I’ve been telling people on IRC that I’d do this, so here I am.
I will post pictures in a little bit. This guide is incomplete until those pictures are here.
EDIT: I’m tired and need to do some work. I’ll finish this tomorrow!
-Madcatz 4716 2008/2009 Pad
-Desoldering Equipment (Braid, Solder Sucker, your preferred method)
-Flux (optional, but recommended)
-Solid and/or Stranded Wire (I personally use 24 AWG solid and 26 AWG Stranded)
-Small Phillips Head Screwdriver (I don’t know the exact size)
-Scissors and/or Diagonal Cutters
-Pliers (optional, helpful)
-Hot Glue (optional, required if you’re NOT doing triggers)
-Multimeter (optional, great for testing)
-Time (Goes without saying)
Most everything listed up here is available at radio shack. You might have to look elsewhere for hot glue.
If you’re doing the triggers:
-74HCT14/74HCT04 Hex Inverter Chip (more varieties will work, I personally used 74HCT14)
-2 10k Ohm Resistors (1/4 watt is fine)
-Electrical Tape (not necessary, I used it though)
Everything here is also available at Radio Shack, except the Hex Inverter Chips. I got mine HERE
I’ve heard THIS place is cheaper.
Skills Required (Honestly, this is ALL it takes):
-Basic Reading Skills
-Basic Soldering Experience (If you don’t have this, go to radioshack, get some solid wire, get a perfboard, get solder and an iron, then practice!! It’s honestly not that hard.)
Step 1: Obtain Madcatz 4716 2008/2009 Pad.**
The Madcatz 4716 pads are often used for padhacking and dual modding because of their common ground mapping. These are wired pads and they come with breakaway dongles, and are relatively easy to padhack. They don’t have super small contacts, and have a lot more room for error as opposed to other pads. If you want a wireless pad, look elsewhere; this guide is not for you.
There are many places you can obtain the Madcatz 4716 2008/2009 pads. My current go-to store is Gamestop. The Gamestop branded pads are almost always Madcatz 4716 pads, and if they’re in the retail store, they’re probably pretty new. I’ve been to four different Gamestops and purchased a pad from each one, and they’ve all ended up being Madcatz 4716 2009 pads. The color doesn’t matter, and you can usually see the 4716 and year by looking at the back of the pad.
This is what the back of the pad should look like:
If you don’t want to get pads at Gamestop, I know Radio Shack sells them, but they’re a little more expensive there, and I’ve heard that Walmart and Toys-R-Us also stock them.
Step 2: Disassemble the Casing Around the PCB
There are 8 screws on the back of the madcatz pad. I’ve circled them in the picture.
Sorry! My hand got in the way! I promise the screw is under there!
Sometimes, the screws can be a bit tricky to get out, and its kind of tough to get them to move with such a small screwdriver. At those times, I suggest using one hand to push down as hard as you can on the top of the screwdriver, and the other hand to use pliers to twist the handle of the screwdriver. Do this for a couple turns and the rest of the way will be easy.
Warning: This method leaves temporary marks on your hand!
After the screws are gone, you can just pull the front and back halves of the casing off. The triggers might get stuck in the back, so gently wiggle the back half while you pull it off. Let all the guts and switches fall off. You can pull off the rubber pads on top of the A,B,X,Y,Up,Down,Left, and Right contacts.
See, its so easy I can use one hand to do it.
Save this part (used to hold the USB cord in) to apply flux!
Now we need to get rid of those rumble motors. We won’t be using them. Simply cut the wires with your scissors.
It’s that easy.
Next, remove eight screws on the PCB to free the Guide button and Trigger mechanisms. I’ve circled them here.
If you need to use the pliers trick here, something is SERIOUSLY wrong.
With the screws removed, you can pull off the triggers and guide button. When you pull the triggers off, make sure you don’t pull the yellow pots off.
Step 3: Cut, Strip, and Tin Wires
Next, we need to prepare our wires. Cut and strip them. That should be relatively easy.
Then, we need to tin the ends of the wires we’re going to connect to the pcb. Use your soldering iron to heat the wire, and apply solder to the wire. The solder should be “sucked up” by the wire, and the wire should turn stiff and silver colored.
This isn’t the best tin… there’s a glob of solder on the end. It’s okay if this happens, we can still roll with it!
Step 4: Wire up the PCB!
Here it is! The moment we’ve all been waiting for! We finally get to solder to the PCB! Get familiar with these pictures:
Notice my PCB is labeled 4716-1 VER.E and the DPAD addon is 4716-2 VER.C. If yours are different, this mapping MIGHT be wrong.
On my mappings, there are contacts for signal and ground. We need to tap into these. Using that little piece of plastic we saved, apply some flux to each of the SIGNAL contacts. This will help the solder we tinned onto the wire form a stronger connection with the PCB. Once that is done, solder the tinned wires to the contacts. Give each connection a little tug to make sure its solid, but not too hard, or you might remove the contact.
Now, choose one GROUND contact. Since this pad is common ground, we only need to tap into one of them, and we can use that for all of our buttons. I normally chose one of the dpad contacts, since they are bigger. Repeat the process, and solder a wire to it.
When you’re done, the pad should look something like this:
Notice I haven’t added a ground wire yet. You should definitely do that before progressing.