Korean arcade parts discussion


The silicon rubber gommet is alot more durable then the original gommets, so the rubber wont soften up over time playing on it.

I have both a makestick pro and a magic stick both uses there own mod of the Myoungshin fanta, alltho Magic stick dont use Moyngshin fanta anymore they seem to use a modified 307 now.


@Fearless I was thinking that probably Samducks opted for shafts with non seperable battops and balltops because they wanted to follow WICO’s method of one piece shaft&handle part, since they used grommets too (design that was recycled for non grommet models with Suzo, IL and Happ with their microswitch models) : Samducksa surely fears the rubber may grip the shaft and eventually unscrew the battop…
How did your Sanwa JLF shaft mod work out? Did it start to loosen and unscrew a bit or not ?

@kkolding Funny you mentioned Istmall.co.kr since I mentioned them on the Zero Delay PCB thread they have the whole ZD style PCB line of products) , but oddly enough they don’t have such a large choice of Samducksa buttons, no sign of the CWB 207 H with 2-pin connector, that has threaded and snap-in design all in one! Did you try that one? And what of the american microswitch style CWB-201-LA&LB ? As for the leaf switch models CWB 202-A & B , what are they worth?

Korean modder “Hibal” tested the 307 line of prototype silicone ST grommets (or “tension rubbers” as they say in Korea) on his website, with a demonstration video :

-translucent “55 hardness” silicone : medium soft
-opaque white “55 hardness” silicone : slightly firmer
-opaque white “60 hardness” silicone : even firmer feel perhaps a tad too much for him according to what I understood, he finds it too tough and tiring.

He speaks of compatibility with preexisting model 303.

Hibal has another test page and vid on youtube where he tests proto grommets for 307F : 2 black rubbers at “60 hardness” and 2 silicone grommets, one opaque white at “45” and one translucent at “50”.
these are not mentioned in the article I posted just above (which is the 2nd test in fact). He clearly states they are prototypes that may not coincide with final production models.
Hibal’s initial test with 45-60 “hardness” tension grommets:
Here he states that the 45 may really be too weak for centering, whereas 60 may be too strong

**Compare with korean modder Kuenste’s 307F test where the ST silicone grommet he uses in the 307F seems completely loose and unusable (absolutely shitty centering, must watch) compared to all the silicone models tested by Hibal, even though Hibal himself thought the “45” St silicone would be too soft and not precise enough!! **
Perhaps the model tested by Kuenste is even softer than the super soft 45 Hibal wasn’t so pleased with?
Is the soft grommet tested by Kuenste a proto or the production model ST silicone? Since Kuenste tests only one rubber and one silicone, one would immediately think of the only two grommets used for final release, but we need confirmation.
Kuenste’s demonstration :

Worth noting: in his first grommet test, Hibal clearly says the korean Tekken 7 cabs have 307 ST “60” grommets (unless I poorly understood) . What’s going on… I thought the retail ST silicone grommet was supposed to be “soft” as advertised by Samducksa (you can see the advert in this same thread : rubber normal, silicone “soft” … ) ? If someone who understands korean could help us out…
Anyways “60” is not soft at all according to Hibal’s test.

In this article , Hibal speaks of which lever models are used in Tekken cabs in Korea (confirms 307F-ST as official in Tekken 7 cabs) and which seem best for console fightsticks :

Hibal again tests various proto actuators on the 307F lever ( 20.7mm 21mm & 21.2mm ) :

what about the “silent” 307F levers, they are fitted with leafswitches , reviving in a sort the dreaded 304 model , which brings me to ask if the 307 silent are as bad as the 304 ? (by the way, Samducksa doesn’t feature the Crown 304 leaf model on their english site, only on the korean version) . So did anyone test the silent one, and if so is there a substantial improvement concerning the leaf durability and tendency to deform quickly compared to 304?

Last but not least, Hibal’s complete 307 model test and comparison with 303 and Sanwa JLF (I’m a bit skeptical of his evaluation of the return to neutral aka centering qualities when comapred to JLF ) :


@kkolding is there a possible way to get a white bat top instead of that clear version crown has? That one in the pic of the modded fanta you posted makes me want one lol.


Don’t know where to get one, other then from Green Arcade in Seoul Korea, paid 50 dollars for it.


Damn…right now I have a custom shaft to for balltops etc on mine and I put that new clear bat top from sanwa on it…looks sweet…just afraid of cracking over time…


Good stuff with Hibals reviews, I have never seen thoose buttons you refer too, nor tried them. is there any pictures of the lying around?


apart from the pics on samducksa.com, never seen them anywhere. Laugh doesn’t sell them, neither does istmall.co.kr

Threaded + snap-in all in one : http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=362
US style microswitch : http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=109
Leafswitch: http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=113


Paradise arcade will have those buttons soon.


Edit…sorry Agieze already posted link to buttons.


I used that stick for about a year with the mesh balltop and I never had any problem with it… just need to get used to it, since is shorter than the original battop.
With the Sanwa’s battop was way different, it gets loose very often but then I always had problems with those, even when some customers asked me to build them fightsticks with JLF of LS-32 and a battop.
So, for me the balltop works great, with the battop it works just like usual. But I have to tell you, unless you want to have another color for the battop or one of those made of aluminum, is way better to go with the original from Fanta or Crown.


@Fearless you’ll agree that since the sanwa balltop passes the playing test and not the bat top, it means the bat has just that extra leverage that will be enough to unscrew itself . The threaded end on the JLF shaft isn’t very long neither.
The battops I’ve seen on JLF never came off probably because they were custom made plastic type, with the insert recessed deeper into the handle , the insert being a thick one , brand name . Sanwa seems to go the opposite route thse days, the new clear bats being slightly less recessed from what I’ve read.
Anyways it’s good to have a short shaft solution, thanks for the input, personally I prefer short as possible for shmups and fighters, but do not care for beat’em alls. Did the JLF shaft on the koreans

It would be interesting to hear what players think of the silent crown 307. If ever you give it a try tell us!

@d3v there was a bug with the posting of my reply (the one stuffed with links) to Fearless and kkolding in this thread : it didn’t appear , it came back to a blank form, so I had to rewrite it from scratch immediately after but now I see both versions are online (hours after)… please delete the second one which basically is almost the same…


The non-clear white Crown comes from Joytron EXchanger. They used to sell them separately as “white cone joystick” on ebay and exportprive.com


Well, as I said before, I’ve tried some models of Crown already, but they don’t feel the same for me, but still want to try out the 307.
I will order one as soon as I have money for it and I will let you know my thoughts about it.


Swap out the buttons, and the EXChanger’s a great stick.


From what I get, most of the sticks on this list can use some part swapping.
So EXChanger’s joystick is fine?


Looks like they are using a white Taeyoung fanta.

I found out that I actually, visited Samduckso’s office twise. last summer they didn’t have thoose button’s. but tbh the crown buttons plastic sucks, good functionality tho.


This seller on ebay sells the makestick pro http://www.ebay.com/sch/Video-Games-Consoles-/1249/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=madfiance


For those of you who want to modify a existing stick to accept a Fanta joystick,
The opening needs to be 35mm, in reference the opening for a Sanwa JLF is 24mm.


when mounting the sticks with the grommets that stick out, what is mounting height? How much of the grommet has to stick out? Do you mount with the mounting plate flush to the metal panel or do require the use of spacers?


Good Question.