I've read the stickies and all the info went in one ear and out the other

I have a bit of a problem, don’t know if its me and my weak flailing arms or the joystick that I’m using. Basically, I can’t do super move motions in 3rd Strike using my HAPP Competiton Joystick and Hori Fighting Stick EX2.

Do any of you with a HAPP Competition Joystick or Hori Fighting Stick EX2 having a hard time with motions like doing a jump kick, into a linkable light/medium/fierce, and finishing with a super move?

I know of the responsive and precise Sanwa JLF Joystick and plan to have someone make me one. Though, I’m kinda worried that the Sanwa JLF might be alittle over sensitive, is this true? If so, how about Seimitsu?

Why are P360’s so expensive for being notoriously stiff, although people say its precise. I also just read that Industrious Lorenzo are the ones making the quality version. If its true, can those with memory capacity weigh in on the pros and cons and comparisons of the IL P360’s Vs. the P360’s being made in China.

And for those that have tried this out, have you tested the IL P360 Vs. Competition Vs. Sanwa JLF Vs. Seimitsu Vs. any other stuff like MAS sticks? All I want to know is which stick has the most ease pulling off a single super move motion and the accuracy of doing a jump kick, into a linkable light/medium/fierce, and finishing with a super move or even more complicated manuevers?

About gates, I’ve read somewhere that the Japanese fighting scene favors squared gates the most, can anyone confirm? Or testify from your own favorable opinion. I’m gonna make a poll for those that favor a certain stick and gate to give me a better idea and hopefully others. If you have experience with all kinds of arcade sticks, please list the easiest of use in performing motions I said earlier ^_^;

All in all, I want an arcade stick to be fast, responsive, not everly sensitive, and not based too much on performing perfect motions to get moves done.

Money can’t buy what practice can earn. Quit blaming your tools.

whatever you like is what you buy. try before buy.

You may be right, I just found out how to dragon punch on both 1st and 2nd player sides. I’ve been using my old methods of handling a competition joystick. Wasnt working out so I tried handling it like it was a ball top.

I wonder how DP’s were so easy back in the hay day of SFII prime. It feels like the radius in todays joysticks are larger in diameter and harder to reach all those switches.

Anyone know if its possible to lower the circumference to possibly make it easier to pull off moves?

For most players, with some training, the best stick for fighting games (and many other games) will be a JLF or one of the Seimitsu joysticks, and a square gate.

You’ve certainly asked a mouthfull, and forum responses will probably not entirely cover your questions. I have a website with a lot of info on this kind of stuff (maybe I should ask for a link in one of the stickies sometime), but I have not personally had a P360 to test. I can say pretty confidently based on other Happ/IL models it will not do as well for most people trained in various models of joysticks.

I have to agree with Toodles. While all the sticks you mentioned are quality sticks, none of them will make moves easier of their own accord. Practice with the stick will make the moves easier. However, having a stick that suits you best will make practice more enjoyable.

I think the biggest choice you have to make is between square gates and circular gates. After trying both I settled on square because it made more sense to me. Its good to figure out which one you jive with better because this will be the most obvious difference in the way a stick plays. I can switch between loose and tight springed sticks with ease but switching between a square and a circle…not so much.

I voted for Seimitsu square gate. Once you learn the square gate, you can pretty much rock it out with any Japanese stick. I also find that an octagonal gate is easy to use if you are used to a square gate but not so much the other way around. JLFs aren’t overly sensitive but the JLW might be a better choice if you are really worried about it.

Do the desired motion slowly while looking down at the stick and carefully remember how it feels. Listen to the microswitches to make sure you’re doing it properly. Then do it many times over in training mode, thinking specifically about the movement every time you do. Then screw around against the CPU with the specific intent of executing that input properly, still being mindful about the movement as you do it. By the time you forget you’re supposed to be consciously keeping track of the joystick movement, you’ll be able to do it naturally with decent consistency. Do this a few days in a row and you’ll have it down pat with no future problems. :smile:

I prefer a Sanwa stick with a square gate. But you’re not going to have a better execution just by changin the stick. Like others said it’s all about practice and you can even play with a crappy stick when you got used to it. Remember how you have to move the stick to get the motion and just do the moves you have problems with in practice mode.

The Sanwa sticks only need to be moved a short distance. That’s why I had some problems with accidently hiting Up-Right/Left but after playing for some hours I got used to the stick and everything works finde now.:woot:

I recently started using a stick and also had problems with linking combos and doing the supers… now I’m mostly fine doing everything I need to do.


First, find a way to hold the stick where you can do most of the supers easily. It took me a while to find how I’m most comfortable holding the stick.

Practice A LOT!!! Just go to practice mode and slowly do dragon punches making sure you hit all the microswitches. You don’t have to do a dragon punch really fast… take your time with it and work it up until you can do it at the speed of light. Then work your way up to the qcfx2 moves.

  1. The stick should have virtually no effect on your ability to link a jump-in to a crouching move. Thats mostly your timing. The only interface issue here could possibly a converter-lag issue, but you didn’t mention anything about that. Thats just my opinion.

  2. Many games have a input display mode in their training now. Turn this on, and practice all day long. Like many of these guys have said, start slow, don’t be afraid to look down and see what your hand is doing. Speed up the movement, watch the arrows on the screen, and just keep it as clean and consistent as possible.

  3. Again, going along with what many have said here, practicing with a joystick can overcome quality of parts in almost all situations. I’ve played on ~10 different joysticks from various manufacturers, and I’ve only had one joystick that I felt I just could not work with at all (it was the default shadowblade joystick if you’re curious). I would actually recommend using as many different joysticks as possible, different spring tensions, different gates, levered vs non-levered switches, etc. This will give you a chance to hone your skill on movements regardless of your joystick, and then work back from there to figure out which joystick you like the feel of the best.

  4. If you’ve ever played a rhythm game, think of how awkward it was a first. When I first played DDR, I remember failing Boom Boom Dollar on basic for like 2 weeks straight. After about a month of practice, I was moving up to standard/heavy, my muscles and eyes were finally trained enough to figure this out. Think of sticks as the same way, its all about building the muscle memory.

Hope this helps.

Practice, practice, practice.

should’ve ended here.

Your display name suits you.

Oh wow, you guys were right. I just found out in more detail about controlling my character and supers or combo links to supers. I was stupid in thinking that every command needed to be inputed perfectly but thats untrue. All that is needed is medium force into whatever directions you need to do and ending at either foward or diagonal right.

Shoo, have a heart, you were new once too.