How do I get rid of the "snap action" in a microswitch


I want to be able to control the cross point contact without the snap action of a microswitch… the activation force of the switch doesnt really matter. the reason I want this is so that it speeds up the reaction time of rapid button presses.
For instance if you open a regular “levered” microswitch so that you can see mechanism inside you’ll notice that if you push the plunger really slower snape action mechanism that occurs when the crosspoint contact connects to the bottom terminal. It also snaps back to the top terminal when you slowly release the plunger. Its that snapping mechanism that I’m trying to eliminate, and I need to figure out how to.


If you can’t feel the difference between happ and sanwa/seimitsu switches I’m not entirely sure what to tell you.

That said, you can try playing with spring stiffness and plunger travel.


No, I can definitely feel the difference… I love sanwa buttons. I’m talking about Microswitches for my sticks… i dont think i’ve ever used sanwa switches on an arcade stick, besides how they feel how do they physically differ to Happ Switches?


you want something that goes to neutral/off the fastest from what i understand…?


yes… kinda… fastest from active to off and back to active, without being stuck on active.




Huh, how could you not feel the difference from low force actuation vs high? They’re completely different.

Anyway, the way basic snap action microswitches are designed, they don’t really get stuck on actuated. The only way this would happen is if you have an over sized actuator mod on your stick that keeps them pressed in active too long. Spring based micros like Cherry and Zippy or the design of switches like Omron and Matsushita aren’t going to be stuck in active anytime soon, lol. There’s really no physical difference in operation other than springs vs a little metal plate that creates tension instead of a switch.

Look at how you’re playing. There is absolutely no way you should be getting stuck in directions unless you’re doing something wrong. In a JLF, with its huge throw, there really has to be something you’re doing in your play or a mod you did incorrectly to your stick, those are the only two answers to what’s happening. Or, a sticky switch that’s getting stuck, but that’s a mechanical issue and would be a different symptom all together.


I can feel the physical difference but it doesnt make a difference when i play ST. there’s a difference between high and low, but not so much with medium vs low.

yes, to put it that way what i’m looking for is a microswitch that deactivates really quickly… I think the quicker it activates the longer it takes the plunger to deactivate. The Sanwa’s seem to be what i’m looking for.


I was gonna recommend the HBFS-30s with their Cherry keyboard microswitches, then I realized the OP was talking about sticks/levers and not buttons.


are they better than sanwa buttons?


he said plunger, how was i supposed to know. description could have been applied to both levers and buttons. next time please clarify. levers, or buttons. again, levers. buttons. easy words.


i clarified that in my second post. all microswitches have plungers.


ok i need a microswitch that only activates when the plunger is fully pressed down and deactivates instantly on release, and it doesnt have to be microswitch doesnt have to be a microswitch with a lever (i’m using a euro suzo stick).


I don’t quite understand, first we’re talking sticks and then go off topic on buttons. If you’re looking for quick activation switches for a stick you’re SOL. Switches in sticks are switches in sticks, they’re all mostly the same.

Buttons is another story. However, the only way you can get a Japanese button to snap back to neutral faster is by eliminating the throw in the button. You may want to look into silencer pads, such as the ones Paradise Arcade sells because they have a variety of thickness.

What exactly are you looking to improve in buttons, now that you seem to be on the subject of them? The difference in switches for buttons is pretty minimal as far as the speed of going back to neutral is concerned. If you’re having problems with buttons being active too long then your touch is too heavy, you’ll need to use your fingers different. For example, instead of keeping your finger on the surface of the button all the time, try snapping your finger off the surface of the button quickly.


The Cherries used in the HBFS-30s are the same as the ones used in mechanical keyboards. Depending on the type (you can tell by color), they all have different properties. You can read this for reference.


nothing, i’m only concerned about sticks. i went off topic because i thought my microswitch question had been addressed. I only realised it hadnt when hiba realised he made a mistake.

so microswitch buttons are really that much faster than microswitches in sticks?


Perhaps you should look into optical boards for your joystick like a Toodles Spark or Rollies replica of the Sanwa Flash


Simple confusion based on equivocal usage of the word “plunger”. TC, a plunger can refer both to the actuator on a microswitch (like the ones on your happ stick), but it also refers to the top part of an arcade button (the part your fingers interact with).

Try the gated switches Seimitsu use in their LS-32s. Think they’re Matsushitas, but can’t recall the model (hibachifinal will know this :slight_smile: ).

These deactivate much more quickly than switches that only have a bare plunger actuator, so you’ll definitely notice an improvement.


The LS-32 is cross-compatible with this Omron model
and the Zippyy long-arm microswitch

BTW, Paradise Shop sells the light-touch Zippyy in a pack of four as a silent mod kit for the LS-32/Zippyy classic joysticks. does sell the LS-32 microswitches individually but it’s pointless to buy them that way if you’re using the -01 (PCB) version of the LS-32. You’re better off buying the #15 Substrate ASSY (PCB with soldered in microswitches). With microswitches, when one switch gets worn down you replace them all at the same time just like you would batteries in an electronic device like a remote – you replace all at the same regardless of the model of the LS-32 you own. Microswitches might not wear evenly but you start over with replacement parts, even (unused) wear level. You can’t rotate these like car tires… :slight_smile:

The microswitches in the other LS-series joysticks are levered as well, too, but different models/builds from the switches used in the LS-32.


What make are the gated switches used in the Seimitsu LS-32s?