Installing an LED in clear Seimitsu buttons?


#1

I’m so close to finishing my latest stick. Wiring it up now… I have these clear Seimitsu buttons and I was thinking that it’d be fun to put some LEDs into them. Does anyone know if this is possible and how I would go about it? If I can’t get the LED inside the button, I’ll probably just glue it beneath the button or something.


#2

isn’t the micro-switch in the way?


#3

if you’re using small 3mm LEDs, you can probably find a place on the side to drill a small hole and insert them without getting in the way of the operation, but it wont be an even glow; the microswitch with block a lot of it, making the side with the led glow brighter.

Just take a button all the way apart and try to figure out the best place for an LED.


#4

I’d just hot glue like 20 leds around each button as opposed to inside. By 20 I mean like 2-3. It looks nice regardless of whether the LEDs are inside or outside the button cuz you still get light.


#5

Actually, here’s a thought:

Rather than 2-3 leds, just use 1 HID (high intensity discharge) LED, then wrap the bottom of each button plus the LED with the reflective side of aluminum foil. Use heat shrink tubing on your wires/switch contacts to prevent the foil from shorting out your wiring.


#6

Numbski, that is a great answer, although too costly and complicated. I just checked, and I can indeed fit 2 LEDs inside of a 30 mm button. The connectors simply extend through the snap-in slots of the button. It’s gonna look cool!


#7

that shit sounds hot. i hope you can post up photos.


#8

Thanks for the kind words! :lovin: I’m 95% done now…

One last question. Does anyone know how I can make an LED light up only when a button is pressed? I would like the Xbox 360 Guide button to light up when pressed.


#9

you might be able to use a transistor if there is a common ground shared between the buttons and the driving source for the LED


#10

Update: 1 3mm LED should be fine, and it shouldn’t really need a Resistor since most 3mm Green LEDs are rated around 3v and all you’re gonna get from the controller is 3v max anyway, around 2.7v or so if ya use the PnC battery pack.

So I got a 360 controller guru to show me where to solder the LED’s wires to… No extra hardware needed, thank goodness. But I’d already closed the stick back up! Oy, more work ahead of me.


#11

Was just going to say something along those lines. Pushbuttons are spst switches, which means “single pole, single throw”. You’re closing a single circuit. You want them to close two circuits (one that registers the button press, one that lights up your LED), so if you can get away with connecting one leg to the switch, and the other leg to a power source, and then connect the power source to the second pin of the pushbutton, awesome. The problem as I see it there is that the power source is backfeeding your controller circuit, which would worry me about damanage. A resistor may or may not be needed, as you said. If 3V won’t harm the controller circuit, then what I said above should fix you up.


#12

yeah I would not try any configuration that risked backfeeding whatever the controller is hooked up too on the live side of the button; you will need a resistor to run any LED without frying it

on a side note, did the guy you talked to show you how to hook it up to light on press or just always be on?


#13

I think that’s what he was referring to, and that’s what I was saying about wiring it up. So here’s the wiring I’d say to go with:

button pin 1—>LED leg 1—>(LED)–>LED leg 2–>resistor–>power supply ±—>power supply - ---->button pin 2

That would light it up on-press, and protect your console…I think? Anyone want to confirm?


#14

I’ll test it out tonight. I have some extra LEDs lying about.


#15

Looking forward to seeing the result…


#16

Any luck, Mikei? I don’t usually share my secret tech stuff (heh), but here is the image my source provided:

The red spot is positive and the blue spot is a ground spot (you could use any working ground spot).

Apparently this will cause the LED to light when Guide is pressed. I don’t think I even have to connect it to the actual button. Will try it later tonight!


#17

that would light it up on press but would also backfeed the control system

if you wanted to use a controller other than the 360 (which apparently has a custom way of doing it) this is how I would do it:

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c359/Banthur/button_on_down-1.jpg

revised circuit… no longer req common ground (edit); this would only put a very small load on the control system and would never backfeed power into it.

edit: it looks like he did recommend putting the LED into straight series with the button’s control system. did he mention if you would need a resistor on that line too? there is a small chance this would cause the guide button to stop working depending on how the controller was setup but I’ll assume whoever you talked too knows more about 360 electronics than I


#18

The “transistor” in that diagram is just the LED itself, right?

IE, in a stick you put one leg to your ground (or common ground?) and the other gets wired into the switch? ???

I really need to learn to read diagrams and do some project boxes. This is an old annoyance of mine. I can code some, do all sorts of computing mods, but I can’t handle a simple circuit diagram. :\


#19

no, the transistor is a discrete part in and of itself; basically its function is an electrical switch: when the button is open; no current is allowed to flow from V+ to ground so the LED is off. However, when the button is closed then current flows from the controller system to ground (through the middle leg and the arrow-leg of the transistor); this opens an electronic path for the LED’s current (V+ -> ground).

I know my explanation is crude… it’s basically an electronic switch as opposed to mechanical, controlled by current instead of physics.

http://www.technologystudent.com/elec1/transis1.htm

that page has some diagrams that might make it more clear… keep in mind the “0v” on his diagram is essentially the same thing as ground…

Other notes about this: you would want to test the current flow through the button during its on state to select an appropriate transistor (ie one that won’t get fried) although I don’t think it would be too high for most parts


#20

Well, the 360 tech guru said he didn’t believe it’d need transistors or resistors. He does indeed know the 360 controller tech better than any non-MS employee.
Should I get one anyway? How much are they and what stats would I look for at Radio Shack??