How to get Perfect 360 to work on PS1 pad?

heys, how do most of you get a perfect 360 joystick to work on a PS1 pcb?

i could have sworn there was a topic here before but can’t find jack

can someone verify what the voltage is on a PS1 pad and how to get the correct 5 volts need for the perfect 360?

also is there a way to lets say run a battery inline with the 3.3v from the ps1 pcb to get the necessary 5volts for the p360?

thanks guys! :bgrin:

you wanna get a dc-dc upstep

itll take the 3.3v’s and kick it up to 5vs

If you’re going to just use the p360 joystick for lets say… Marvel on the DC then you wont need that step up converter. Toodles wrote in the dual pcb thread that if you have a dc converter that the converter supplies the psx pcb with a constant +5v.

I wired up a p360 to a standard ps1 digital pad (the original ones) and it worked fine on the PS2 and through a convertor on the PC when I tested it.

I don’t remember which points off hand were the ground and 3.3v, but I’ll look for the link.

i just did one but for the neg+pos i had to use a battery tray. 4 x AA for the win!

PS2 system or slim has a USB is 5 volt. it’s work for p360.

you need seperate wire connector ps2 pad and UBS

UBS connector wire red is 5v and black is ground com.

3.3 in

5 out


the stick works perfectly on 3.3V u dont need that converter

thats fockin dope!!! gotta try that out :bgrin:

thanks for all the advice peeps

for the most part gonna be playin the P360 on ps2 console games

man i ordered two of these baby’s!

has anybody else tried these out??

Okay, so i’ve been following p360s for a while

the older non-grinding wico/happ 360s work perfectly fine on the 3.3v line of the ps1 pad.

the newer, grindier, shittier, happ 360s do NOT work fine on the 3.3v line. some of the directions don’t respond at all. however on a 5v line, they work a-ok.

I haven’t tried using a dc-dc step up converter, please let me know how it goes.

will do, got two on the way

also just recently did a ps1 pcb hack with a P360 joystick. check the voltage and the pcb is putting out 3.6 volts, guess it varies amongst ps1 pcbs due to the VCC. man VCC sucks monkey balls! anyways old mas pcbs also use VCC, they suck too.

so far everything is running well off the 3.6 volts

I read somewhere that using the 3.3v from a ps1 pad will work, but it wears out the joystick faster. Any OG’s out there that have had their p360’s wired to a normal ps1 pcb for a long ass time without problems? (2yrs+)

The reason i’m asking is, I’ve got 2 of the old wico/happ ones and one of them is wired to a ps1 pad normally, and I’m fixing to change my stick around and figured i could add in a step up converter while i’m at it if it’ll prolong the life of my stick. I imagine by the time these start to fail, it’ll be impossible to replace them (if it isn’t now haha) and for the extra $20 it seems worth it.

^A friend of mine has a P360 using 3.3v from a PS1 pad and has had it hooked up that way for at least 3 years and it works perfectly. Now I am not sure if it is a Wico P360 or not but it feels great and has never missed a directional or crapped out in any way.

I just had an idea. Why not use the rumble motor line that supplies like 7.6volts and step it down using a simple 7805 chip. That is way cheaper and will give you a constant 5v.

Just connect the P360 voltage (+5V) to the psx red wire.

I’ve done tons of them and they have all worked for me. Dual shock and PSX.

I have like 3 p360s that wont work on just the 3.3-3.6 that the pad provides. LAME

It doesn’t give you a constant 5v. The controller only powers the rumble motors when the game indicates that a rumble function is activated. So basically, you can only move the controller when you’re hit or moving over rocky terrain or some shit.

Example, tested out on marvelvscapcom2 for the PS2.
Character A hits character B, rumble is on, it sends a VERY weak rumble signal and while there is power, it’s really really weak. Since a jab when equating to a rumble, isn’t very strong. When Character A does a Super Combo on Character B, then it sends the entire voltage, however much it is. I didn’t have a multimeter, but I did have a battery tester and the super combo sent it all the way to the end of the green bar.