How to go about LED Modding a MCZ TE?


Sorry if this has been asked before, but from a search query all of the posts/topics seem to be at least 2 years old, so I have no idea what the scenario is nowadays on LED modding a TE.

So the question: How do I do this? From what information I’ve collected it seems I have to get a LED PCB board, and then the LED lights themselves. That’s about all I know though… anyone experienced in this field? Me and a friend are planning to LED mod his stick.


Well are you just want lights for the buttons, ball top and buttons lit, do you want cycling colors and other effects?
Your asking kinda generalized question, and it help if we know what you had in mind?


Just the buttons. The LED’s just need to turn on when they’re being pressed. It’d be interesting to have different colours to turn on when LP/LK and MP/MK are pressed, as well as LP MP HP/ LK MK HK. But since we’re trying to do this ourselves, if that’s too difficult we can scrap that…


The Kaimana LED board won Tech Talk Product of the Year for 2013. Check out the thread here -->

You can get it from here -->
6 button (Doge) kit:
11 button kit:

There are also other solutions for LED lighting.

Remora (and ArcEye LEDs):
SRK thread: Remora Official Thread - RGB LED control for MadCatz FightSticks
Get it here:

SRK thread: Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread
Get it here:

Uila LEDs:
Pele LEDs:


Could I use the Pele LEDs with the Sparky? With 30 mm Screw in Seimitsus …


Pele LEDs are designed for Screw Ins.


Pele are actually designed as universal LEDs. They work with snap and screw buttons. You can use them with a Sparky.


Totals to about $50 without shipping/handling… damn, that’s steep lol. Then throw in the buttons, which is another like $25. I bought my stick for $80… haha

Is there an installation guide for the Sparky? I’ve no idea how to do any of this stuff (glad there’s no soldering involved)


This is about as close to your plans as you are likely going to get to what you are planning on doing–>
Video by @nerrage:

For the price, the Kaimana setup isn’t far off for a 6 button kit. If you wanted all 8 main buttons you would just need 2 more J LED’s and two more short harnesses. This kit is top of the line for arcade stick LED lighting. There is a whole hell of a lot more info and support for the Kaimana at this point as well. Might save you some headaches.


The Kaimana kit is $55 for the board, + the LEDs, + the buttons… will definitely go over $100. Not sure if I want to dish out a new stick’s worth of money for an LED mod haha.


$55 for the 6 button kit which includes LEDs for 6 buttons and all necessary harnesses. Then you need 2 more J LEDs (+/-$7 USD) and 2 3" harnesses (+/-$1 USD). Grand total shouldn’t be more than $75 USD with shipping. Granted, you will also need buttons but you get much more for your money with the Kaimana.


Ahhh I see. Not bad.

Gonna get a plexi cover first though. Planning to get a black plexi, etch something cool on it… get black plunger/translucent rim buttons, and then program the LED’s to flash yellow. Black and Yellow mod :smiley:

BY THE WAY: This is off topic, but since we are talking about mod-related things, does anyone know of a good way to paint the side panels of my TE black? I really want an all black stick and these white panels are getting in the way of that :stuck_out_tongue:


Get Krylon Fusion or something similar. They’re made for painting plastics.


I prefer Vinyl Dye over Krylon


Whats the closest to the matte black paint on the TE round 1?


exact color match would be hard, even with Black.

Paint sits on top on the material and vinyl dye tends to soak in.
For paint, the paint needs to specify being matte to have a matte finish.
Vinyl dye as its a dye rather than a true paint will keep what ever surface the original plastic has.


So Vinyl might be better, no?


Yes, but vinyl dye doesn’t seem to be all that common everywhere anymore. I for one can’t find any in my area (Montreal, Canada).

On the flipside, even if you paint it glossy black, you can always clearcoat it with a matte finish clear, so it might get to an acceptable level of finish like the rest of the TE. But your mileage may vary, and you’d basically be experimenting with it yourself.


If it doesn’t turn out well, is there a good way of removing the paint?


You can technically use solvents to remove paint, but chances are that it might affect or damage the plastic underneath.
The best practice for removing paint is to wait for it to dry, and sand it off.

But it’s like it’s always said in all model-building forums: always test on a scrap piece first to see if it’s to your liking.