Hori Tekken 6 Wireless JLF Install Mod/Guide (Pics!)


#1

Here is my Hori Tekken 6 Wireless JLF-TP-8Y Mod/Guide/Work log, this was done on a 360 version but should be the same for PS3 too.

Lets start by removing the original stick, there is no mod of any kind done to the whole top half of the disassembled case/parts.

The original 4 holes in the JLF base are already correctly centered over the 4 plastic mounting posts on the top panel(seen above), but the post are too wide, the idea here is to allow the base to sit flush with the top panel(gaining over half of the necessary mounting height clearance needed for this mod), and this is achieved by boring the holes out slightly.

Below is the disassembled base of a JLF-TP-8Y joystick with 4 holes bored out as noted, note these holes already existed, they just need to be made bigger. I started w/ a 1/4" bit, I hand turned these with the bit in the drill very slowly for the material removal, the plastic is soft and was no effort to do it by hand, once the bit had removed bulk of the material, I then used the drill on high speed to clean it out. 1/4" was not large enough, so I moved to 9/32" as 5/16" was a smidge too big. Again I hand turned the material out with this bit, then used the drill once I had got the bit all the way through. This was still barely not enough, so w/ the 9/32" bit all the way through the hole, I *wobbled the bit a little bit for just a tiny bit larger hole. This was then sufficient. NOTE you need to be extra careful on the two sides w/o the extra plastic/mounts as there is little material/room for error on the outside albeit if done correctly there is plenty of material left over to sufficiently maintain the integrity of the part/functionality.

You must also remove the extra mounting holes/excess plastic from 2 sides. I used a large pair of Dikes to cut off most of the material, then ground down the rest fairly easily.

Now you are able to mount the base flush as seen in the following pics:

Next you have to mod the gate, this will be the exact same on a square or octagonal gate. I used a 7/64" drill bit for these and they still required me to wobble the bits a little, you may get by w/ a 1/8" bit better. This allows us to use the original stick mounting screws to go though the gate then through holes in the switches (where protruding pieces of plastic were on the gate that got removed when the holes were drilled into the gate) and finally into the stock white mounting posts.

Next we must grind the shaft down, I used a rather low speed cordless cheapo rotary tool w/ a metal grinding bit. Remove just enough material so the the slot used for tightening the ball top with a flat screw driver is no longer present. You may also like to slightly round the edge also.

Now you can assemble the JLF into the upper half of the case.
You can see there is plenty of material remaining to ensure the integrity of the retention C-Clip.

Here are a couple shots to give you an idea of the height clearance Ive now achieved:

Lastly, I removed some material from the bottom panel of the case.
I used a sanding bit, and metal and plastic grinding bits for this.
I removed the rib flush, the used a black marker on the bottom of the shaft, affixed the bottom plate and moved the stick around to mark the contact areas on the bottom panel. I removed some material and repeated, at first I thought I was fine, sitting flat on the table the shaft no longer made any contact. I then put it in my lap and quickly realized there was some slight flex in the bottom panel when resting where the shaft sits (on my leg), I ground out a little more material and retested. PERFECTO!!! Even when purposely trying to flex the bottom of the case(with my thumb right at the critical area) to rub the shaft I still had full clearance. Note though width wise you dont have to remove as much material as seen here, prolly a cirlce 1/2 this size. I prolly only removed 1/3 fo the 1/4" of plastic used here if that depth wise.

Here you can see how much higher the JLF sits from a standard mounting. Keep in mind, my goal here was to replace a shitty stock stick with a superb and unmodified(functionality wise) JLF. I understand that some purists might cry foul with this maybe 10mm of extra height, but I have 2 SF4 TE’s dual modded for tourney play, this is for some JLF lovin action on the wireless tip as simply as possible, and the alternative to get this mounted at the proper stick height is a prohibitively difficult/expensive mod for a non tourney usable wireless stick which would involve creating a spacer between the top of the case and the bottom plate along with extra work to accommodate the battery bay.

And finally some fully assembled shots:

Qustions or comments welcome.
Thx
Archalien


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#2

Thank you for this confirmation.
I knew a Sanwa JLF can be modded to go into Wireless Tekken 6.
This is just same installation as HORI Fighting Stick 3 and HORI Fighting Stick EX2.

You can mount the JLF like how faux123 did.
http://www.canonspike.com/Canon_Spike!/Joystick_Mods/Entries/2009/2/28_Hori_Wii_to_Sanwa_PS3_wireless_Total_Conversion.html

He did put a drill to make those holes bigger.
But he did not go through all the way like you did.

Installing like faux123 would allow for putting on Restrictor Gate without drilling through it.
The Restrictor Gate just clips on and off like normal.
Just the JLF Base be screwed into Case.


#3

Very good tutorial!
However, I think that your shaft cover for the JLF stick is on upside down.


#4

Yes, that is true.
The Shaft Cover is upside-down.

You have the wider end at the top. :blush:


#5

Why didn’t you use the stock shaft & actuator?


#6

Hey thank you very much for this :smiley: I’ll be sure to use it.


#7

I used this gate mod on previous hori mods to add octagonal gate to stock base and switches, drilling through is easier than countersinking the boring bit, plus you can reuse the stock retention screws, although you lose the ability to tool-less swap the gate, 6 of one-half dozen of the other…While I think my option of modding the jlf rather that removing the structural ribbing around the base to be the superior approach.


#8

Yes, I don’t modify Case.
I modify the JLF.

So I’m with you on cutting off those tab on the JLF Base.
It is what I have done before.

I just wanted to know what you thought of faux123’s way of not drilling completely through the holes.
Do not have to necessarily cut the rib if want to not drill all way through hole.

And drilling through the Restrictor Gate is done for installing onto stock Hori Joystick, yes.

No problem man.
Jangofatt installed Sanwa JLF the EXACT as you.
http://pineconeattack.com/2009/03/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-ex2hori-wii-fighting-stick-with-actual-sanwa-joystick-and-buttons/

Thank you for your response.


#9

Is there some sort of benefit to installing the entire JLF? I think it’s just fine to part it out and use the microswitches and spring, and maybe octogate (if you’re into them.) I couldn’t really feel a difference. I modified my stock HORI FS3 joystick with Cherry Switches and an LS-32 spring, and it feels wonderful. There’s nothing wrong with the rest of the stock HORI joyststick.


#10

Well I didnt realize it was even possible, I though the pcb sat flush at the point where his screw heads are, I had to double look at an uninstalled stick to see the clearance existed there. All things being equal I think Id still use use my approach for the simple fact that there is a somewhat small margin of error on that countersink especially if you dont have a proper setup (drill press w/ depth guide and a jig for the base etc or the like. Im not in the habit of needing to swith out gate’s post install so I dont really lose that much.

I dont know why Jangofatt removed the gate clips in that last link, they are not a height clearance isse as far as I can tell, they become redundant w/ the screws, but it seems like an unecessary step for me. That said, I hadnt even gotten into the electrical yet, I wasnt sure if the T6 stick used(could be wired like) common ground, that pcb mod Jangofatt did may come in handy thx.

BTW I never realized the shaft cover was polarized hahaha, I just assumed it was uniform. I wonder if I put that seimitsu shaft Jangofatt used would retain remaining jlf functionality while lovering the balltop to a more correct height(although it would still be off height from top of case/hand).


#11

Jangofatt used the stock Hori Shaft, not Seimitsu.
HisNameIsL mentioned why you not use Hori Shaft.

People have used Hori Shaft with Hori Actuator in Sanwa JLF before.

I have not read any problems with doing the swap.
But for some reason, when I tried it, I had problem happen.

Try it out and see how it is.
See if you get any weirdness.

I’m not sure why Jangofatt cut off those clip things either.
Laugh.

Other people installed JLF into HORI Fighting Stick without cutting off.


#12

When i did my latest Hori EX2 mod, i thought of the idea of drilling out the holes on the JLF myself. And originally i was going to do it like faux, and not drill completely though, but i didnt control the dill enough on a couple of em, and went though anyways. i think that drilling all the way though might be a better choice, since it will guarantee a flush install, and you dont risk the screws interfering with any of the other JLF components.

I also used a Hori Shaft to get the proper height.


#13

Thank you for your input archalien and dav3yb.
For my next mod, I will try out the installation by drilling all the way.

It is good to have various ways to see which works, and make flexible if something happens.

There was a mod that faux123 did before, and he accidentally drilled through.
He put in washers before screwing the JLF Base to Case.

http://www.canonspike.com/Canon_Spike!/Joystick_Mods/Entries/2009/2/28_Hori_EX2_Sanwa_Upgrade_files/3314193407_2edf6a4c5c_b.jpg

Image by faux123 from http://www.canonspike.com/Canon_Spike!/Joystick_Mods/Entries/2009/2/28_Hori_EX2_Sanwa_Upgrade.html site.

Sorry for typing so much in your Thread archalien.
Laugh.


#14

does the extra ~10mm of shaft height noticeably change the feel? I don’t think I’ve ever played on a stick that far out of spec.


#15

Does it change the feel, yes, but prolly not how you would think. its not so much that the height of the stick is the issue but that the distance between the stick fulcrum/pivot point is closer to your hand. Is it different, yes, 10mm difference ehh not tooo much, is it still a million times better than what was stock, yes!!! Will it make a difference in your ability to play a game, unless your like a top 25 or maybe top 50 evo player, not that much most likely.

@jdm714: dude no worries, thats why I posted the thread was for knowledge dissemination and conversation/debate. thx for participating!!!


#16

I was eye balling it and it didn’t look like it was going to fit. I later found out, I just added a few more unnecessary steps.

Oh well. :razz:

Edit: Now when I converted my X360 Hori EX2 into a PS3 stick, I added a Sanwa and left the clips intact but for some strange reason I had to cut a tiny hole in the metal base because of grinding.


#17

Oh.
Laugh.

That is cool to know your reason.
Thank you for your response Jangofatt.


#18

Thanks for the tutorial. looks nice. Might just give this a try.


#19

You could probably do the same with an LS-32 I’m assuming? If you go that route, you’d be able to actually mount that one to spec, since it can be directly mounted due to the short height of the stick.


#20

I just got finished with the same mod as well, here’s mine:

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/6840/t6afterinside1.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9268/t6afterfront1.jpg