Joystick Shaft Question


#1

Hello,

I've played on both the hrap3 and the te s edition sticks and I noticed that the joystick shaft on the te s edition is much lower (or shorter) than the one on hrap3.  So, I am wondering if the te s edition is using a different shaft ? because I would like to have a lower shaft on my hrap3.

Thanks.


#2

No, it is not different Shaft.
All JLF have same length Shaft.

Mounting Bracket between Mad Catz TE and HORI RAP may be different height.

JLF in the TE is mounted with Mounting Plate to Mounting Bracket.

JLF in the HRAP 3 is mounted without the Mounting Plate.
The JLF is directly screwed onto the Mounting Bracket.

The height difference from with Mounting Plate and without Mounting Plate is 1.6mm being.

So, since the JLF in TE has Mounting Plate, the JLF will be 1.6mm relatively lower than JLF in HRAP 3.
Relative to the difference in Mounting Bracket of TE and HRAP 3 I am saying.


#3

Oh, thanks for the response, so can I simply purchase and install a mounting plate on the hrap without doing any/much modifications ? If so, which mounting plate do I need to purchase? I see theres JLF-P1 and JLF-P1-S.

Thanks.


#4

If you want to.

You will also need M3 x 8mm screws and M3 nuts.
They are for attaching JLF-P-1 to the JLF.


#5

Just to make sure, I will need …

JLF-P1 Mounting plate http://www.focusattack.com/products/JLF%2dP1-Mounting-Plate.html

Sanwa JLF-SS-Kit http://www.focusattack.com/products/Sanwa-JLF%2dSS%2dKit.html to attach Sanwa JLF joystick to the P1 plate

and M3 x8 mm screws and M3 nuts?

Thanks


#6

Focus Attack is wrong.
JLF-SS itself is M3 x 8mm Screw and M3 Nut.

Now, to secure the JLF with Mounting Plate to Mounting Bracket is different.
You need M4 x 9mm Screws.

Or whatever other short M4 Screws.


#7

Be careful on which HRAP you buy… The HRAP SA models require the TP-1 flat mounting plate to correctly mount the JLF.

(Not that HRAP models will be much different now… The HRAP 3 is out-of-production – except for limited edition art variants – and so is the HRAP 3 SA. Hori’s standard in-production pro-level joystick cases are HRAP V3/VX {all SA models except for the extremely limited SE releases} and the new Soul Calibur V case version which Hori hasn’t officially named a new HRAP model even though it probably is…)

In the HRAP 3 and licensed variants (Arcana Heart 2, Tekken 5 Japan, all the anime licensed stick tie-ins for the PS2), the JLF mounts by the “plastic wings” on the sides of the joystick’s main body. All JLF’s have the wings attached to the main body (called the JLF-P-2 = body, not the wings). The HRAP 3 while not quite a budget-line joystick was $30 cheaper than the HRAP 3 SA line (which was limited production). The non-universal “JLF-only” joystick mount and use of Hori buttons is what made it cheaper.

(People like me HATED the HRAP 3 non-universal mount… Makes it tougher to mount anything but an LS-56-01 in the HRAP 3 case. You can mount other Seimitsu sticks but you end up using flat mounting plates for the LS-32- and LS-40-01’s in addition to shaft extensions plus extra washers for stick clearance spacing. Lots of extraneous hardware to buy to fit an alternate joystick. Your other option – not recommended if you ever intend to resell an HRAP 3(!) – is to to do some serious drilling, ditch the original mounting plate, and mount alternate stick directly below the faceplate. I like that option even less…)

(The only difference I noticed between HRAP 3 and SA/TE JLF’s is that the HRAP 3 JLF-P-2’s had narrower holes on top where the flat plate screws in. I think they were specially manufactured this way since Hori never expected players to remove the JLF from the HRAP and mount it with a flat plate {which I did when I resold my JLF’s to pay for new parts}. You CAN screw in flat plates on the HRAP 3 JLF’s but have to be careful because you’re creating threadholes in the plastic to secure the mounting plates; that’s right – these HRAP 3 JLF’s don’t have threading in the top holes for the mounting plate screws. You don’t want to use power tools when screwing in flat plates on those JLF’s!)

1.6mm isn’t a huge difference in height. Never really noticed it much between the TE and HRAP line. Frankly, I never noticed much of a difference in height with the JLF between the HRAP 3 SA and vanilla HRAP 3. Doesn’t matter much to me anymore since I shifted out of JLF use over a year ago. Don’t care much for its shortcomings… It’s far from the perfect joystick, IMHO.


#8

Let me make that more complete.

HRAP with no Universal Mounting Bracket

PlayStation 2
HRAP ver.B
HRAP Amazon Edition
HRAP SA

PlayStation 2 with Game License
HRAP Soul Caliber III
HRAP Arcana Heart
HRAP Suggoi! Arcana Heart 2
HRAP Fate/unlimited codes

PlayStation 3
HRAP 3
HRAP 3 Amazon Edition

PlayStation 3 with Game License
HRAP Street Fighter IV
HRAP BlazBlue
HRAP Tekken 6

Xbox 360
None

Xbox 360 with Game License
HRAP Konamistyle Otomedius Gorgeous
HRAP Tekken 6

This is so crazy to me.

The screws for JLF-P-1 to JLF Body is threaded into the nuts that go into the JLF Body.
You will never any time be threading a Mounting Plate screw directly into JLF Body.

What I’m thinking you did was used a screw that was not M3.
And for some reason, you did not put nuts into the JLF Body.


#9

Not crazy…

Hori and Sanwa made a change with a limited production batch of JLF’s…

Wish I had the pictures to show you this, but that’s what I saw. The JLF bodies on at least some of the HRAP3’s and/or licensed variant sticks for the PS2 were different on the top. They were not meant to be equipped with TP-1 mounting plates. You could still do it (I forced the issue at any rate so I could sell a JLF) but I have a definite sense that Hori never expected anybody to equip that batch of JLF’s with the mounting plate. Who but some nut that doesn’t like the JLF would swap out the joystick from an HRAP 3??? ( => Raising my hand. => I did this on a white HRAP 3 and an Arcana Heart 2 joystick. :wink:

There were no hex nuts to be put into anything in the top of those JLF bases… Going from the top, you had to literally create thread paths with the screws to hold the mounting plate on. Possible to do with plastic that’s pliable/soft enough to create thread patterns to hold the screws in. Honestly, I don’t remember if the holes for mounting plate were narrower or wider – I just know they did not have the threads in the plastic to “grip” the standard screws. It’s possible I had to change the screw size to hold down the mounting plate but I was able to do it. (Larger screws to create threads in soft plastic? Again, over a year since I did this and I don’t remember the details. Couldn’t tell you if it was an M3 or M4-size Philips head screw that I used…) I’m not the strongest person in the world but it was certainly easy enough to create thread patterns to hold the screws in. Again, different from the JLF’s that ship with the HRAP SA and Mad Catz TE’s.

With all the variations of parts in joysticks over the years — there were joysticks manufactured with non-standard JLW’s, LS-40’s, LS-56’s and unlicensed knock-off’s of these joysticks in the 1990s – I don’t think it’s that hard to believe that a production change was made for a batch of JLF’s a few years back.


#10

I’m going to open my S!AH2 HRAP to see.
I hope it has the weird JLF you got.

It is the only HRAP I have which does not have Universal Mounting Bracket.


#11

And here I was thinking of changing my HRAP3’s JLF with an LS-58.


#12

Check your JLF.
I want to see if it is weird one like GeorgeC.

If you have one, I will buy it.