Korean arcade parts discussion

I too would be interested in one!

Considered me interested!

sign me up as well

I’ll probably make an interest check thread in a bit.

I will make a WTT thread later, but ive been playing on my friends stick that has a korean stick in it and i really like it for tekken. THats the only game ive tried it on. Been trying to get by with ls32 for tekken but I want to fit this into one of the t5 cases i have. I have a ls-40 or a ls-40-10 i could trade. both have less than 5 hours on them each. Post here just incase someone tried a kstick and decided it wasnt for them. lol

just adding this link in case you or your friends have access to a drill press so you could make your T5 Korean compliant…

[tekken-5-hrap-korean-modding-tutorial](Tekken 5 Hrap - Korean Modding tutorial

Rygod- Thanks for the link, ive mounted enough ls32/40’s in the t5 case so its pretty straight forward with the exception of the the 35mm hole. Dont feel like buying the right bit so just gonna have them cut it on the cnc machine.

quick question, i want to get a green M.Fanta and was wondering which Jap buttons match the green the best. I prefer seimitsu gns.

There isn’t to my knowledge…the greens are of different shades…they might come close but don’t match exactly.

Does anyone know of how well the Crown 307-FJ handles and compares to a Crown 303-fk?

I just modded my crown 303-FK with the kit from focus attack and the diagonals seem to have gotten better. In some ways, I find it worse to have both the lighter microswitches and harder “60” rubber. The stick feels better with both in (KBD SO much better); However, when ever I try to wavedash (unless I’m really grinding from D to F) I end up skipping the DF (F N DF).
I’m going to try the stock crown rubber with the lighter microswitches to see how that performs, but it’s not looking good for this mod if I really have to work to get those diagonals out of a wavedash.
Also, I heard that the crown 307 has a larger actuator. Is there any way for me to mod my existing crown 303-fk actuator?
Thanks
EDIT:
I think I need to just wavedash slower and more carefully. Though, I think I know why it skips the DF so much easier.
Since the stick now reverts back to neutral faster, it has a hard time staying on a microswitch. The added tension from the rubber makes it easier for the lever to retract from the microswitch, so the lever needs more force to stay in contact with both microswitches.

Just curious if anyone knows where I could purchase just the silicone grommet for a Crown Joystick… (In my case, a 307)?
Or if that’s even possible.
I heard that possibly FA is attempting to carry Crown’s 307 “ST” version.
But don’t really hear about possibilities of different grommets (like the Korean testers with “50A, 55A, 60A” silicone).

Apologies, If this sounds like a Noob question.

Anyone know where I can order a CWL-307FK-JMS in time for evo?

I believe Paradise Arcade will have the new Crown’s at Evo for sale.

I might have mentioned it on the Airbag thread or this one but I was not very fond of the Airbag lever provided by IST. It was more or less a Myoungshin Fanta lever with Matsushita switches and a bottom metal plate. Everything else was stock. The actuator and the switches didn’t fare well together because they create accidental inputs.

To compensate for it, I replaced the actuator with the Crown CWJ-303 actuator and I was able to perform inputs dramatically better. I was able to perform wavedashes consistently and never had any input errors in the process. The 303 actuator insert hole is much bigger so it was able to fit the Myoungshin’s shaft with no problems.

The CWL-307, at least the full fledged Korean version, has a narrower gate which helps but I will add that the bottom end also adds to it. I was not a big fan of the Matsushita switches being too sensitive especially when the 307 has a bigger actuator. Gersung switches help. I find the Korean and Japanese mounts of the 307 to be playable but not as optimal as I wanted it to be. I have to be more careful when wavedashing or else I have an accidental error.

Thanks, I’ll probably end up giving the crown 307 a try.
Also, I’ve read a lot of talk about how the actuator on the crown 303-FK is too small…or at least smaller than a myoungshin fanta. Is there any good way to mod a actuator? The only thing I can think of is tape and I don’t think that will last more than 10 Mins of tekken movement lol.
EDIT:
Maybe something like a heat shrink tubing might work to add a couple millimeters?

As of right now, the scotch tape is actually holding up very well. The small amount I’ve added has actually helped the stick. I haven’t been playing for more than 10 mins, but I’m sure I can find better materials to increase the actuator 1-2mm (I think the 303FK is 15.5 and the myoungshin 16.5 if I remember correctly). I think I might have some luck with this, the diagonals are a lot better! I wonder who else has tried this…

I played on the crown 303 on Saturday and personally felt little to no difference from the Fanta. Maybe a little stiffer but it responded well.

The CWJ-303 Japanese mounts felt fine even with the stock actuator. Anything bigger wouldn’t fit well with Gersung or Matsushita switches in that case. I will say that the Korean mount version has a bigger gate which I don’t like though.

Gate doesn’t matter.

I don’t even look at Korean sticks having gates in the traditional sense, so I just learned not to attempt to ride it.

I will agree that gates don’t matter at least for the non-traditional mounts because they are pretty universal.

The CWJ-303N-JMS’s gate diameter is slightly larger than the CWL-307-JMS and even Myoungshin Fanta levers. It’s enough for me to get thrown off by it. Even trying to revisit it and I always had trouble with inputs because I had to put more give to hit the edges. It didn’t fit well with my hands.

When I got my 307 and swapped the 303’s top end, that issue became non existent.

To be fair I was on a tangent from LifeisGood’s post anyways.

I might still give the 307 a try.
Also, it’s very hard to change the actuator size. Whenever you add something that’s too thick, the stick automatically becomes mushy/sticky. However, this is mostly due to the material used to add surface area to the actuator (tape works better than rubber). That’s why I’ve reduced the tape to a small amount. However, it makes the stick respond a lot better. For this reason, I think it’s still worth it for me to try a 307-FJ.