So I saw the 360 Atrox was only 80 on Amazon. Would this be a good stick to start trying mods on? I never done any modding (other than switching buttons and stick), but it’s always been something I wanted to try.
If you ask me No.
My big issue is the case, the outer shell is prone to breaking.
I’d say get a used mad catz brawl/sfiv stick, it’s pretty good for mods.
Not as spacious as other sticks though. Don’t go filling the thing with PCBs and wires
If you can get an empty Mad Catz TE kit, those have plenty of room for PCB’s once you do some plastic cutting.
I can’t speak for the TE2’s since all my stuff is generation-1 TE BUT Mad Catz did tend to put in a LOT of internal plastic that doesn’t seem to do much of anything in those cases. That’s mainy the “web”/“button hole” mesh crap that really doesn’t do much of anything from what I can see. Cut away a little bit of it then there’s plenty of room for PCB’s the size of Cthulu’s and Akishop’s boards. That’s pretty much 80% of anything (PCB-wise) in production now. Where it gets tight is with older boards like the Hori’s “generic” licensed HRAP boards like the American Tekken 5 (soldered-in buttons) PCBs but those are rarer and mostly Japanese market product. The US-release joysticks generally have much smaller boards (HRAP 3, HRAP V, current generation, Mad Catz joysticks) that’ll do very well for anything the size of an old Dreamcast Arcade Stick case to the Mad Catz Brawl stick and bigger.
I might be putting some stuff up for sale in the near future… Hint, hint… But I gotta keep my mouth shut here.
This thread really isn’t appropriate for that.
Too bad to hear about the Razer Atrox case issues… I just knew something about it was too good to be true.
I haven’t had many issues with my Hori cases. My main issue with the new V-style cases is that it’s just not as easy to replace parts as it was in the HRAP 1/2/3 style case cab BUT everybody’s taken Mad Catz’s lead and has gone with wider, narrower cases.
The worst thing about the Mad Catz TE’s is their tendency to scratch easy but that can fixed with careful painting and just being careful about how you stow them and where you place them. Half the stuff people do to them is from eating food when they’re playing (YUCK!) or just not putting things away properly.
I bought my 360 atrox used for 80€, then modded it with a UFB and a neutrik. I really like it. For the money ive got a full sanwa multiconsole stick with alot of wristspace and no screws that sit on The plexi.
The turbobuttons are usefull for stuff like touchpadkey, l3, r3 etc.
Offcourse of the case were to break iT would-be be a bad thing but its stil going strong atm.
I picked one up and mine feels really solid, im getting the impression the case quality changed with the xbone model, can’t confirm. The buttons & PCB are worth 80 alone it’s a great mod kit imo.
You can do something like use a undamned USB to ps360 plus or Brook Universal PCB or whatever gamepad to make it work with anything without messing with the wiring inside in it. The UDUSB takes the USB signal and splits them to different signals for input. You can do the same with a Xbox 360 or Ps3 stick of your choice. I’m not sure if there are exceptions as long as the stick in mention works for one of the 2 systems.