Kaytrim Case, paint tips?


#1

Hi,
I have an unfinished case from Kaytrim here and I am trying to figure out how to finish it. I am leaning towards painting it like how zombiecpt does, like the Raiders case seen here: http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912 A nice semi reflective black.

It seems like it is a pain to get the paint to get that reflective gloss, unless the automotive paint he appears to use is easy to work with. I’m just looking for some tips like how many coats of primer, paint etc. I have very little experience in wood finishing, I can use all the help I can get. Thanks!


#2

paint guide

I pretty much followed this guide here:
http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mod-101-how-to-paint-your-computer-case-part-1/3/

My stick is not completed yet but I am on the final stage of waiting for my clear coat to cure. After that I will proceed to final wet sanding stage of finishing.

1000 > 1200 > 1500 > 2000 > rubbing compound > polishing compound > wax > Mirror

For my stick I did something like this.

For all coats of paint I used standard spray cans.

Also another painting tip I stumbled upon is to let your spray can sit in a hot tap water bath for about 10 minutes before painting each time so that the paint comes out more smoothly and evenly. Also make sure that you spray into the air first before onto your box to avoid and odd paint spitting.

Read the care notes and method on the backs of your paints as well.

MDF
Wood filler on any low spots or holes
Sand 100
Sand 200
Sand 400
3 thin coats Primer

  • Wait until dry - 2 hours
  • Wet Sand 400
    3 thin coats Primer
  • Wait until dry - 2 hours
  • Wet Sand 400
    3 thin coats Primer
  • Wait until dry - 2 hours
  • Wet Sand 400
    Gloss Black Laquer
  • 3 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 48 hours to dry
  • Wet Sand 600
    Gloss Black Laquer
  • 3 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 48 hours to dry
  • Wet Sand 600
    Gloss Black Laquer
  • 3 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 48 hours to dry
  • Wet Sand 600
    Oil Based Polyurethane Clear Coat
  • 3 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 2 hours
  • 1 Light coat
  • Wait 3-5 days to cure
  • Wet sand 800
    Oil Based Polyurethane Clear Coat
  • 3 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 2 hours
  • 1 Light coat
  • Wait 3-5 days to cure
  • Wet sand 1000
    Oil Based Polyurethane Clear Coat (final coat)
  • 3-5 Light coats spaced 5 minutes apart
  • Wait 2 hours
  • 1 Light coat
  • Wait no less than 5 days for it to cure
  • Wet sand 1000
  • Wet sand 1200
  • Wet sand 1500
  • Wet Sand 2000
  • Rubbing Compound
  • Polishing Compound
  • Cleaning compound
  • Wax

I’ve just put my final coats of clear on the stick and I am now in the curing phase. I more or less followed the guide that I linked above. I’m definitely going the distance for the high gloss mirror luster.

The most important thing to keep in mind when sanding is to make sure you are level with what ever you are sanding and do not put any pressure on your sanding block. Just make sure it is in contact with the paint and your good.

Also, when wet sanding add about a drop of dish soap to your water for increased lubrication when sanding and clean your paper often in the water.

Hope this was some help.

I’m going to post pics of my finished stick in the stick thread when I’ve got it completed so you can see if my process yields a nice result.


#3

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=158194

Enjoy and can’t wait to see how it turns out.


#4

Great tips in this thread, subscribed for future reference :slight_smile:


#5

Thanks for the tips guys. Wow it’s kind of an intimidating process…:wow: and this is coming from somebody that works in metal finishing! Kaytrim made a nice case here and I don’t want to mess it up.


#6

Ok, I am going to get some Dupli-Color Truck, Van and SUV T90 Universal black paint. How many cans would you guys suggest? Two might be on the safe side…but what you all think?


#7

one can of each is more than enough. assuming you are doing 3 light coats x 3 on each type.


#8

Three coats only? That sounds reasonable…I just bought one can of primer, paint and clearcoat so I should be good to go.


#9

Right, 3 light coats of primer, wait, 3 lights coats of primer, wait and 3 light coats of primer. Then do the same with the color and the clear.


#10

Thanks man, with any luck I can get it to look at least half as good as your stuff.


#11

Haha, my stuff is crappy. The dudes in the link I posted are pros, you should aim for theirs!


#12

Out of fear of getting the 09-posting-new-thread backlash, I’m bumping this thread because I have a question about using filler after primer has been applied.

I’m starting to paint my case and I filled the low spots and gaps. I though I got everything, but there is a small gap on the side. The build is Slagcoin’s Idiot Box - the gap is where the 1/2" MDF meets the main poplar frame. It’s very small (imagine you scratched a needlehead into the wood along with the grain - it’s 1/2" long and maybe a hair’s width deep and wide), but after priming, it’s very visible.

My question is…is it too late to use wood filler? If I wood fill it now, aren’t I just bonding to the 3 coats of primer instead of the wood?