Installing an MC Cthulhu and Imp in an Xbox 360 SF4 SE stick


A while back I modified a Street Fighter Anniversary Stick with Happ parts to work on Xbox 360, Playstation 3, and GameCube/Wii. But that was the stone age of stick modifcation, and here we are now in the golden age!
These days, the same functionality and more can be accomplished using Toodles’ MC Cthulhu and Imp boards. It’s important to start with an Xbox 360 stick (or at least a common ground Xbox 360 controller PCB) because Toodles’ Cthulhu boards only take care of the PS3 side of things. The Imp board allows the user to toggle between Xbox 360 and Playstation 3 modes using the Guide/Home button instead of a DPDT switch, which is cleaner and nicer.

This guide focuses on installing the MC Cthulhu and Imp boards into a Madcatz Street Fighter IV Standard Edition FightStick. The concepts discussed here will work with any stick that uses an Xbox 360 common ground PCB though, such as the SFIV Tournament Edition FightStick and the Hori Fighting Stick EX2 (if you can actually fit everything in there). If you only want the stick to work with Xbox 360 and Playstation 3 consoles (and not GameCube/Wii, Playstation 1/2, and Xbox 1), then using a regular Cthulhu board instead of an MC Cthulhu board will save you some money. You can and should purchase the unassembled version of either Cthulhu board, since I do not recommend using the USB jack or screw-down terminals that come on the preassembled boards. As for the extra system support, I chose to install an RJ-45 jack into the stick rather than have multiple cords coming out of it. It’s a little more expensive, but cleaner and allows for easily adding support for extra systems in the future.

I’m going to assume that you have already installed a Sanwa or Seimitsu arcade stick and buttons into your stick. My stick uses a Seimitsu LS-32-00, which requires soldering wires directly to its microswitches instead of using a wire harness. That’s actually a little more work than just using a Seimitsu LS-32-01 or Sanwa stick, but I already owned an LS-32-00, so that’s what I used. I also replaced the SE stick’s Start and Back buttons with Sanwa 24mm buttons. This requires some extra work and increases the cost of modification, so only do it if you strongly prefer all arcade buttons.

Parts required:

-MC Cthulhu. Cost: $35 from LizardLick. Also available from
-Imp kit. Cost: $9 from LizardLick. Order both boards together and enjoy their fair shipping prices. :slight_smile:
-30 AWG Kynar wire. Cost: About $5 at RadioShack, if they actually have it. I just order 100 foot rolls on Ebay.
-Wire strippers that are capable of stripping 30 AWG wire. A lot of them don’t have holes that small. This one from Amazon is just $7, though I prefer a different design.
-A Dremel tool with grinding bit. Cost: About $40 at Walmart.
-A drill.
-A soldering iron. Cost: About $8 for a crappy one from RadioShack. Good enough!
-Solder. Cost: About $5 from RadioShack.
-At least one screw to mount the MC Cthulhu. It needs to be a little longer than the SE stick screw that it will be replacing. When installing in a TE stick, additional screws will not be necessary.

If installing an RJ-45 jack:

-A 24 mm hole saw drill bit (and a guide bit if it doesn’t come with one). Cost: About $20 from Ace Hardware. This is only needed if you choose to install 24 mm buttons and/or the RJ-45 jack that I recommend.
-A Neutrik RJ-45 jack. I used the NE8FDP-B. Cost: $10 from LizardLick or $11.50 from Mouser Electronics.
-One Neutrik NE8MC-B-1 RJ-45 connector per cable that you are making (GameCube/Wii, Playstation 1/2, Xbox 1, etc.). Cost: About $3.50 each from Mouser Electronics. I don’t believe LizardLick sells these.
-An RJ-45 crimp tool. Cost: $15-30. This one is $22 at Amazon.
-Several standard RJ-45 connectors. I used Belkin R6G088-10 connectors, which are $4 for 10 at
-One Cat5 ethernet cable. Monoprice sells 12-inch ethernet cables for about $2 shipped. They come in other colors too.
-An exacto knife
-A multimeter. Toodles recommends this one, but the shipping is really slow, so be warned. Cost: $14 from DealExtreme. I use and enjoy it, though the stock 9V battery died really quickly.
-If making a GameCube, Playstation 1/2, or Xbox 1 cable, you’ll need an extension cable for that system. Toodles sells these or you can buy them in cheap 2-packs on Ebay.

MC Cthulhu + Imp v2 + Madcatz xbox360 + RJ45 custom stick + ArcEye2 + Toodles FGwidget LED control
The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!
Rebuilding our knowledge base
Dual mod PS3 TE
Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!)

First remove the metal plate from the bottom of the stick by unscrewing all 6 Philips screws.

Installing 24 mm Start and Back buttons

If you are going to install 24 mm buttons, drill the holes now, using the outer edges of the old button holes as guides. Be careful to allow enough space between the new holes so that the buttons will fit next to each other. Afterward, Dremel away as much excess plastic inside the stick as needed to allow the buttons to go all the way in.

Installing the RJ-45 jack

Now let’s drill a hole for the RJ-45 jack. For a TE stick, refer to this post.

First observe where we will be mounting the Cthulhu board.

We want the RJ-45 jack far enough out of the way that it won’t interfere with the Cthulhu’s mounting position.

After drilling the main hole, Dremel away the excess plastic inside the stick that would keep the jack from mounting flush inside the stick.
Now remove the black piece of plastic with the Neutrik logo from the RJ-45 jack. Hold it over the outside of the hole you just drilled and use the two smaller holes in the plastic as guides to drill screw holes.
Inside the stick housing, slide the rest of the RJ-45 jack into its 24mm hole. Then place the black plastic piece on the outside and screw it in.

Soldering diagrams

Here is a map of where we will be soldering wires to the Xbox 360 PCB. You can solder every single wire to the underside of the main PCB.

For the Cthulhu board, Akihabara Shop’s excellent diagram will do the trick.

Update! These images show where every wire should be connected between the PCBs.

PS3-only Cthulhu to SE Stick
MC Cthulhu to SE Stick
PS3-only Cthulhu to TE Stick
MC Cthulhu to TE Stick
Please note that with PS3-only Cthulhu mods, the diagrams show the power wire connecting the Cthulhu and Imp as coming from the 3rd row V point. You should actually connect the wire to the Cthulhu’s USB 5V point, not row 3-V.

Assembling the Cthulhu and Imp boards

Each of these boards come with several chips and such that must be soldered on. Refer to the printed instructions they come with. Make sure you install every component - including the capacitors - before mounting the boards.

Mounting the PCBs

Unscrew the SE stick’s main PCB. Remove the USB cable by either desoldering it or cutting off the wires as close to the SE PCB as possible. Cut the wire that was attached to SGND (shielded ground) completely off because we won’t be using it when attaching the cable to the Imp. Flip the SE PCB over and screw it back in. Now remove the right-most screw from the buttons quick disconnect panel and mount the Imp board where that screw goes. Replace the screw. The arrow in this image shows which screw I am referring to.

Mounting the Cthulhu board is slightly trickier because it will rest directly over the SE stick’s Guide/Turbo panel PCB. To prevent the two boards from shorting each other out, put something nonconductive like a piece of cardboard or an index card between them. You can use electrical tape as well, but it’s not thick enough to use all by itself. Remove the 2 screws in this picture and line up the MC Cthulhu over their holes. You need to replace the left-most screw with a longer one.

Wiring from the SE PCB to the Cthulhu

You have decided on what button you’ll be connecting each Playstation 3 button to, right? The scheme I used is A - X, B - Circle, X - Square, Y - Triangle, Left Bumper - L1, Left Trigger - L2, Right Bumper - R1, Right Trigger - R2, Back - Select, Start - Start, and Guide - Home. Solder a wire from each of these points on the SE PCB to the matching spot on the Cthulhu. You can also use this spot on the Turbo/Guide PCB for the Guide button, but only if you attached a wire there before mounting the Cthulhu.
Connect all four directions from the SE PCB to the appropriate spots on the Cthulhu as well.
Now connect a wire from one of the Cthulhu’s ground points to any of the SE’s ground points. Do the same from the 5V point on the Cthulhu to the VCC point on the SE PCB.

Note: If using a presassembled Cthulhu or MC Cthulhu, the wire terminals won’t work with Kynar wire. You could desolder the terminals, but it’s much easier to just solder the wires from the 360 PCB to the points beneath the terminals on the bottom of the Cthulhu board.

Wiring from SE and Cthulhu PCBs to the Imp

Let’s install the SE’s USB cable to the Imp. The imp has four holes specifically for the USB cable at its top, so make sure you attach the USB cable wires to those exact holes. Solder the cable’s green wire to D+, white to D-, red to V, and black to G. We’re not using the shielded ground wire, so hopefully you cut that off already.

Connect the SE PCB’s GND point (the one where the USB cable was originally attached, for simplicity’s sake) to the Ground points on the Imp. Run a wire from the SE’s Guide button point (which should already have a wire attached to it unless you opted to use this alternate point to connect Guide and Home) to the Guide point on the Imp. Ignore the Start and Back points on the Imp; we won’t be using them.

The Imp still needs a power wire. If using an MC Cthulhu, run a wire from the V point in the first column on the MC Cthulhu (right above Column 2, where we’ll be connecting the RJ-45 jack soon). The point is labeled at the bottom of this image:

If using a PS3-only Cthulhu, run the power wire from the Cthulhu’s USB 5V point (next to D+ and D-).

If you are installing an MC Cthulhu rather than a PS3-only Cthulhu, connect the 360 SE PCB’s D+ and D- points to the Imp’s 2D+ and 2D- points. The MC Cthulhu’s D+ and D- wires should connect to the Imp’s 1D+ and 1D- points.
However, if you installed a PS3-only Cthulhu, feel free to connect the 360 data wires to the Imp’s 1-data points and the Cthulhu’s data wires to the Imp’s 2-data points. The Imp will switch to whichever console’s data wires are connected to the 1-data points by default. You must hold the Guide/Home button when inserting the stick’s USB cable into the console in order to switch to the system that is wired to the Imp’s 2-data points. Does that make sense?
Note: **If using a presassembled Cthulhu or MC Cthulhu, the USB jack covers up the Cthulhu’s 4 USB solder points. There’s no need to remove the jack; just solder to the corresponding points where the jack is attached beneath the Cthulhu board.

Your Cthulhu should now look a lot like this:

And the SE PCB and Imp should look like this:

Testing the Stick, Round One!

At last your stick should be ready to test! I prefer to test them with a Windows PC since you won’t have to worry about turning your consoles on and off or booting games.

First test the Cthulhu by simply plugging it into the PC and then going to Control Panel/Game Controllers. An MC Cthulhu will come up as “Cthulhu Multiconsole Edition”. Apparently Windows may not detect it properly until the second time you plug it in, so remove and reinsert the USB cable if it doesn’t show up as a Cthulhu. From the Game Controllers Window, highlight the stick’s name and click on Properties. Verify that every single button (including Home, excluding Turbo) and direction functions correctly. Buttons 11 and 12 are unused, so don’t worry about those two.

To test the Xbox 360 portion of the stick, hold Guide when plugging the stick into the PC. The Guide button will light up when the stick is in Xbox 360 mode. Windows should see it as “Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV FightStick)”. Make sure every single button works, except for Guide and Turbo, which have no Windows functions.

Wiring the RJ-45 jack

Hopefully your stick is functioning correctly in Xbox 360 and Playstation 3 modes and you are ready to add support for extra consoles. Cut off one end of your ethernet cable so that only 6 inches remain attached. Using an exacto knife, slice from the cut end all the way to the remaining RJ-45 plug. Chop off the rubber shielding so that it doesn’t interfere with the wires you’ll be soldering.

First you must determine which wire goes to which pin on the RJ-45 connector. Use AcceptableRisk’s image to number the pins. There are two ways to determine which wire goes to which pin:

Visually: Look at what color wire is connected to each pin and write it down.
Multimeter:** Set the multimeter to continuity test. Hold one lead to pin 1 and then hold the other lead to each wire until you find the wire that corresponds to the pin. Repeat for each pin, writing down which color wire goes to which pin. The multimeter method is a little more accurate since wire colors may be obscured inside the actual RJ-45 connector.

Now it’s time to wire the ethernet cable to the MC Cthulhu. The MC Cthulhu has 3 rows of solder points dedicated to adding extra cables; each row is labeled G, A, B, C, D, E, F, and V. You can connect your Cat5 cable wires to either the first or second row. I used the first row but the second would actually give you a little more room to work with, so use that instead.

Attach the ethernet cable’s wires like so:
Pin 1: G
Pin 2: A
Pin 3: B
Pin 4: C
Pin 5: D
Pin 6: E
Pin 7: F
Pin 8: V**

Finally, plug the RJ-45 connector of the cable into the RJ-45 jack inside the stick.

Congratulations, your arcade stick is complete!

But our princess is in another castle… Err, you still need some cables to plug in that RJ-45 jack.

Creating cables for other consoles

Coming soon!


My stick artwork

See more pics in the Custom Stick Gallery:

Special Thanks

I want to thank all the Shoryuken forums users who made this modification possible.

-Thanks to MarkMan for his contributions to the Street Fighter IV SE FightStick’s design (and of course the rest of the MadCatz design team).
-Thanks to Toodles for his excellent MC Cthulhu and Imp board designs as well as trouble-shooting advice. All custom stick builders owe him big-time!
-LizardLick Amusements provided the Seimitsu parts used in my stick. They are still the best US retailer for stick parts!

-Thank you Imitrex for supplying the Sanwa 24mm buttons and your constant encouragement in making this stick and guide.
-Thanks to Kooper for moral support and some great Bomberman Live matches!

-AdditionalRisk created this terrific thread and taught me how to wire RJ-45 connectors:
-RoboKrikit helped me chose the right Neutrik RJ-45 jack and connectors in this thread:
-Fundando was one of the first people to install a Cthulhu in an SE stick. Good job dude!

Presoldering/Installation Service

If you don’t feel like doing this mod yourself, maybe you’d like me to do it. Check out my sales thread.


Ediit: I guess you have it up now no need for me to link to mine


looking forward to it


Can’t wait to see it all done. :smile:


Rated thread solely on potential :lovin:

No pressure Bomberman! :rofl:


high five




He hadn’t posted anything yet. I meant no disrespect. I just didn’t know what reserved really meant.

Good Stuff Bomberman!


The guide is now complete except for making the modular system cables and showing off my stick artwork. I hope it helps people. :smiley:


Awesome thread dude!! +++ Very useful. :clapdos:

And lol, love the Bomberman doll… hes even winking!! lol


Amazing thread. Would bromance with you again.


Looks great. One thing I might want to point out is that the diodes on the MC have been bypassed by the USB cable; there is no protection if someone pulls a stupid and plugs it into two consoles at once. The VCC from the RJ45 connection does go through a diode, but the USB cable one doesn’t. What I’d suggest you do is have the wire going from the VCC point on the Imp going to row 2 column V on the imp, so it goes through the other black diode. I can’t tell where the specific wires are going, but the 360 pcb should be getting its power from the VCC screw terminal point on the Cthulhu. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.


I will rep you for sure after I get my 500 posts in. Very nice guide.


Bomberman, you say the Hori EX2 has Common Ground PCB?

Great reading Guide.

Bomberman plush really cute.


Eastx, good shit. :wink:

I’ll be passing this around to anyone I know who asks me about the subject of dual modding…


Yes Jdm714, the Hori EX2 is common ground. Most Hori arcade stick PCBs are, to my knowledge.

Thanks for the compliments everybody! Changed the text of the guide to accommodate Toodles’ suggestion.


This is brilliant. Thank you for this man, you’re the Bomb. Get it? Eh? I know I crack myself up.

Oh one question, since I’m a moran, what is the RJ-45 for? My wife asked me and I tried to look all smart and explain it to her and at some point she walked out of the room because she couldn’t stand the smell of bullshit. So srsly, wtf would I need that for exactly?

I don’t understand why I would want to hook it up to a network… only thing I can think of is flashing bios? Couldn’t that be done by plugging into a PC? My imagination doesn’t stretch too far unfortunately.

If I just wanted 360/PS3 support, would I need it?


Fantastic thread, I personally think it deserves some glue!