Korean arcade parts discussion


Thanks for all the info about that stuff @Agieze I remember you mentioning the Kaze gersungs before the Forum was moved. I’ve heard the Alpha lever isn’t very good, so it’s one I will be avoiding. Glad to see you bring all the stuff up about the “Tuning” of switches as well. Nothing special really. Just a sales pitch.


Hello guys,lately i had a bad feeling with my lever (kinda cannot reach the end of the collar properly) which is the taeyoung fanta, so i decided to open it up and found this:

it seems like a cut in the plastic…
Do you think this is a problem or doesn’t affect anything? Let me know thanks.


Is LowHigh using a golden mod?

Oh snap it’s the final form of the golden mod!



Recently picked up a hori real arcade pro N and im looking to put a Crown CWL-309MJ-KMS-ST25 Joystick in there. is it as simple as picking up the joystick from focusattack and .187 pin to harness? ive used korean sticks and love them, and ive made sticks with japanese parts before, but never korean.


Yep. I have one in mine. Just noticed Kkokkoma at Final Round is using one in his Pro N too.


sick, thanks <3


Could you get a better photo of it? All of the shots where the damage is is unfocused. Can’t really see what it could be.


The Air-bag lever has been out of stock for a long time now! anyone know why??


Panasonic switches are not easily available.


Hello, I have a question regarding the New Seimitsu 2017 LS-32, LS-40 .187 Fastener Microswitch: How do I change the curved fasteners with the straight ones without damaging them? Reason I’ve asked was because I recently bought them from Focus Attack, to replace the Gersung ones in my Crown 309mj.

Based on the review I saw on it, I expect it to be the closest thing to the Panasonic/Older Gersung A3s. At this point, I’m willing to try anything since I haven’t touched Tekken in months. I also have the medium grommet to test it out, too. What’s your thoughts about them and how do I go about replacing the fasteners with the ones from my Gersung switches? Thanks in advance.


I’m actually interested in this as well, but I also wonder if it would be better to just modify the fasteners with some needle-nose pliers.


Just slightly bend them. They should be sturdy enough.


Thanks Genki and Phantomnaut, I was thinking about the actuator since the fasteners were curved, so there’s no chance of them reverting back to what they were after bending them? I just don’t want that to happen during play, which was why I thought about switching the fasteners outright.


Recently I installed the Infiltration lever (SDL-301-DX-ST35) in my TE2+, and I’m enjoying it a lot. So much so that I’m having trouble adjusting to the Taeyoung Fanta in my Etokki Omni. I was wondering if there is a ‘Korean’ style collar gate stick that is similar to the Infiltration lever that will work with the Omni?


Omni is designed for levers with a proper Korean collar, but levers with a chopped or no collar technically fit without modification. The mounting points are all there. If you find you’re having issues with your dust washer getting caught, consider getting one of these.


I got my microswitches and it was a quick and easy bend just by pressing down with enough force. I don’t think they’ll be bending back at all and they feel great in my 309!


Or from Focus Attack since they can make them now



Sorry to say this, but either the “review” you read online is bullshit, or perhaps you simply misunderstood it, because the switch you want to replace does not have the rating you think it has.


*Semitsu LS32/40 Panasonic AM5 hinge levered microswitch ===> 120gf (1.18N in catalog)
New Seimitsu Ls32/40 Omron V hinge lever switch would normally be rated 125gf (1.23N) but has custom bent lever to reduce deadzone (angle which influences OF also, it could be closer to 120gf in the end) , to make up for the longer pretravel of omron V vs discontinued panasonic am5 (panasonic am5 has an actuation point located slightly higher )
*K-lever exclusive model (with the erroneous marking on it) so called “thai” Panasonic AM5 microswitch ===> 180gf (1.77N in catalog)
*Gersung hinge lever A2 is rated 120gf, but A3 (undisclosed OF in catalog) is in the 180+ to 200gf range.

This means pana switches from LS32/40 (120gf, exact same OF ratring as Gersung A2) are NOT the same rating as pana switches from K-levers , the latter are only found in 180gf rating (closer to A3).
Some webstores claimed in the past that the aforementioned panas had same rating, but it’s not true, you can hear/read other funny info which is not based on true specs found in tech sheets, so watch out.

As for bending hinge levers (they’re not “fasteners” at all, the only fasteners you’ll find in these type of snap switches are metal rivets, if present) it is not recommended, after all they’ve been bent to a specific angle to mimic partially the actuation specs (to make up for one specific distance difference) of the discontinued panasonic AM5.

It’s a question of personal preference and how much or less actuation “sensitivity” you need especially when hitting corners with your k-lever.

If you bend more or less successfully the omron custom switch’s hinge lever (for ls32/40) , you’ll just revert it to a basic V-152-1a5 (thus similar to V1526A5 seen in JLW with exact same OF, the “6” digit is just a custom option for connectors) and it will NOT be similar to the panasonic AM5 if that’s what you’re after, BUT it will be closer to a Gersung A2 (120gf) with slightly more actuation force (125gf) and of course higher quality overall (Omron has a reputation).

There is no Omron hinge lever V with exact same OF as Gersung hinge lever A3 (although all other actuation specs are virtually identical ), as the official catalog proposes only 250gf for Omron V hinge lever models if you want a step above the 125 gf ones. Remeber the Gersung A3 and Pansonic “thai” Am5 in K-levers are 50-70gf lower in OF than a 250gf switch


Thanks! I tried fitting it in Omni before I installed it in the TE2+. I didn’t have the proper screws to mount it correctly, but I think it shouldn’t be an issue once I have those.
I noticed that the plexiglass could restrict the Infiltration lever’s movement. I installed the stick on my HORI Rap Pro.N, and there the movement was restricted a lot from the plexiglass as the opening is a lot more narrow than that of the TE2+.
Because the ‘Japanese’ style plexi could restrict movement, I’ll try installing the Infiltration lever with the stock ‘Korean’ plexi first.


Have someone tried this one?