Is it fixable?


So like an idiot it opened up my Mad Catz SF4 SE joystick and voided the warrenty after it started sticking so I decided to pop it open and try to make it work like it should.

Well I got everything apart and super glued the washer down so that it would not have the sticking problem that myself and so many other are experianing.

Well I am guessing I damaged either the connector that plugs into the PCB, or the PCB itself. It would not surprise me if it was the PCB that got damaged, because I really had to pry that clear plate off and the black switches got kinda beat up.

Here is the deal though, when I plugged the stick back into my xbox it would only move in two directions: right and down…so I took the stick back apart and messed around with it again and now the stick will only move in one direction, to the right.

Hopefully from that description someone can tell me what I actually damaged, and potentially how to fix it.

I really don’t want to have to go out and by another arcade stick because they are expensive and very hard to find, so if there is a fix out there please let me know.

Thank you.


I would say buy a Sanwa from Lizardlick or Akihabara and drop it in.


if you used the black switch as the leverage point to pry on, then you might have cracked the PCB… posting a picture would probably be easier to others to figure out what the problem is



Unfortunately I don’t have a camera to speak of, so posting pics poses a bit of a problem.

Taking another look at the PCB, there does not appear the be any cracks to speak of, just some chewed up sections on top of the black switches.

Is it possible to just buy another joystick set up and pop it in there, like a sanwa for instance?

If that is possible, would it come with a new wire/connector for the PCB?



What joystick do you have?

Also see if one of your friends has a camera to borrow and post pics with, it will save you money if others can have a look before you get a new one, especially if its an easy fix.



Before anything else: WHAT MODEL STICK DO YOU HAVE?

First, you need to figure out what is broken…the switches on the stick, the wires in between or the PCB.

To test the stick/switches:

  1. You need a multimeter. If you don’t have one, get one that does VDC, VAC, Ohms, Current, and has a CONTINUITY TESTER.

NOTE: They do sell small devices that ONLY do continuity testing. Most of them are utter crap and suck horribly. Some of the nicer ones are worth having…your mileage may vary…but EVERYONE should own a MultiMeter anyway…so if you don’t have one, get one. If money is tight, get just the continuity tester and TEST IT on a piece of wire before using it to investigate your stick.

  1. Set your multimeter to the continuity tester mode…in this mode if there is a connection between the two leads, your MM will emit a loud “beep”. Some cheapass MMs will only give you a visual indication…they suck. Try to spend the money on a Fluke if you can afford it.

  2. Put the leads on the two terminals for one switch, and have someone move the stick in the correct direction to trigger the switch…if the switch is working, the circuit should close and the MM should BEEP to indicate a working circuit. Repeat this for each switch.

If the switches are working…check the wiring…make sure none of the insulation has been stripped off between the switches and the PCB.

If its not the stick or the wiring…you will need a new PCB.

If it IS the stick or wiring…you can replace either the entire stick or the switches/wiring. All of these parts can be had from Akihabara shop in Japan (website).


Sorry for not being more clear, I have the Mad Catz arcade stick, not the TE the standard version.

Here are some pics that I took, sorry about the quality…i had to use my phone.


My steps for how to test each switch should still apply for that stick:

In the second pic, those large solder balls on the bottom side of the stick PCB are the terminal connects for each switch…test the switches at those points and you should be good to go on knowing where if its the switches.

HOWEVER: If the traces on the board are damaged, then testing AT the switches will only tell you if the switches are working.

To test the switch + PCB combination, you want to test the leads of the 5 pin connector.

It has 5 pins:

Common Ground
Switch 1
Switch 2
Switch 3
Switch 4

You need to test for continuity between Common Ground and Switch X for each switch…it should be an open circuit when the switch is not activated and a closed circuit when the switch lever is depressed (or vice versa possibly, but the important thing is that you see TWO states…circuit OPEN and circuit CLOSED and that those two states are triggered by activation of the switch lever).