Is this schematic good? plus a few questions

The teal wires represent all the control signals that come out of PCB’s so that should come out to 30 wires going into the terminal with 2 wires per socket as they share the same signal and 15 wires coming out of the same terminal at the opposite end. As well the 2 PCB grounds will go into one socket and the 3 stick and button ground wires will go into the connecting socket. (This is correct right?)

I know it should say 3.3v not 5v.

A few more questions.

  1. Since the Cthulhu and the 360 controller are hooked up through power, if I ever wanted to connect the controllers simultaneously to a 360 and PS3 can i just plug in the usb into the PS3 from the Cthulhu and that would be enough to power the 360 board as well (after removing the battery)?

  2. I am trying to make this project as solder free as possible (the reason behind using screw terminals and not soldering directly to the Cthulhu board), when connecting the power can I just solder the power line from the wireless controller and put it in the screw terminal on the Cthulhu board labeled VCC? Ground as well?

3)I know where to solder on the wireless controller for power but for connecting the ground between PCB’s, do I just solder the wire to ground on the “Y” button and connect that to the Cthulhu board?

Two potential problems. If both the cthulhu usb and 360 wireless battery is plugged in, it may have too much voltage flowing through and may blow a fuse on console. Also last I checked, the 360 wireless isn’t completely common ground when it comes to the triggers. They each have their own “commons” I think, so you may have to ditch them or figure out something fancy for getting them to work.

From the Ground Terminal, you do not need another wire to both Cthulhu and Xbox 360 PCB (choose one).
Since there is already direct connection of each PCB’s Ground, why connect two PCB again from Terminal Strip?

So one wire to connect the Ground of each PCB together.
Then another wire for Ground from either PCB (you choose) to Terminal Strip.

Or do from Terminal Strip to both PCB.
Get rid of direct connection.

Yea I’m thinking about ditching the triggers myself, too much of a pain in the ass and really not needed. Thanks for that info.

But, what I mean was using the wireless controller while the Cthulhu is in with the battery removed so only the PS3 would be powering both PCB’s. Would that be enough or too much power?


Thanks as well.

I was thinking of making it physically impossible to to hook up batteries while the ps3 is plugged in. Sure you can remember to remove the batteries, but if you forget one day, you might be upgrading to a ps3 slim sooner than you think. I was thinking you would have to rig a detachable battery compartment over a Neutrik USB plug or something making it physically impossible to have both plugged in at the same time.

5V is correct, not 3.3.

interesting. but that won’t happen often, in fact, I am even thinking of not including the battery, wireless is not that much of an issue (plus I really wouldnt know how to make a special battery compartment). The reason I’m picking wireless because that’s the only spare CG controller I have.

But can if I just connect the cthulhu USB to either a 360 or PS3 that would be enough to power the 360 board right? So basically I’ll only need one USB cable (Play and charge kit not needed), right?

according to this schem it’s 3.3

What if you just use a relay or transistors to make sure that if there is any input voltage seen at the PS3 port, it would disable every other port…

Don’t try to dual mod with wireless boards.

If, I was to take advice from anyone, it would be you. So I will use a Madcatz controller. But, why do you say this? Is it because you need transistors/diodes/resistors?

The madcatz controller can be bought really anywhere right? How will I know it is the late model? The schem that I drew up is perfect for the madcatz right?

Just go to your local electronics store, like BB, Fry’s, etc. They move enough stock and I’ve only gotten the late models so far. sells them as well. A little more expensive than just buying it retail.

As far as your schematics, you will either need some kind of switch (cables froms each pcb goes to one cable, switch to switch between the wires), 2 cables (one from each pcb), or an IMP board. I prefer the IMP as you can use a single cable and use the Imp to switch between systems.

Nope, it’s all about power. Connecting the power like that will cause the cthulhu to always be powered. Even if everything else went beautifully, the cthulhu would drain your batteries way quick. I also dont know if the 360 pads would be happy with the 5v voltage from the USB line, or any number of other things that would likely go wrong.

If you want it now, or want it wired, make both wired and use the many threads here for dual pcb mods to guide you.
If you absolutely want it wireless for both, you’re going to have to wait while we try to get a solution created.

What I think I am gonna do is just keep the madcatz wire attached and install a rack to keep the wire on or something. I’ll connect the the Cthulhu to a Neutrik USB gender changer so that cable will be removable. Or what I could do is connect both PCB’s to a USB hub. I’ve read those actually work.

I don’t want to buy an Imp board and solder the connections, it’s not that important to me.

One last question, you need a hex inverter to solder the triggers right? (If so, then fuck it, I don’t really need them anyway)

A big thanks to all of you for your help.

Thanks for that explanation.

bump for my last question