Kitty TE S Work Log and Guide

Here is my work log installing a Toodles Kitty TE S into a Mad Catz Chun Li TE S

Keep in mind, during this time I was working with the Beta test version of the TE-S harnesses for the Kitty TE, so there might be changed with Toodles Production version.

This is not to replace Toodles’ Instruction pdf guide but to complement it, give a different perspective. The Official Kitty class board thread

This guide also applies to the other Xbox 360 Mad Catz TE-S Arcade Sticks.
This does not cover the Regular TE Kitty installation or How to install a Kitty in a SE.

Tools Needed
[]Wire cutters
]Wire strippers
[]Phillips screwdriver (#0 or #1 in size)
]#3 (3mm) metric Allen wrench
[]Electrical tape or Electrical shrink wrap
]X-acto or similar hobby knife
[]Sharpie or similar permanent marker
]Small flat blade precision screwdriver
[*]Needle nose pliers

**Materials **
[]1 TE-S Arcade Stick, Xbox 360 version
]1 Kitty TE PCB
[]6 Kitty TE ribbon cables
]3 Kitty TE-S ribbon cables
1 JLF-H Wire harness, Seimitsu HP5 Wire Harness or Lizard Lick’s TE JLF wire Harness
1 Ethernet cord
1 RJ45 Passthough or other 8/9 Pin disconnect port for Multi-Console
1 Drill with small drill bit (for neutrik mounting)

**Note: **Avoid any other mods, Joystick, buttons, Top panel, art, until you finish with the Kitty.
Mod only 1 thing at a time.

Step 1: Remove top carriage bolts
Remove all 6 top carriage bolts with a #3 hex allen wrench or hex bit. While opening the TE, careful not to press down on the bolts as you unscrew to avoid damaging and striping the plastic threads in the TE case. Twist the bolts but never push down.

Step 2: Disconnect the Joystick
Using a shark x-acto knife or other hobby knife CAREFULLY cut and scrape the yellow/brown hot glue holding the wire harness to the JLF. Remove the wire harness.

Step 3: Free up cables and unscrew main board
Using wire cutters cut the zip ties Holding the various wires and cables together.
Careful not to snip any wires during the process.

Step 4: Label cables V, H and R from the PCB.
Get out a permanent felt point marker like a Sharpie and Label the ribbon cables going from the PCB H, R and V in the same way I have here in the photo below

**Step 5: **Unplugging cables from main PCB
Using your knife, carefully scrape away that Brown/Yellow hot glue.
Now grabbing the ribbon cable by the connector NOT the wires carefully pull out each ribbon cable and the Mic cable. If this process becomes difficult, you can slowly rock the plugs side to side as you pull or use a small flat head screw driver to carefully pry up the connectors from it’s bottom edge.

[]Never pull the ribbon cables by the wires
]Never pull on ribbon cables till all the glue is off
Step 6: Cut and prepare the USB cable
As Toodles said in his Instruction Guide

Measure twice, cut once.
Place your TE Kitty Board under your main PCB, make sure your mount holes are lined up.
Measuring off 1 inch from the Ferrite ring, using your wire cutters cut the USB cable in half
Using your knife cut off about 1 inch of the outer insulation from the USB cord. Start off where you want your cut and lightly cut around the USB cable in a circular pattern, you want to cut deep enough to cut the outer insulation but not the 4 wires inside. Pull off the outer insulation.
Now you should see some bare copper wire and some tin shielding, separate this from the 4 wires inside (Red, White, Green and Black). and pull this to the side. Clip off the bear wire strands and the foil, leaving only the 4 wires.

Using your wire strippers, strip 1/8 of a inch or 4mm of each of the 4 wires. Twist the wire ends.
Now using electric tape or Shrink wrap place some insulation at the end of the cable with a little bit , maybe 2 to 4 mm going over the edge of the outer insulation, like the photo bellow. Do this so the expose parts of the bare wire strands and the foil to not make contact with anything and make a short.

As you can see here I used shrink wrap instead of electric tape, both will work for this mod.
For shrink wrap you need a heat source to shrink the tubing, most people use a heat gun, I just use a cigarette lighter very quickly.

Step 7: Prepare led/ guide area daughter board
Find the guide area. Clean off the RED hot glue that covering those 2 screws which hold the guide area daughter board in place.

[S]Stolen[/S] borrowed from Toodles’ Guide

Flip the board over.

Now only that middle cable, remove the brown/yellow hot glue from it’s plug.
Remove the middle cable. if you label your cables correctly, this should be cable H.

Now find the cable that looks like the picture below. See the one plug with a single wire going off to a smaller section of cable, its marked on the photo, label it K and plug it into the Guide board in the same spot we pulled cable H from.

Step 8: Prepare button the distribution board

carefuly scrape out that red glue out of the crosses on the 2 screws holding that button distrubution block to the TE case.

Remove the 2 ribbon cables CN1 and CN2, using the same process I described earlier.

Find 2 cables that look like the 2 above. On the shorter section of cable, one ribbon cable have 5 pins the other six, write down on the cables which one is 5 and which one is 6.

On the button distribution board, you see 2 connections, one labeled CN1 and one CN2.
Cable 5 should go into connector CN1, while ribbon 6 goes into CN2.

Step 9: More Re-installing Ribbon Cables

Find 2 six pin cabled from the Original Kitty TE kit, not the TE-S Kit, Label them R and V.
plug R and V them into the Kitty board like you see above.

Step 10:
The one ribbon cable from the original Kitty set with a larger plug than V and R is for your joystick directions. Plug one end where you JFL harness was on your TE board. You should see the Joystick labels near the connector on the PCB. Connect the other end on the set of connectors next to where we stick ribbon cable R. The other socket is where our JLF harness will go back too.

Step 11:
Take cable R and connect it to the TE board connector CN5
Take cable V and connect this to the TE board at CN6, you should see one of the pins are labeled USB VCC

Step 12:
Connect cable 6 to CN2 on the TE PCB, and the shorter end behind the RJ45 jack
(it does not matter which connector, behind the RJ45 jack)
Connect cable 5 to CN1 on the TE PCB, and the shorter end to the left of the RJ45 jack
ether port on the side.

Step 13:
Find the 2 original TE ribbon cables R and V (which are still connected to the guide board)
Stick them behind there Kitty counter parts. R behind R , V behind V.

Step 14:
Find Cable K from the Guide board. Stick the 7 pin connector (the one with the single wire) into the main TE PCB. The other end of this cable, the small end goes in between V and R on the inside connector. All you have left of Cable K is the one long cable. Stick this cable into the outside connector on the kitty between V and R.

Step 15: Connect the USB Cable

Use this chat to wire up both ends of the USB cable. Match the color wires to there corresponding terminals.

Key: Red VCC, White Data + , Green Data - , Black GND, X Ignore terminal.

Step 16. Testing.
Now everything is wired up (except the JLF) its time to test our work.
Plug your TE into your Computer, bring up the Control panel applet for game controllers.
Make sure your Start and Back buttons are UNLOCKED.
Check to see it comes up as ‘Kitty TE Edition’. Try out the buttons.

Next Unplug your TE. Setting the Joystick switch to RS, hold Back or Turbo as you plug in your TE. You just Forced Xbox 360 Mode and you should be able to see the Default name for the stick. Bring up the Game controller applet again and test the controller out in Xbox 360 mode.

Step 13: Reattach the JLF.
Using ether the original TE JLF harness or Lizard Lick’s JLF TE harness reattached the joystick to the harness and the other end to the Kitty PCB. Next to the same cable I mentioned carry the joystick directions from the Kitty to the TE PCB.

Set the Joystick slider switch to DP and test your joy stick under both Kitty and Xbox 360 mode. Slide the LS-DP-RS slider to each position on both modes. DP makes the joystick move the POV hat, LS moves X and Y and RS moves R axis and Rotation.
On Xbox 360 mode should notice the LS and RS for the joystick will not work on your PC, this is normal.

As you see the Xbox 360 mode has no X, Y or Z Axis, only a POV Hat. This is normal.

Step 17: Close up
Make sure you first wrap the outgoing USB cable around it the plastic pillars for strain relief.
If you haven’t yet screw in the Kitty and TE PCB, the Kitty board goes under the TE PCB. The plastic supports go though the Kitty and right next to the TE. Screw them in as well as any other boards you haven’t secured yet.You want to tuck in the ribbon cables under that plastic lip and out of the way. Do not forget to plug back in the mic cable if you care about your headphone jack.

Place the Top Panel back into position, being careful not to pinch any wires. Screw the 6 carriage bolts that hold the panel in place securely, but not so tight that you strip the threads. Just like before, do not press down, just rotate the bolts till they come in contact with the top panel. With a Acrylic or Lexan panel, over tightening will crack the panel.

If you have any other mods you want to do, perform them now at this time. Buttons, stick mod/replacement , top panel replacement , art you name it.

Optional Steps: RJ45 Installation

Work in progress.

**Button Remapping Guide **Work in Progress

This applies to both the VLX , TE (and TE-S) Kitty board kits.
Original Post that discuss this is here

Alot of technical stuff there. What I am going to do is have a simplified guide, I am skipping the bit data and the eprom programing that might be too technical for some of our readers and instead focus how the remapping works with just your Arcade stick, or as Toodles call it On-The-Fly Remapping.

Step 1: In Kitty mode hold down Turbo and Guide for at least 15 seconds. If you want at this time push any direction on your joystick, if the joystick light stops glowing the 15 seconds are up and you can start to remap buttons. Remapping do not work in Xbox 360 mode.

Step 2: To remap buttons, the system will register what buttons is pressed as a button assignment going in order.

The Order is
So the first button you pressed will be assigned as Square, 2nd as X and so on.
If you leave out R2, L1 or L2 for a 6 button layout go ahead and assign those to the Select/Back button. Depending what buttons are left out.
Most 6 button layouts that follow the Street Fighter IV configuration leaves out L1 and L2.

If you want the Default PS3 layout for your TE the procedure would be like this
[]X - Square
]A - X
[]Y - Triangle
]B - Circle
[]RB - R1
]RT - R2
[]LB - L1
]LT - L2
This is similar to the VLX, but physically the VLX buttons is in a different order.

Remapping also works for NES, SNES, Saturn, Dreamcast and other systems the Kitty supports. I will update this guide when I have more data for each system.

You can also map multiple buttons inputs to 1 physical button by pressing that button again in remapping.

Reserve Space 5


Great job sir! Always happy to see photo tutorials. This looks like a pretty straight-forward job.

I didn’t know you were still working on this when I first posted. Sorry about that. Anyway, this is really nice of you to make complementary instruction on how to install it. I can’t wait to get it and mess around with it. Really good views in the pictorials. Awesome job.

That is cool. Something tells me you didn’t realize I was going to post more. And thanks for the complement. For the most part, installing the Kitty TE and Kitty TE-S is very easy. The TE-S is a little more involved than the regular TE, but following instructions step by step and properly labling makes this mod not hard at all. The only real challenging part to those who are new to mods are the USB cable cutting.

Just ordered a chun li stick. Really appreciate you doing one specifically for the S. Quick question. Have you gotten a hold of toodles’ final production build for the S harness? Is it the same as the beta you used to make this guide?

For the most part the Beta and production harnesses are the same. The only differences at most are cosmetic. Although I have not physically received the production Kitty TE S harnesses yet I did spoke to Toodles about it.
Also the Kitty TE board remains the same. The only differences with the Kitty TE and Kitty TE S is the addition of 3 more cables.

Thank you, just ordered it from toodles. Going to use your guide and toodles’ together to get this to work. Any chance of a PDF?

That’s awesome news.

I just done some mods to do multi-console. I decided to use a male DB9 instead of a Neutrik RJ-45 passthough.
But when I get to the RJ45 section of the guide I will explain both, ether way it requires a Ethernet cable.

Also I did added a Neutrik usb passthough, as I dislike all stock Xbox 360 cords.

You and I have the same Stripper!
I think it was $32 for me.

Its a good wire stripper, I think mine cost the same price.
It is better than those combination stripper, cutters and crimpers you see everywhere

This is my first time modding, but I have a pretty decent understanding of everything and a good handle on these types of things. Seems like the trickiest part of it is the wire cutting for me, but I think I can handle it.

For the USB cable just take you time. If you cut the loose wire stands thats fine as long as you do not cut the 4 colored wires inside.
As for stripping the 4 wires inside, you only need to strip maybe 2mm worth.

Here is a you tube video by nerrage. it is for USB cord replacement and repair.
What you are doing is very very similar so i posted a link here to help you out.
Big difference is you do nto need a soldering irons since you be attaching the usb wires to the terminals on the TE Kitty.