Korean arcade parts discussion


Good stuff with Hibals reviews, I have never seen thoose buttons you refer too, nor tried them. is there any pictures of the lying around?


apart from the pics on samducksa.com, never seen them anywhere. Laugh doesn’t sell them, neither does istmall.co.kr

Threaded + snap-in all in one : http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=362
US style microswitch : http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=109
Leafswitch: http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=113


Paradise arcade will have those buttons soon.


Edit…sorry Agieze already posted link to buttons.


I used that stick for about a year with the mesh balltop and I never had any problem with it… just need to get used to it, since is shorter than the original battop.
With the Sanwa’s battop was way different, it gets loose very often but then I always had problems with those, even when some customers asked me to build them fightsticks with JLF of LS-32 and a battop.
So, for me the balltop works great, with the battop it works just like usual. But I have to tell you, unless you want to have another color for the battop or one of those made of aluminum, is way better to go with the original from Fanta or Crown.


@Fearless you’ll agree that since the sanwa balltop passes the playing test and not the bat top, it means the bat has just that extra leverage that will be enough to unscrew itself . The threaded end on the JLF shaft isn’t very long neither.
The battops I’ve seen on JLF never came off probably because they were custom made plastic type, with the insert recessed deeper into the handle , the insert being a thick one , brand name . Sanwa seems to go the opposite route thse days, the new clear bats being slightly less recessed from what I’ve read.
Anyways it’s good to have a short shaft solution, thanks for the input, personally I prefer short as possible for shmups and fighters, but do not care for beat’em alls. Did the JLF shaft on the koreans

It would be interesting to hear what players think of the silent crown 307. If ever you give it a try tell us!

@d3v there was a bug with the posting of my reply (the one stuffed with links) to Fearless and kkolding in this thread : it didn’t appear , it came back to a blank form, so I had to rewrite it from scratch immediately after but now I see both versions are online (hours after)… please delete the second one which basically is almost the same…


The non-clear white Crown comes from Joytron EXchanger. They used to sell them separately as “white cone joystick” on ebay and exportprive.com


Well, as I said before, I’ve tried some models of Crown already, but they don’t feel the same for me, but still want to try out the 307.
I will order one as soon as I have money for it and I will let you know my thoughts about it.


Swap out the buttons, and the EXChanger’s a great stick.


From what I get, most of the sticks on this list can use some part swapping.
So EXChanger’s joystick is fine?


Looks like they are using a white Taeyoung fanta.

I found out that I actually, visited Samduckso’s office twise. last summer they didn’t have thoose button’s. but tbh the crown buttons plastic sucks, good functionality tho.


This seller on ebay sells the makestick pro http://www.ebay.com/sch/Video-Games-Consoles-/1249/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=madfiance


For those of you who want to modify a existing stick to accept a Fanta joystick,
The opening needs to be 35mm, in reference the opening for a Sanwa JLF is 24mm.


when mounting the sticks with the grommets that stick out, what is mounting height? How much of the grommet has to stick out? Do you mount with the mounting plate flush to the metal panel or do require the use of spacers?


Good Question.



Basic instal guide for Korean Fanta sticks


Hard to believe it’s been 5 years since I made that. Thanks for linking el greco.


I scrolled though the page el greco links us and found this

So about the same under the panel clearance as a Sanwa JLF.
I don’t know the over the panel mounting distance.


you need 2,5 - 3mm above the panel


For the sake of preservation - photo dump of images I saved back in 2006

“Korean - Crown Round Actuator Deco Switches”

“Korean - Crown Round Actuator with Plate”

first sabi
http://i61.tinypic.com/28v63rk_th.jpg first mass made stick in Korean “Sticknara” (large photo) this is what the Korean TTT-1 players used when they came to the states.