HRAP Modding (Probably a dumb question)

Alright, this is most likely an easy question to answer, but I need to be absolutely sure about everything if I go through with this plan.

I currently own a HRAP 1a, which is starting to die because the cord somehow managed to split open some, and the wiring got a little fucked up. Every so often it’s as if the stick becomes unplugged.

Upon noticing this I quickly started searching for a replacement HRAP1 (I prefer the HRAP1 button layout over the HRAP2). I found one place that was supposedly selling them for 272 dollars, which I’m not entirely against paying as long as it’s the absolute last resort, so I kept searching. Eventually I stumbled upon a place that was selling HRAP sticks, and rejoiced as I ordered one. It finally came today, and I open the box to see that it’s a HRAP2 stick, despite the site description not mentioning a 2 at all, and having a picture of the original stick.

Obviously, while amazed I could even find a new HRAP2, I’m still a bit disappointed. Returning the stick seems risky as I may never find another HRAP1. So my question is this:

Is it easily possible to modify the HRAP2 stick to have the HRAP1 layout if I were to use my HRAP1 panel? I know as the stick has had different models come out they’ve changed the amount of space and equipment used.


You should be able to just swap the metal plates. I remember seeing on here someone putting a HRAP2 plate on top of a HRAP1 black base.

Man I seem to remember a few months ago there were tons of HRAP1s on ebay. Now there’s absolutely none. Could have been HRAP2s though…can’t really remember.

On another note though, you could also just hack a new PCB in your HRAP1 instead of switching out the plate, right?

Why not replace the cord in your original?

Send 'em both to me. Sounds like got a spare HRAP2, which is a fair price for some repair work. :slight_smile:

That’s what I would think too, but obviously I want to check with some people who have had more experience with the insides of the HRAP2 than I have.

Thanks. I’ll continue to look around a bit, but it’s probably a better idea to switch them than to just return it. I think I may have found another site, which I’ll call tomorrow.


They’re both pretty much the same besides the button layout and spacing, so go ahead. Btw, the better/cheaper option would’ve been to replace the cord and/or PCB as Toodles said. I say get the HRAP1 fixed, then you’ll have 2 sticks, unless you’re in need of money, then just return or ebay the HRAP2 =D

Don’t bother return it. I bet shipping will be a good chunk of change and you’d probably be better off selling here or on EBay. Worse case scenario I would just change the PCB. Shouldn’t be a problem unless you use the turbo functions.

Originally the plan was to get the replacement HRAP1, and to then try and fix up the older one to have two sticks. How simple is replacing the cord (not using the HRAP2 cord) while retaining the original PCB?

And yeah, I shouldn’t have said “returning”. If I can find another HRAP1, the HRAP2 will probably go up for sale for another SRKer. Gotta help each other out.


Dont they all use the quick disconnects and JLF harness? If so, replacing the top is just a matter of getting it open, unplugging and replugging (20 quick disconnects and one JLF harness).

If you wanted to pull out the cord on the HRAP2 and install it on your HRAP1, that’d be even easier. I guess its just a question of whether you want the black case or the white case.

Might be interested in that HRAP2 faceplate. PM sent!

I wouldn’t mind having a spare faceplate either, but Yeton’s got dibs on it first. Let me know if you change your mind Yeton =)

Lol, no problem.

Actually, someone asked me that last night via PM. I’m not sure what I’m going to do yet, so I don’t want to make any promises or get anyone’s hopes up.


You can use a T5 US cord to replace the one in the HRAP. I’ve tested it on my HRAP2 and T5 when I had them both and they work great.

another option is to swap your HRAP2 top for a T5 Top, because T5 and HRAP1 are the same except for not having the opening for the turbo switches.

Are the controller cords saudered to the board at all? Or are they connected to the PCB by some sort of plug connection? I’ve never opened by stick to that far of a degree.


I know the HRAP2 uses a pluggable connector. If you remove the bottom plate, you can pull it right out. I got some pics of it here somewhere.


Same with the Tekken 5, except it’s plugged to the side instead of the center for the HRAPs. You can unplug the T5 without desoldering everything, but the HRAP, you’re much better off unscrewing everything, so you can plug the wire in firmly.

Awesome, know anywhere I can buy replacement cables? Got any spare HRAP power cords lying around from all that UPCB making you’re doing? hmm?


Of course :slight_smile: I still got the one from that picture. Got any cool but cheap toys I could put to use? xbox360 controller pcbs, xboxlive point cards, used DOA4, neogeo memory card, make me an offer.

I have money? Pick something, maybe we can make a deal.