^^yes you do. I followed it exactly and works perfectly. Late pic, thanks for this bomberman for this guide and madman for the small walkthrough on moving the back/start. Loving the 10ft GC cable.
Does anybody know how to get rid of the turbo function all together. my te dual mod’s turbo would randomly come on sometime. Thanks
You could cut the one wire in the ribbon cable connecting the Turbo button to the main 360 PCB.
Without getting too technical, and just as a quick primer, how feasible is it to dual mod an SE with an MC Cthulhu while keeping everything more or less reversible? I don’t wanna have to solder to the stock Madcatz PCB, so ideally I think the best thing to do is to get a hold of some of the 5/6-pin connectors (the ones that plug into the PCB with the ribbon cables attached) Madcatz is using, assuming they’re available and not proprietary.
I’m thinking I could grab some male/female connectors and then just make Y-splitter adapters (one end connects to the stock ribbon cable, the Y split plugs into the male end directly on the Madcatz PCB, and the other goes to the MC Cthulu). It’s a shame the USB cable is soldered directly to the Madcatz PCB instead of using a quick connect, but I guess I could snip the cable a few inches out and add some sort of quick connecting adapter so I can just swap between the stock cable and a cable that runs 5V GND etc. to the MC Cthulhu.
I think if we get together and track down these little molex/floppy style connectors (not sure what else to call em, I come from a PC background) and one of the builders takes it up to produce a bunch of Y-splitter adapters we can basically improve dual modding for SE’s (and even TE’s) with true plug and play MC Cthulhu compatibility, little to no soldering required. I think there’d be a huge demand for something like that.
I’m also interested in 5-pin to non common/daisy chained ground joystick harnesses for plug and play JLW, LS-32, cherry switch mods, etc.
And lastly, over the counter ‘breakaway’ style adapters for making GC, PS2, and Xbox cables. RJ-45 is a little ghetto looking in my opinion, and I’d like to see some more alternatives pop up. Personally I’m a fan of screw on or push-through connectors, kind of like these ones used on hoses. I’m sure some of you tech gurus probably know of something similar used for wiring? Anything smaller than RJ-45 and more cylindrical in shape, like the Xbox breakaway plugs is what I’m after. Something S-Video or PS/2 keyboard styled.
Din or mini Din connectors.
Full din 8:
Can’t find a female one.
Please, for all that is holy, if you’re going to link to the min-DINs (which I use and enjoy myself. There’s more work involved, but I can trust the connection more than I do with RJ-45) then please also link to the crimp pins to go with it:
It’ll be rough enough with the crimp pins, and freaking wrist slitting impossible without.
Hard lessons learned from the miniDINs:
- Once the outer sleeve is on all of the way, it ain’t coming back off. So make damn sure you get the arrow aligned in the spot you want it before pushing it all of the way over the center assembly.
- Put the outermost sleeve on the cable and slide it to the end the very first thing! Don’t be like me and remember it AFTER you get the crimp pins on and put them on the pin piece.
- Use a label maker to print out a small cheat sheet with the pin number and matching cthulhu column of your stick. Place label on bottom of stick. 2 months down the line, you’ll be making a new cable and curse because you don’t remember the pinout. Don’t be that guy.
Yeaa, listen to Toodles for sure. I learned those first two lessons the hard way the first time I used mini-DIN. I’ll also add that you should be careful when pushing the crimp pins onto the mini-DIN pins. I snapped one pin off at some point and felt like a careless brute.
Here’s the cheat sheet I used (I think it’s mini-DIN standard, for what that’s worth), in case anyone wants to just use it:
Pin 1: G
Pin 2: A
Pin 3: B
Pin 4: C
Pin 5: D
Pin 6: E
Pin 7: F
Pin 8: V
Toodles, what kind of crimping tool did you use for the crimp pins? Searching Digi-Key’s site for an appropriately sized crimping tool wasn’t very helpful. I just used needle nose pliers–it worked pretty well, but I’d like to be able to get a tighter wrap on the wires.
Thanks, now to find some short barrel din connectors that look good mated. They call the connectors I was talking about “locking” connectors, didn’t see any I liked online though, all long barreled or over sized.
I think the correct term for the little floppy style connectors I’m looking for is friction locking PCB header. Maybe MarkMan can get us the supplier/part Madcatz is using?
These look fairly similar.
I just use needle nose. Tin the wires, and lightly touch it with an iron after the crimp is on. I have a modded AES stick with a long cord with female miniDIN on it, and will make a cigar box stick with a female miniDIN on the box when I get back. Sometimes the crimps are annoying, but I just feel I can trust the miniDIN connection a lot easier than I can RJ-45’s.
So I’m thinking of running LEDs inside my TE (ordered a clear plexi from Tek-Innovations) to be powered up whenever I plug in my stick. Not to light up as I press the buttons, just to light up the insides of the stick when plugged into a console.
Ideally, I could use the top 11 rows of the MC Cthulhu for my buttons (and all applicable spots on the Imp), and use the ground/VCC on the screw terminals to power my LEDs/resistors, correct? Or, is that kinda how you’re supposed to do it?
My plan is to have all the wires lead to a RJ45 jack, including for usb, and based on all the tutorials, it seems like this would work. I figured I’d throw the diagram up to make sure, and so I didn’t damage anything through the install.
I’d wire the ground from G (yellow), D+ to E (Purple), and D- to D (Blue), instead of the designated spots. If my thinking is correct, the wiring should run through the imp, leading to the letters shown below.
Pin - Board - Use \ Letter
1 - Imp - Ground \ G
2 - MC - A
3 - MC - B
4 - MC - C
5 - Imp - Data - \ D
6 - Imp - Data + \ E
7 - MC - F
8 - Imp - VCC
Thanks for any input, and thanks for the diagram Bomberman.
Final edit: I think I found the answer in the FAQ of the official cthulu thread, yes it should work, but I’ll leave this up because A) I could be wrong and B) it could be useful for others.
New here but had some questions. I just bought the original xbox360 Street fighter iv tournament fightstick and am planning to mod it to work with the ps3. I am planning to buy the Chimp Assembled with USB Jack from lizardlicks for $50 (why is it $5 more with the usb jack when the one without the usb jack is $45 and the usb jack is $3 if sold separately? Is it different somehow or is it wiser to get the $45 chimp+$3 usb jack?)
Anyways, back to my questions: I know prophecy asked a few posts ago but, Do I need anything besides the Chimp board to install it onto my Fightstick? By anything, I mean extra wires, tools, or all of that stuff on the first page. The only things I have are the soldering iron and tools to open the stick.
Are all the wires going to be from the stick and I’m just redirecting them onto the chimp board by following the “Installing Chimp in MadCatz XBox360 TE Stick” guide?
One last question:
What is/Where can I get this octagonal(?) gate to replace the square gate? Is it those restrictor plates or mounting plates on lizardlick? I’m sorry if all of this has been asked but I am a complete noob/newb with fightsticks and would just like to get a list of things I need together so I can order everything at once.
You need wire.
The wire is for connecting TE to the ChImp.
You are not redirecting the TE wires to the ChImp.
You need wire cutter.
You need wire stripper.
You need whatever is listed First Post.
You don’t need a rotary tool though.
Just wanted to drop a quick thanks to Bomberman for the detailed tutorial, and big thanks to Toodles for the impressively easy-to-use boards and documentation. After quite a few headaches over the past few days, I managed to get all the kinks worked out and get a successfully dual-modded SE Fightstick up and running (fingers crossed that it stays that way).
I’m holding off for now on the much more involved RJ-45 mod (or perhaps mini-DIN?), but now I actually believe it’s possible for a hack like me. I haven’t done much soldering work since I was a kid (working on RC cars), so this was a bit of a harsh refresher course!
Did you try this? Can anyone confirm this works?
I think this is the same mod I was about to try to attempt, didnt think about the chimp board though, guess I will need to order one of those.
I just have one simple question. The first few post have enough information for me to do the mod for a MC Cthulhu + Imp mod to my TE stick except one piece of info is kinda missing (because its probably so obvious but I want to be sure) there is no clear instruction on how to wire the buttons and joystick.
The pinout is labeled on the pictures for the TE board and the Cthulhu but the wire route is not. I am guessing that you leave the TE board connected as per normal via the ribbon cables and then just solder “extensions” from the back of the TE PCB to the correct button inputs on the Cthulhu board? Like a daisy chain? Do we have a diagram of the way the TE buttons would connect to a MC Chthulhu for proper button placment?
I have lingering thoughts in the back of my head from when I did my last mod that had certain warnings about wiring 2 PCB together, but I do not recall it being an issue with he buttons, it was more to do with the common ground I think, so thats why I just want to make sure.
I may be a new member to the site but I have visited here regularly. I usually look at SF4 stuff and modding arcade stick stuff.
Anyway, last year I spent a couple months studying and reviewing this thread to learn how to dual mod my SE stick. I made sure to know what the heck I was dealing with before I even bought the parts (cthulhu and IMP chip). I managed to barely get it working right before evo2k9. The wiring was janky. I got confused in the guide and ended up wiring things to spots that made sense to me. The main problem with my stick was that the guide/home button wouldn’t work, and it was really difficult to get my stick operating on a PS3 if someone had plugged in another controller prior to or after my stick was plugged in. Almost a year later, I decide to revisit this thread for further reference and do things right. I rewired my stick exactly how it’s shown in the diagrams, but now my stick doesn’t work at all. No devices are detecting it. However, I did melt some wires together on accident. SO… my weekend project is to take out all of those wires, and re-do the entire thing from ground up. I will be following this guide “to the T” and hopefully it works. I thought I should let you all know, thinking it would help if I came across any problems over the weekend. Any advice would be great even though the guide apparently covers everything I need to know.
Thanks in advance,
Just spent the last few hours putting it all together… Did everything the guide shows. I’m convinced my board(s) are fried. There is no response when I plug it in to my pc, ps3 or xbox.
I have a question. I have a Cthulhu and a TE stick, no Imp at the moment. The Cthulhu works fine and all but the 360 portion is having some problems. I’ve checked through the thread and saw it mentioned briefly but with no solid answer.
When I plug in the 360 USB cable to my computer one of the turbo LED’s goes on, along with the 4th player ring on the guide button. I’ve checked for any possible shorts and I don’t see one. Any help is greatly appreciated.