Korean arcade parts discussion


I’m not saying don’t make a lever @TekkenKazi . But all you’ve done is go on about this lever. trying to sell it right out of the gate, and changing it many times, but posting reviews for something you aren’t selling. I of course want to see more Korean stuff make it here. we all love Korean Arcade products. I want you to do well. But what you are trying to sell, we all do here already. you should wait to talk about selling stuff until you have a product to offer. and not bring all the changes up on here etc. if it’s the KAZI lever, Kazi should be designing it. not changing every time someone here says this is good that etc, or using parts people here already helped to make like the entire group here did last year to get the Golden stuff. Make the Kazi the same as Airbaguy does the Fujin, or SuperHwoarang does theirs. Follow a model that others made. comunity imput is good. but showing up like a door to door salesman trying to sell me the brooklyn bridge is just kinda shady tactics.
good luck. I have no personal issue. I don’t want to drag this place down, or put a target on my back or make enemies. I want to just help where I can and that’s it. I know I wasn’t alone in thinking what I posted. so I’ll leave it alone. apologies to anyone I pissed off with the long words.


Looks like it’s probably just me then, I’ll continue hitting the lab. Thanks!


Anyone one of you guys try that microswitch mod that Superhwoarang (I think it was him) tried? I been thinking about trying it on some Gersung A2’s to improve it’s actuation a tad bit earlier. Tape makes me feel “meh” but you can yank it back off if you don’t like it.


I think you’re talking about Hibals? With the tape under the plungers inner base right? I did it on a set of AM5s and it made em feek very good. Cleaned them out a bit and it make them feel pretty much new.


No sweat man. Depending how you got the lever right now, any mods or not you can try some different stuff out to help. Just curious what character you use / any specific diagonals. You should look into getting a different actuator to help with the coverage too perhaps.


I’m using it with the 35a grommet. I’m having the most issues with trying to KBD and getting down/down back instead of just down back. I’m trying to slow down and really get the feel of the diagonal and can hit it maybe 50-60% of the time without getting down first. Oh and I’m playing Lars.


Yes sir, that’s the one. When you say you cleaned them out, you mean like contact cleaner? Then air duster? I was thinking if I did it and had to go back, the part where the plastic base meets the metal contact point would need to be swiped or cleaned some how. Swab of some sort.


Hello guys, sorry if this has been already asked:
whats the difference between the crown 309helpme lever and the Myoungshin Fanta lever? what’s better?
thanks a lot!


Almost everything is different between the 309 Helpme vs Myoungshin fanta. Their only real similarity is that they are both Korean mounted style lever. Which is better is clearly a preference question that you will get anecdotal answers.

For the most part, just looking at some pictures of both will tell you a lot.

What the pictures won’t tell you are things like:
• they both have different base. Crown’s base mold, to me, is superior to Myoungshin. A lot of people make modifications to Myoungshin’s base because the microswitches don’t sit flush (flat against the base), they actually sit at a slight angle. Which could result in a later actuation.
• the grommets are made of different material. Myoungshin uses latex. Crown uses silicone. Both have different feel. M-fanta’s shore rating is at 50a. While 309 helpme is 35a. Imo, even though Myoungshin is more, there’s switch actuation happening before the grommet comes into play. If I remember correctly, when I first got my Myoungshin (not the newer IST version), I thought it was just a loose lever. But in reality, most of my movement was happening before the grommet was really doing some work. In some ways, I’d say it acted more like a gate of some sort. The 309 helpme has earlier grommet activation versus the Myoungshin’s but at 35a it’s not going to tire you out as quick. Even though the 309 helpme has a grommet at 35a shore, it’s slightly thicker. It’s ability to return to neutral isn’t hindered at all IMO.
• Crown uses a spring to help reduce wobble that could cause unintended inputs from deflection from the return to neutral. Myoungshin doesn’t use one but that doesn’t mean it’s necessary. Some people prefer the wobble.
• Myoungshin’s collar hole is bigger (I think?) Which means a further throw. Tbh, like a said earlier, the grommet acts like a stage 1 gate before hitting the collar. I don’t remember riding the collar so much on a stock Myoungshin. The crown 309 helpme seems like I ride the collar more. Which says a couple things: 1. Throw isn’t as far (which could be something people prefer) 2. Diagonals may feel tighter on the Helpme. I hit the collar every time I go for a diagonal input on the Helpme, sometimes you may have to dig a little deeper on the input than one would be accustomed to. Also results in more collar knock (noise). Something to consider if you game while people sleep.

I’m trying to think of some other things that pictures won’t tell you. But can’t think of anything else at the moment. Maybe some other ppl will chime in.

This is purely my opinion, but which is better out of the box? Bone stock? Imo, the 309 help me. I swap back and forth between a modded M-fanta and a stock 309 helpme. I don’t feel a dying need to change it. My crown 309 Helpme came with discontinued Panasonic microswitches though. I can’t really give any input on it with Gersung A3’s (1623a3), but I hear good things about it.

Hope this helps.


thanks a lot for your reply,very deep and specific.
I forgot to mention that i already own a crown 309helpme (the one that comes with the japanese micro switches) and the taeyoung fanta. with the 309 im feeling definitely better,no diagonal issues, but i find it “loose” when it returns to neutral.
is it worth get the m-fanta or its just a waste of money since i already have the 309? let me know, thanks


If I was in your shoes and liked the 309 over the Taeyoung, I would use that money towards the next step up in resistance. Which would be the 45a grommet for crown’s 309. This would test if your return to neutral is better while still keeping a lever that you favor. Imo, the 45a is a little stiff for me in a long session of game play, but that’s just me. I’ve heard of ppl breaking it in after awhile. Either that or they got stronger lol.


good idea, thanks! have you ever tried the taeyoung?


Sorry man, I haven’t tried it yet. Taeyoung seems solid though. Most complaint I can recall on them is the stock actuator.


TLDR: New GF stuff is awesome. Was asked to post by @wazwuz I hope it is useful.

This is a little breakdown of the latest parts from Arcade Stick Indonesia’s “Golden” Lineup. First I will go over the Actuators. for those of you that own the original brass GF actuators, there is now newly redesigned brass actuators. these ones are lighter, and also compatible with all fanta style levers, including the Fujin V2 now. they have the same design as the new Delrin based actuators.

These are all great depending on what you need them for, and now you have options, if you prefer something with a little heavier feel you still have that, and the Delrin ones offer amazingly built actuators, without the weight. I was able to weigh the original GF Brass, the NEW GF Brass, and the Delrin GF Actuators. they are as follows:

Old GF Brass: 
14.5mm: 18.9g
15mm: 19.6g
15.5mm: 20.5g
16mm: 21.7g
16.5mm: 22.6

New GF Brass:
14.5mm: 14.5g
15mm: 15.5g
15.5mm: 16.2g
16mm:  16.6g
16.5mm: 17.4g

New Delrin GF
14.5mm: 2.33 g
15mm: 2.45g
15.5mm: 2.61g
16mm: 2.68g
16.5mm: 2.81g

I also weighed the original GF Brass Core, as well as the new GF Delrin Core:
Golden Core Brass: 22g
Delrin Core: 3.77g

with these options, you will be able to find something to suit your personal playstyle, and needs. I actually mixed and matched between brass, and delrin to create some great combos for my own personal use.

The new Golden Fanta Grommets, made with Shin Etsu silicone, I was only able to test the Blue, and Green ones. I tested against the Original GF grommets, Stock Myoungshin, Stock Taeyoung, the ISTmall newer colored set. With the new Shin Etsu silicone, I think they are definitely an improvement on the original GF grommets. these feel perfect when it comes to giving me that nice “Tight” tension I require in a grommet. unlike the IST grommets, that can start out feeling good, but after about 20 minutes of play, kinda lose their feel, these Shin etsu grommets feel great, even with long sessions.

They dont have any “Mushy” type feel. all the directions feel great. I mostly prefer the stock Myoungshin 45 latex grommet, with my lever, and these New GF ones have become my go to. I prefer the Blue, as I like them to be a bit stronger in tension. they held up perfectly. Once the entire kit is available, I think you will be able to find something to suit your needs. They kept my Tekken movement very tight and accurate, my wavedashing and kbd movement was very good with these grommets and I can say the Blue will now be my main Grommet of choice, with the
Delrin Core bushing.

with the new microswitches being offered, there is two. the Omron V-152-1A5 and the Hanyoung SVM-6171. Wazwuz is on a mission to try to find a suitable replacement for the Panasonic AM5 switches we all love. and these two switches come as close as I have seen so far.

The omron switches were very good for me at about 15, 15.5mm Actuator (I usually prefer 14.5mm however I didn’t like my diagonals with this combo). I find the Omron work great at this range, and can be very great for anyone who prefers this range of mid size actuator to the largest at 16.5mm I had no problems. with the Hanyoung, I really do prefer this over the Omron, but only in my ideal setup. The switch is very Tactile. It has a great feel and is nice and loud. I found that using this switch in a Taeyoung body with 14.5mm Switches was amazing, easily as good as an am5, and they continued to be good right until 15.5 for me. The only time I did not like the Hanyoung was in the Myoungshin body with the 14.5mm Actuator, as the switch placement was further away, and it sometimes could make your diagonals miss.

If you want to use hanyoung in myoungshin, I say stick with 15mm to 15.5mm. Both Switches for me can be used in place of an AM5. I absolutely prefer them over the Gersung A3 or A2 we normally get as a substitute. Wazwuz really worked hard on improving his product. he listened to suggestions from the comunity, and I think he did a great job.

The fact that Lowhigh placed 7 In EVO Japan last night, shows that these new products are very much proven to be good. He dropped playing a Fujin V2 to use these parts. He’s said to Wazwuz and myself during testing that the parts he is using is “the closest you can get to the Green Lever”, without actually having them. Specifically the new Green Grommet. He has been a vital part of our testing, and I tend to believe if these parts are good enough for someone placing 7th in Evo Japan, then they are good enough for anyone who uses Korean levers and parts.

If you liked the original items in the Golden Fanta series, I think you will love these. If anyone has any specific questions, don’t hesitate to get in touch. I wanted to try to keep this “To the point”.
James / YKD


I might have to purchase a new set of Golden Fanta parts. The OG ones were great but with the addition of the support plates, core bushing kit, and the new green grommet it made the Fanta experience even better.


Nice breakdown man. The weight differences are interesting. I was also curious if there was anything out there close to the AM5’s and this seems hopeful. I’m curious how the new green grommet feels versus the OG one.

Same here man. I don’t have that upper support switch plate. New delrin hardware and silicone grommets seem enticing. Some good switch options too? Hmmmmm

Edit: just noticed he was some things individually in his shop versus buying whole kits.


That happens to be like the Green lever setup, huh? 14.5mm actuator but with AM5’s. Though you’re using 55A vs 45A.
Just find it interesting how you find the travel a problem, but it’s how Green’s set up to be like. Unless I’m missing some critical detail.


@wazwuz Hey I purchased the both support plates for the micro switches and the new delrin actuators/core. Is the core meant for the fanta grommets? Or are they specific to the grommets on your website? Or is the fanta grommet the same dimensions/fit as the ones you provide?
Also, what are the dimensions of the myoungshin actuator (including ID and length) as well as taeyoung. I’m asking because I used the myoungshin actuator on my taeyoung for a week, and it was a tight fit (ID was small and length was too long) so when I decided to switch back to my myoungshin, I took the actuator out of my taeyoung and noticed dust caused from wear on the length and ID of the actuator and the surface of the taeyoung core. Now when I put the actuator back into my myoungshin, it has a larger neutral zone which is bothering me.


@ykd mentioned “Hanyung SVM 6171” switches.

It seems the exact same switch is found under various other brand names, probably because these brands distribute and rebrand : Paragon Electronics SVM 6171-02, Yun Myung SVM6171-02 etc etc.
Paragon specializes in distributing taiwanese components.

Switch SVM 6171-02 specs at Yun Myung (02 stands for hinge ) :


Comparing specs with Panasonic AM5 switch at 180gf :

*SVM6171-02 and Panasonic switches both have max180gf operating force (pana is exactly max 180.5gf) , both have also16A rating and 30gf release/reset force (pana is really 29.57gf) and pretravel distance (3.2mm) is exactly the same on both spec sheets.

*SVM617102 has 1.2mm overtravel while the panasonic AM5 plunger goes a bit deeper at max 1.4mm past the actuation point .

*SVM617102 has a bit more movement differential at 1.2mm while Panasonic has only 1mm

*SVM617102 operating point location fluctuates a tad more ( 15.37±0.1mm) than the panasonic one(15.3±0.1mm) .

The switches overall indeed have very close actuation specs, on paper at least.

Korean company Yun Myung has arcade levers on their website catalog, some arcade models have switches on a PCB as seen on japanese models , but they give no further details about them other than external dimensions :

Clones galore…???


@ykd could you give a review on some of the Derlin stuff? just bought a set myself. Really interested on how the derlin core compares to the metal one and what comparisons you found and the weight of the materials and how it affects the joystick performance, mainly interested in relation to a 7mm and 14.5mm setup.