Here is my Hori Tekken 6 Wireless JLF-TP-8Y Mod/Guide/Work log, this was done on a 360 version but should be the same for PS3 too.
Lets start by removing the original stick, there is no mod of any kind done to the whole top half of the disassembled case/parts.
The original 4 holes in the JLF base are already correctly centered over the 4 plastic mounting posts on the top panel(seen above), but the post are too wide, the idea here is to allow the base to sit flush with the top panel(gaining over half of the necessary mounting height clearance needed for this mod), and this is achieved by boring the holes out slightly.
Below is the disassembled base of a JLF-TP-8Y joystick with 4 holes bored out as noted, note these holes already existed, they just need to be made bigger. I started w/ a 1/4" bit, I hand turned these with the bit in the drill very slowly for the material removal, the plastic is soft and was no effort to do it by hand, once the bit had removed bulk of the material, I then used the drill on high speed to clean it out. 1/4" was not large enough, so I moved to 9/32" as 5/16" was a smidge too big. Again I hand turned the material out with this bit, then used the drill once I had got the bit all the way through. This was still barely not enough, so w/ the 9/32" bit all the way through the hole, I *wobbled the bit a little bit for just a tiny bit larger hole. This was then sufficient. NOTE you need to be extra careful on the two sides w/o the extra plastic/mounts as there is little material/room for error on the outside albeit if done correctly there is plenty of material left over to sufficiently maintain the integrity of the part/functionality.
You must also remove the extra mounting holes/excess plastic from 2 sides. I used a large pair of Dikes to cut off most of the material, then ground down the rest fairly easily.
Now you are able to mount the base flush as seen in the following pics:
Next you have to mod the gate, this will be the exact same on a square or octagonal gate. I used a 7/64" drill bit for these and they still required me to wobble the bits a little, you may get by w/ a 1/8" bit better. This allows us to use the original stick mounting screws to go though the gate then through holes in the switches (where protruding pieces of plastic were on the gate that got removed when the holes were drilled into the gate) and finally into the stock white mounting posts.
Next we must grind the shaft down, I used a rather low speed cordless cheapo rotary tool w/ a metal grinding bit. Remove just enough material so the the slot used for tightening the ball top with a flat screw driver is no longer present. You may also like to slightly round the edge also.
Now you can assemble the JLF into the upper half of the case.
You can see there is plenty of material remaining to ensure the integrity of the retention C-Clip.
Here are a couple shots to give you an idea of the height clearance Ive now achieved:
Lastly, I removed some material from the bottom panel of the case.
I used a sanding bit, and metal and plastic grinding bits for this.
I removed the rib flush, the used a black marker on the bottom of the shaft, affixed the bottom plate and moved the stick around to mark the contact areas on the bottom panel. I removed some material and repeated, at first I thought I was fine, sitting flat on the table the shaft no longer made any contact. I then put it in my lap and quickly realized there was some slight flex in the bottom panel when resting where the shaft sits (on my leg), I ground out a little more material and retested. PERFECTO!!! Even when purposely trying to flex the bottom of the case(with my thumb right at the critical area) to rub the shaft I still had full clearance. Note though width wise you dont have to remove as much material as seen here, prolly a cirlce 1/2 this size. I prolly only removed 1/3 fo the 1/4" of plastic used here if that depth wise.
Here you can see how much higher the JLF sits from a standard mounting. Keep in mind, my goal here was to replace a shitty stock stick with a superb and unmodified(functionality wise) JLF. I understand that some purists might cry foul with this maybe 10mm of extra height, but I have 2 SF4 TE’s dual modded for tourney play, this is for some JLF lovin action on the wireless tip as simply as possible, and the alternative to get this mounted at the proper stick height is a prohibitively difficult/expensive mod for a non tourney usable wireless stick which would involve creating a spacer between the top of the case and the bottom plate along with extra work to accommodate the battery bay.
And finally some fully assembled shots:
Qustions or comments welcome.