Korean arcade parts discussion


@zero_requiem @“kodee vu” For microswitches, I know you guys have recommended using 3 AM5’s + 1 Gersung A2 for “down” for fast crouch dash. I tried replicating this with Hanyoungs instead of AM5’s, using a Taeyoung base with a 7mm shaft & 14.5mm GF actuator (I like the greater throw compared to the Myoungshin). When I tried out my wd motion with 1 A2 for “down”, I kept skipping the neutral, inputting “f,d,d/f,f” over and over again. I was wondering if you guys could provide some insight on why this was the case and how it should be done to take advantage of the A2 switch. Most likely it’s my personal technique and/or setup, but I found the result a little extreme.


@wazwuz For a few hours yesterday I played the myoungshin with the mounting and support plates, and the delrin core, 16.5 mm actuator, and the long spring. All directions are even and I favor this mod as much as my taeyoung mod, for different reasons. With myoungshin, my bdc is easier from the p2 side due to shorter throw distance and bigger diameter bat top, but bdc with taeyoung is effortless from p1 side.
Regarding both the support plate and the mounting plate; I spent almost 2 hours filing the holes to make them align properly with the nuts and bolt holes. I understand there is variation in myoungshin bodies from warping/distortion but the bolt holes were out of position from the reference bolt hole by almost a mm in various directions. If I can make a suggestion to prevent this from happening, perhaps make the bolt holes bigger for the support plate and use a washer under the bolt head. The mounting plate might be harder to modify due to the small amount of material separating the nut hole from the pin holes, but I’m sure something can be done.
After I managed to put the mounting/support plates on without any stress/bending, it feels very nice and I’m pleased with the results.

If anybody has experience with the fujin/kaze/airbag lever and the mod that I made for my myoungshin, can anybody tell me if there is a big difference between the myoungshin mod and the other three levers? And whether it’s worth it to purchase those levers if my myoungshin switches is already balanced with a tight dead zone?



@Agieze I’m trying to see how I can recreate the 309 Helpme. From what I gather, it uses the same base, shaft and actuator of the standard 309, and Crown’s own 35A grommet. What really stands out are the microswitches - three GSM-V0323A3 and one GSM-V1623A3 (which I assume is for the “up” input to reduce accidental jumps).

I snooped around the thread’s old posts, and I saw you said the V03 was rated 0.3A & the V16 16A.

I have the V16’s, but not the V03’s. What switches would serve as good substitutes? I have the Omron & Hanyoung switches from Arcade Stick Indonesia, and the stock V1623A2’s from my Fantas though I think they do not help here.


Hey dude.
I have all of these Levers, and honestly if you like what you currently have working it should be good enough, rather than get them. I’m just curious if you mean using your GF setup, in those levers, or the Levers in their stock form? Feel free to hit me up with a private message if I can help you out.


Oh snap, Jeondding has a korean lever installed on a Hori Fighting Edge!


@Hassun beeing on those forums that shouldnt suprise you :confused: we all have korean levers in all the arcade sticks out there that exists .


It is surprising to me obviously since I’ve not seen one installed in the new Fighting Edge.


check PM


Tutorial for buying from istmall internationally?


Hi everyone, I’ve been using a myeong shin fanta on the Makestick for a while
Really liking it so far but I feel like I’m missing downback and downforward too much

Is this just a characteristic of all korean sticks? Are there other korean style sticks that are easier to hit corners with? I’ve read the infiltration stick has a square ish gate option, is that better?





keep making…


Are you having trouble hitting the corners in general, or in specific motions like crouch dash? How you hold & handle the stick is important too.

Personally I dislike the long throw of Fantas. I have to go deeper to hit the diagonals because of it. This is why I prefer the 309MJ, which has a small collar that reduces travel distance. The combination of a small throw + big actuator (16.5mm) is a good combination especially if you have a tighter grip. Essentially, you can ride the collar. It’s still a “circle gate” since it’s a K-stick (by design the corners will not be as big as actual square gates), but the collar will keep you from going too deep when you’re going for the diagonal. Short throw = minute movement. A bit of a right tilt will let you hit the diagonal (and the collar).


I actually have no problem hitting crouch dash motions, its definitely hitting the corner perfectly. I play Bryan in Tekken and about 15% of the time I’ll miss the d/b 2 in the middle of the combo and it’s pretty annoying
Now that you’ve mentioned it, the throw distance on the fanta is really long. I’ve been playing DBZ and trying to do instant air dash (which is u/f to f) feels really awkward and hard to hit

309MJ I’ve been thinking about trying, also thinking about trying the help me lever, do you have experience with that one? Do you know if the makestick case has mounting for Japanese collars?


@Fighterboon check to see if the lever is loose in the stick. If not, then check to see if the switches are loose. I had this problem and I found the bolts that holds the lever to the stick got loose


why the plastic plate if it is just meant to behave like the airbag plate?
According to the pics it can’t be a restrictor plate since the shaft and actuator do not extend deep enough.


If you guys have issues with the mounting bolts coming loose, you can pick up a few lock washers to keep it from coming loose.


15% isn’t too bad. :slight_smile: Buuut I mean seeing that happen a couple times in a session may be enough to ruin my day lol.
And I thought about doing iAD on a Fanta. Smh nope. That throw is just… nope, I ain’t doin’ it. But I haven’t even started DBFZ because I’ve been testing levers.

I’m waiting for the regular 309’s to be restocked myself, so I can’t speak on it.
I had asked Phantomnaut, and he said the two versions felt the same in his experience.
In Hibal’s review of the 309MJ, he said it feels slightly different from the full-collared 309 because a different part of the shaft hits the collar. He did say diagonals are easier on both 309’s though.

A bonus perk of the short collar is that it is much quieter than your typical high collared K-stick. I like that. Hibal noted this in his review too, since he cares enough that he lines the inside of his case with sound dampening foam.

No clue on makestick’s selection tho.


Actually the hole is not for a guide like sanwa type (japanese type) its for adjusting the e-clip (there are two types of korean lever ,the korean lever for 25mm hole stick need it to dismantle it easy)

And switch support make the switches to stay flat and be more steady while playing


your switch support = plastic equivalent of the “airbag” plate , I was right in my guess .
If k-lever bodies weren’t so flawed (plastic too flexible, tolerances are shit, walls are sometimes warped/shrunken/caved in the middle) , they wouldn’t need any securing plate!


still great without the plate, just i wanted to make it better with various try !