HRAP 2 Modding Tutorial


Before going on with the tutorial, everyone should know that any props given to me should really go to Fubarduck. He posted the original HRAP2 Modding Guide/Review thread that my guide is based on. My guide is pretty much a small update that was created to address a few concerns/questions that I had when I was modding my HRAP2 with his guide. This guide will work with any type of Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons as long as they fit in the 30mm and 24mm holes. However, if you decide to use screw-ins, keep in mind that you may need to sand the nut for the X button. With that said, on with the guide. =)

This guide will help you with…

  • Removing and replacing the stock Hori buttons with new buttons (In this case, Seimitsu PS-14-K)
  • Removing and replacing the stock JLF with a Seimitsu LS-32-01 (Optional)
  • Removing the turbo switches

Tools that I used

From top to bottom

  1. Needle-nose pliers (optional) - Helps with the pesky washers that are used with the screws that hold down the faceplate
  2. 7mm Nut screwdriver
  3. #1 Phillips screwdriver
  4. #2 Phillips screwdriver (for the screws that mount the stick itself)
  5. 3/16 Slotted/Flathead screwdriver (optional) - Helps with the removal of the quick disconnects and balltops

Ignore steps 1 and 2 if you have an HRAP2 SA. Just use an allen key to unscrew the bolts.

Step 1
Remove the 8 screws that hold the bottom plate in place with the #1 Phillips screwdriver

After removing the bottom plate, you will see this.

Before you do anything else, pull out the PSX cord from the case. It will give you more room to work with.

Step 2
Remove the 6 nuts holding down the faceplate using the 7mm Nut screwdriver, then remove the 6 washers and screws. Flip the stick over and you should now have access to the HRAP2’s innards.

Step 3
Make a note of what color = what button (or refer back to the above picture when plugging the quick disconnects back in). You don’t want to finish modding your stick, only to find out that X is mapped to L2, O to Start, etc.

Now, remove the QDs from the buttons. Doing this may be tricky, as the QDs are on VERY tight. This is where the Slotted/Flathead screwdriver comes in.

Place the screwdriver under the QD (as shown).

Now, twist the screwdriver left and/or right (as shown).

The QD should pop right out. You may have to pull the QD out a little before you are able to place the screwdriver in the desired position to twist. Repeat for all the other QDs.

Step 4
Remove the buttons from the faceplate. This should be fairly easy. The buttons have 2 tabs on opposite sides of itself.

Press on these tabs while pushing the button out. The buttons should pop out relatively easily.

Step 5
Insert new your new buttons and button covers. Snap-in and screw-in buttons from both Sanwa and Seimitsu work. Just keep in mind that Sanwa screw-ins won’t fit in the hole closest to the stick or the X button. For this tutorial, I used snap-ins from Seimitsu for both the buttons and the Start/Select buttons.

At this point, your faceplate should look somewhat like this.



For those of you who feel comfortable playing with the Sanwa that came with the HRAP2 and have decided not to swap the stick to a Seimitsu, you can just plug in your quick disconnects, screw everything back in, and be done with it. For those of you who have planned to swap out the sticks, keep reading.

Step 6
Remove the hot glue on the 5-pin connector.

You should be able to just peel that off with your fingers. Use tools if necessary.

Step 7
Remove the balltop from the Sanwa. Do this by inserting the Slotted/Flathead screwdriver into the bottom of the stick itself (as shown)

Now twist off the ball. Remember, righty tighty lefty loosie. Remove the shaft and dust covers while you’re at it.

Step 8
Remove the 4 screws that mount the Sanwa onto the faceplate using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.

Warning: These screws are on **VERY **tight. Make sure that you use a good #2 Phillips screwdriver. My friend tried removing the screws with an old #2 Phillips screwdriver. He ended up stripping one of the screws very badly. I ended up having to buy a new set of screwdrivers (using my dad’s old set just wasn’t cutting it). The new set (shown in the first picture), with some power, took the mildly stripped screw right out. Lucky him =).

Step 9
Remove the Sanwa and wipe up the excess grease from the stick and faceplate. Sorry, forgot to take a picture of this =P. The stuff was kinda dark yellow. Sort of looked like cooking oil.

Step 10
Insert Seimitsu stick. In my case, the Seimitsu LS-32-01 w/ lavender bubble top. Remember to remove the balltop and dust cover first.

You will notice that the stick will not mount the way that the Sanwa was originally mounted. You’re going to have to mount the LS-32-01, then rotate the PCB 90 clockwise. When first mounting the stick, have the 5-pin connector point downwards (away from the turbo switches as shown).

Now, take 2 mounting screws from the Sanwa and screw them in both the center of the left and right sides. That’s all you will need to hold the stick down.

After mounting the LS-32-01, take the #1 Phillips screwdriver and proceed to remove the dark blue restrictor from the bottom of the stick.

Now, proceed to remove the screws that mount the PCB onto the stick (top, bottom, left, and right screws.)

After removing the screws, pull out the PCB and rotate it 90 clockwise, so that the 5-pin connector is facing the buttons.

Screw on the PCB, then the dark blue restrictor back on as shown in the picture below.

An alternative method to this was posted by Paik4Life.

Step 11
Put all of the QDs back in place and plug in the 5-pin connector into the LS-32-01. The QDs should snap into place on the prongs of the buttons and the 5-pin connector should go in smoothly.

Make sure that the 5-pin connector is plugged in upside-down (as shown).

Now, just screw the faceplate back on with the 7mm Nut screwdriver, remembering to put the washers back on between the nuts and screws. Then put the PSX cord back where it was originally and proceed to screw back on the 8 screws for the bottom plate of the HRAP2 with the #1 Phillips screwdriver.

And that’s it! Here’s my finished product.

I loved the HRAP2 stock. After performing this mod, I love it even more. The buttons are just great and I love the smaller dead space of the LS-32-01. I hope everyone out there finds this tutorial helpful and easy to follow

How to remove the turbo switches
After opening up the bottom plate of the HRAP2, go to the top right corner

Take out the 2 screws there, then proceed to remove the top faceplate of the HRAP2. The turbo switch panel should now be loose.

On the back of the turbo switch panel, there should be 2 tabs that hold onto the PCB. Press them to remove the PCB. Be careful when removing this because the switches are loose.

And that’s it. After you remove the switches, just place a piece of paper to cover the exposed PCB and put everything back together.

Feel free to ask questions/criticize/comment =)

Edit: Heh, just realized this, but sorry if some of the pictures are a bit blurry. I’m not a great photographer =P

Edit 2: My stick now does [media=youtube]KgF1KIIpjDU"]this. Details on how to do the mod [URL=“”[/media]


Great work :tup:

its in the Essential Thread


Well done :tup:


oOo I’ve never had anything stickied before haha. I feel somewhat special XD.

Thanks R-Chie :slight_smile:


I see the parts was used well ^_^.


Ohhhh man, very much appreciated. I went over fubarduck’s thread a dozen times and I was still scratching my head. I actually feel confident about trying this out myself now!


Very nice. Just as an FYI, you can also just turn the mounting plate 90 degrees for the LS-32-01 instead of removing the screws from the restrictor and the PCB. It’s a bit faster and easier.



Great tutorial :tup:


awesome tutorial. figured there would be some type of actual hard modding, but i guess not hehe. great stuff. just wondering, kinda off topic, but is there a way to raise the stick shaft on an ls-32-01?


Not that I know of. Maybe Per would know =P


Nice thread, but personally I would have used hole plugs for the L1 and L2 buttons (as shown in FubarDuck’s HRAP2 modding thread), as they get in the way and are begging to be pressed accidentally.

Arcade sticks should have only 6 buttons IMHO.


I don’t have a problem when it comes to L1 and L2. I’ve never really pressed it on accident o_O. I keep those there because I’ll play the occasional Narutimate Accel and other games that require those buttons to play and/or reset the game. If I ever do get bothered by those buttons, I do have a couple of Seimitsu button plugs lying around =P.


Paik is RIGHT :smile: that’s what I did. Regardless though, Good updated version of the HRAP 2 Mod. Wish this was around when I modded mine as mine was a funny story. Lets’ just say the turbo switch buttons hit me in the face when they all flew out, hehe.


One thing to ask about sanwa buttons you could use on HRAP2:

If a screw-in does not work for the X button, what about instead you have one snap-in for X, and the rest screw-in? Would that work?




Really nice guide man. Will use it when I get around to modding mine.


Yep. No reason for it not to =P.

Another alternative I’ve heard around the boards is to take the nut from an Seimitsu button and put it on the Sanwa. I hear those nuts are slightly smaller, so they should fit.


could someone point me in the direction for a HRAP1 modding tutorial?


Modding an HRAP1 is more or less the same as modding an HRAP2 unless you have an HRAP 1 ver. B.

For HRAP1’s, an all Sanwa screw-in mod is possible because there is more space between the X button and the joystick. There is no need to change the nut to a Seimitsu nut or anything. Everything else should be the same as an HRAP2.

However, if the HRAP1 is a ver. B, the only problem you’ll encounter is putting in a Seimitsu stick. Maybe someone will chime in and help you out with this if you need it.


thanks. i have another question. the pics from up above, is that a square gate on the stick? how would you put an octagonal gate on it?