Korean arcade parts discussion


You posted months ago but I have the collared versions of both the Myeongshin Fanta and the Crown 309 (also a 303) and the 309 may even be better than the Fanta. It is a very good lever.


That’s good to know, after getting used to the lever more (even in 2d fighters) I’ve found it highly superior to my modded jlf, although I do like the jlf in some areas more such as having a tactile feel in games that require it


I’m kinda curious about the Infiltration Lever because it is a K-lever with an octogate so it’d help with that (I think they also sell octo-collars at the site that does the Golden Fanta kits but as I recall the shipping was kind of a hassle/pricey).


As I’ve been switching between the Taeyoung Fanta and 309MJ, the Crown fits me better for my playstyle. I really like it and the fact that the collar is flat too. It’s my favorite lever so far.


I haven’t tried the Japanese-mount version but I imagine it is similar.


I havent tried the 309Helpme but I believe the 309mj is 25a while the Helpme is 35a. I actually prefer the lighter tension as I dont play Tekken so return to center isn’t a big deal to me.


Is not a octogate, it’s a semi-square and actually is not a big deal cause you will never ride 100% of the gate doing circular motions due the too large throw vs a very fast engagement so large motions is totally unnecessary.

The interesting thing is that if you mount the actuator upside down you’ll have shorter throw, i don’t know the secret about this but it somehow prevents the shaft to go too far and the actuator don’t even reach the restrictor this way, unless you put a unusual effort.

I think there is no problem by using this way which i prefer, good stick.


it’s certainly not a “semisquare” , it’s a squircle. A semisquare is just a half square, and if you’re thinking of the equivalent area lune shaped quarter figure , that’s not it either, far from it.

Crown uses a truncated circle as lower “gate” or rather guide for most sticks (303,309 etc) , it’s “squarish” in shape of course and the truncatures are evident.
For the Infiltration stick, they proposed and unreleased rounded corner square (sanwa-seimitsu style) in proto stage and released commercially instead two gates a true circle one and a “circle square” one.
circle square doesn;t mean anything, it’s just a commercial name they took either via google translate or probably to have the clients grasp the idea instead of giving them the more obscure (and official) term : squircle.

In terms of playing and feel, the squircle will “lock in” the actuator better in corners than in cardinals, but at least it offer some form of locating for the cardinals, albeit when trying to remain/lock in one cardinal you will experience some lateral rocking since the curvature is much greater than the actuator diameter.
Imo, the crown infiltration “circlesquare” (squircle) version is not very good, they should have released instead a squircle shape with tighter curvatures, to get closer to an octogate feel, instead, the one released commercially feels too close to the circle shape they also offered, to the point where many found that it wasn’t worth buying the other gate.
Another goof was not releasing the rounded square gate (sanwa style), that one would have sold very well.
Btw, infiltration stick designer yoO designed a different “custom” actuator (as stated on his article on ruliweb) , which is sold if I remember correctly , on IST’s new site in the accessory section.


Does anyone here in the Korean parts thread have a 15.5 golden mod actuator that they would be willing to part with? I bought the green lever setup from wazwuz, but I found that using the actuator from my 307 (15.5) feels better.


my 303, I meant.


Where do you live ? PM me


Trying out some Panasonic switches in the Etokki Omni.


Funky colour! Let me know what you think.


So someone finally decided to test the spdt 120gf ABV “turquoise” switches I was talking about here (link for detailed info & catalog on this same thread) for those who are interested !
They’re supposed to replace the discontinued am5 but seem to suffer from depleted stocks as well with most suppliers online.
There are also much less options compared to the older am5, for example the abv can only be found in “side COM” .187 connectors or wire leads, whereas “bottom COM” option as seen with usual cherry, omron and panasonic switches seen in arcade joysticks is not mentioned in the catalog at all. For each type you only have…2 options for actuating forces! luckily for us joystick users it’s what some are looking for, but the stronger actuating models are not possible with hinge lever beyond 120gf.
I’m curious to know how you personally rate them in this modded stick of yours, compared to the gersung of equivalent OF and discontinued Panas.


@Hassun @Agieze

They’re not that good sadly, pretty much useless for arcade sticks. They have about 1.5mm of travel before the switch actuates. Making diagonal inputs next to impossible to pull off consistently. The metal hinge is also a lot thinner than other snap action switches making me doubt its reliability over the long term. They’re smooth though, which is nice but I can’t recommend them for arcade stick purposes.

I got the Panasonic switches from Mouser they have them rated at 2.9 N actuation force (about 295 grams). This has to be a mistake as they are a lot lighter to actuate. I personally like heavier switches and right now I have the Omron V-15G2-1C26-K installed and they are my favorites by far. They’re little heavier than the Gersung A2’s and a lot smoother and less raspy, if that makes any sense.


Thanks for the heads-up.


@SolidCake It has been noted before that Mouser, Farnell etc often if not always put the operating force of the basic pin plunger hinge-less model even if there is a hinge lever present.
In this case,checking the parts, Mouser are just dead wrong, the 295gf value does not even correspond to the pin plunger model, the strongest switches are pin plunger 200gf (1.96N) model and one special short lever +roller 220gf(2.16N).
the one you have is the strongest pin plunger (200gf)with a medium sized lever(reduces to 120gf like gersung “A2” ) . It’s exactly one of the two abv models I mentioned a year ago on this thread.( A word of caution: if you doubt the info for a switch model on Mouser and co, simply check with the pdf that is linked on the same page)

I understand your preferences, since the new turquoise panasonics reset at a much lower force (13gf) compared to gersung and older am5 panasonic equivalent models(20gf), it may not be enough unless you’re compensating with a very stiff grommet (55A hardness minimum imo) and or an adequately sized custom actuator.
BTW, what grommet have you in that fanta and what is the diameter of the ASI brass actuator you are using?
Concerning the quality, any panasonic (abv or am5) will outlive a gersung by far, especially these sealed switches, despite the thin section of the hinge lever (same type of lever seen on classic cherry switches with lateral pivot points),the key word is quality control standards.
As for your preferred choice, it is not an usual one: the omron model you favor has the highest operating force of all hinge lever models in the catalog (2.45N~ 250gram force ) .
If you remove the hinge lever, the switch becomes a simple pin plunger type…of 400gf .
I’m curious to know what grommet you are using in this config.


Just watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naYOYKS8wbE&feature=youtu.be

The throw comparison between delrin golden collar and stock fanta is ok since the same error in method is made during both measurements. Otoh, the error gives a wrong value for total throw.

Error? Wazwuz measures using a projection on the mounting plate (using a piece of masking tape). The part where the bat is tangent to the straight edge he’s sliding on the plate surface is supposedly projected on the tape, the problem is he’s marking not the tangent point along the thin ruler with which the bat is in contact at max throw… but a recessed part on the straight edge further away! The same is performed on both sides. It seems to add approx 5mm both left and right (simply a very rough estimation from the pictures, it’s difficult to see), so total throw range (or total span on one axis) considering a projection of the edge of the bat is not 70mm for Fanta as explained but certainly less, probably closer to 60mm (should be measured the right way to know for sure). He should have marked the edge of the straight edge’s ruler, not the metal block which is placed further back (creating a small recess) which adds distance from center when measuring. Look closely at the pencil tip and you’ll see he doesn’t mark the edge of the ruler but the edge of the metal block .

this being said, the custom collars look a hell of a lot better than the stock one.


I think the intention was only to show that the throw is the same, not that it’s 70mm. He only mentioned it was 70mm to indicate that it’s the same as the previous measurement.


Just a heads up for everyone on the forum. Going to be finally getting the YouTube channel launched, doing K Stick breakdowns, including each Levers properties and unique measurements. The aim
Is to expand the info available out there for the English speaking K Stick community, since we usually have to rely on our friends to translate for us / or bad web browser translations! So far I have only got a short coming soon video. But the first proper video will be up early next week.
If this Is something that interests you, please subscribe to the channel! JMFRTK YT Channel.