them to increase their diameter slightly and cut it away where the snap in tabs are, am I missing something?
Here are the pics. this is the current stick i use so i couldnt take out all the internals but i try to get shots that let you see the highest button holesand the lowest button hole
Works dandy. No drivers required. I also love the fact that the PS3 version has a switch for the left stick because some games only accept one input or the other (LS/XY Axis or DP/POV hat)
Just bought a VX SA (the ugly brother of the V3 SA). This would be my 5th store-bought stick, and my 2nd Hori. Really like it, will add custom art once the original gets damaged or wears out.
This is a great thread, btw. Wealth of information for this stick. Tech Talk @ Shoryuken being awesome, as always.
Just got my hrap vx sa for my 360.
Can anybody hook me up with a template so I can make my stick purty?
Plus, anyone here in chicago do mods? I’d swap the buttons and ball top myself, but i’m
afraid that I’d somehow screw it up.
Plus, has anyone painted their stick? Mine’s all white and would rather paint it another color.
Any help/suggestions/advice would be amazing.
Thermomurder, these fine folks sell plexi covers and print artwork for the VX SA. They also have templates available on their site.
And changing stuff inside is simple since they have quick disconnects. As far as painting, there are guides on here for painting sticks. Seems to be people either use vinyl dye or krylon fusion.
Good luck finding vinyl dye!
They just don’t sell it in regular stores. You’d have to special order it. AutoExpress, Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart – the usual suspects – don’t carry this type of paint.
Krylon fusion and Rustoleum spray paints (for plastic) are available all over the place but people have had mixed results with them. Fact is, a lot of people forget to use clear coat over their paint; they also take the finished sticks to tournament where you are guaranteed to have the best mix of sweat and fluids which is not good for surface paints.
My best stick-painting has been with Dupli-Color but it isn’t true vinyl dye even if it says “fabric and vinyl dye” on the can. It’s another surface coater. It also needs a clear-coat for best results.
One thing to be careful with any on of these paints is to let them dry for at least a day. If you can manage two days drying, better. You want them dry before you clear-coat. The clear-coat can interact with wet paint and cause some bad things to happen ==> mainly plastic melt.
I had this happen to me with the last Agetec VMU holder I painted. Good thing I found out quickly and minimized the damage.