Hori VLX PS3 and 360 PCB Signals!





Hey just wanted to point out that on the xbox 360 pcb, Guide is one spot higher. It is the third from the bottom in that group rather than the second, according to a multimeter test I just did.

Updated pic:


I’m glad you made that correction rtdzign, it worked for modding it with a Chimp. I have one problem though…I rearranged the wiring on the 360 stick so it had default buttons but when i tried it on the PS3 i had to switch the wires back for default to work. Is there a wiring solution for this?

Not sure what you mean. I rearranged my VLX to a TE layout and did it the same as usual.

But have you tried it on both systems with the new arrangement?

I figured it out…using your diagram on the 360 picture. I had to rearrange five buttons so i wouldn’t have to do any button config on the two systems.

Before i modded the 360 vlx i rearranged the buttons for the default layout. Then i modded it following the Chimp instructions and your diagram. But when i plugged it into the PS3 with the wires rearranged it didn’t work right. So, I moved five wires that needed to be changed. From top to bottom the new list I came up with is:


I compared the two layouts of the VLX versions and noticed the differences. The Hori layout on the 360 is all messed up, but on the PS3 its fine. This seemed to work for me, but maybe you found another way.

Now I just realized a new problem. The guide button works on the 360 but not on the PS3

Found it…I counted third from the wrong side. It’s really number 5 on the 1-7 pins

Yeah before I did the mod I said “Fuck M$” shitty layout and reaaranged the quick disconnects like so>


I am disregarding the button lables because the MS layout is horribly retarded.

If you want to have a clue on what I did for my VLX it is here, but the wiring is horribly sloppy, but was done in a way that is easy to fix despite being messy.

I opted to use screw terminals and tapped signals directly to the Default quick disconnects. No warranty voiding, you can see my warranty sticker is still intact.

I said to hell with the warranty so it could be cleaner wiring. I saw this post earlier. Did you figure out your problem with the 360 thing?

adding to watched threads for later

Just did mine w/ a chimp. Everything works great but no home on ps3. I used the 3rd spot like it says up above. Any ideas?

I know its labeled pin number 5 where there is a set of 7 pins together

sorry if this question doesnt relate to the thread but i was just wondering… how do u guys know what stands for which button? i want to start building my own custom stick or atleast buy something crappy and mod it into a multi-console stick so i am really interested in how u guys learned how to understand all of the PCB’s and soldering etc. etc.

Check out slagcoin.com on PCB and wiring
and then read the thread in my current signature.

As far as electronics hacking a PCB for an arcade stick is kind of dirt simple to grasp.

A basic electrical circuit looks like this:

The area where the connection is broken is a switch. It is normally open, preventing electricity from flowing through the circuit; the circuit is broken. If you close the switch, it closes the circuit, causing electricity to flow and the bulb to light.

Each button in a joystick contains a switch that is normally open like this. When you press the button it closes the switch. The switch has two terminals; one connecting to Ground, which is shared by all of the buttons, and one connecting to Signal, which is just for that particular button. When you press the button, closing the switch, it connects the common Ground to the Signal for that button, causing an electrical signal to be generated that indicates to the board that this specific button was pressed.

There is a tool called a continuity tester that allows you to test whether two points in a circuit are connected or not. You can find them standalone but a continuity test is usually a function on a multimeter, which does other things too. They are very useful for padhacking and similar work.

If you were to turn on the continuity test feature of your multimeter, then connect the two leads to the ends of a single strand of wire, it should beep (or otherwise activate) to let you know that these two points are connected. If you put a switch in the middle of the wire, it should only beep when the switch is closed. The same goes for a button on an arcade stick.

With the leads of the multimeter connected to each terminal of the button’s switch, nothing should happen, but if you press the button, it closes the switch and the multimeter should buzz away.

Since one terminal of the button is connected to common Ground, and this common Ground is a shared circuit between all of the buttons, you should be able to find Ground by touching the multimeter leads to each button’s switches until you find two that beep without having any buttons pressed. You have found Ground, and each button should have a terminal that beeps when you touch it to another Ground on another button.

The other terminal on each of these buttons is Signal, and this should not normally be connected to any of the other buttons. If you were to touch Signal on one button, and Ground on another button, you would not get a beep until you press the first button down, which would cause that Signal to be connected to the Ground circuit.

Where that Signal does always connect is somewhere on the PCB. With no buttons pressed, and one multimeter lead on the button’s Signal, you should be able to use the other multimeter lead to find a contact point on the PCB that beeps. Do the same for each button, and you should find their contact points also. Usually these will be in an organized cluster somewhere on the board, hopefully somewhere that is easy to solder to. Use the same method to find Ground on the PCB.

Hope that helps. :smile:

what a way to take this thread into a whole different direction.

I feel confused when I’m on tech talk

I hope this helps. Thanks Rtdzign for the correction! :stuck_out_tongue:

So I’m about to Dual Mod this bad boy - could the OP tell me if the picture of the Xbox PCB Signals are updated with the corrections people have pointed out in this thread? Or should I assume the picture is not up to date and follow each post with corrections in order lol. thanks if OP can say so.

Not corrected. Guide should be one above that.

alright cool thanks