Korean arcade parts discussion


#4024

Episode 2 Finally up Here.
The Crown 309 Series. Tried to put as much info without getting too long. In the description you will find a glossary of all their terms.
Thanks for the help guys!


#4025

That was a very informative video, you answered questions that I spent quite a while looking for answers for before buying my 309k


#4026

On another note…
Been training really hard with my 309k and noticed my game increasing, however I still have a lot of trouble with down back movements on the left side.
My switches are Gersung AM5 so I imagine that they won’t be the problem. I have the stock actuator as well a medium grommet.
Is this just a practice thing that will slowly fade?
Thanks


#4027

Most likely a practice thing IMO.

Are you having trouble going directly from neutral to d/b, or just d/b in general? If you’re having trouble going from directly from neutral to d/b you may want to try using both your fingers and thumb to guide you in the direction. I had to train myself to do it this way after never being able to do it consistently with just my fingers. If you don’t need to go directly from neutral to d/b it would just be a matter of activating one switch and then gliding to the other for the d/b input.

Although likely a practice issue, it could also be attributed to the lever. I own a lot of Korean sticks and find there consistency to be very poor. For instance the grommets don’t always provide equal tension in each direction and in my experiences switch activation distance and resistance can very as well between switches of the same model. These slight variances can throw your inputs off. For me It’s been hard to find 4 switches that work well together, but I could just be picky. You may also find that you have a switch preference, personally I like older A2 switches which generally a lot of people don’t like based on what I’ve read.


#4028

Is there actually a difference between the crown 309 and 309mj in feel?
I’m curious since I saw in wazwuz’s golden collar video that his chopped collar doesn’t affect the throw at all but that’s for the myoungshin.


#4029

I gave the 309mj another go as I didn’t realize you can adjust the grommet/rubber tension…I thought it was just a spring.

Stock 309mj comes with a 25mm grommet. This was worse imo than the Myongshin I played on awhile back.
In terms of stiffness for me it went

  1. Stock Taeyoung
  2. Stock Myongshin
  3. Stock 309mj

In the past, I modified the Myongshin with a new grommet and the stock Tae young actuator…ended up feeling good but overall I still played better on gamepad. I managed to sell the taeyoung leverl to a guy who ended up really liking it, and ending selling the myongshin lever to another guy.

Then I went to a local and played on this guy’s 309mj with a 45 mm and really liked it.

I re-bought the 309-MJ and tried a 45mm grommet and it was too stiff, so I went down to the 35mm and this is the perfect feel and fit for me personally. I wish I knew this sooner…I had always heard ajd read Fanta was superior to crown but imo the grommet is the most important factor that makes the difference IMO for me personally.

Seeing as though the 309mj can be mounted to a Japanese style mount/plate, this is the best buy. Currently using it on my Razer Panthera, I’m probably gonna use the Sanwa JLF in a Hori Fighstick.


#4030

How far up the callor is the control panel suposed to come?


#4031

Hey ! im playing with a crown 309 mj, with a 35 tension grommet. my issue is that the forward swith, feel really loose then the other 3. is that normal or i have a broken switch ? thnxs !


#4032

One thing you can do is put the switch in another spot and see how it feels. Try making it the Down direction.


#4033

ok, thnxs, im gonna try it right now, but what’s gonna change if i do that ?


#4034

It’s just to see if it still feels really loose and while you’re changing the position of the switches you can take the time to inspect and mark the one you think has a problem as well.


#4035

i done thar, before i changed the directios, i marked the “bad” switch, i mounted it again, and now the one that feels loose its another switch
wtf is happening ??! hahaha


#4036

Yeah that’s the real reason why I asked you to do that. I’ve had that happen before as well. Felt like one direction was much easier to hit than others, then changed the switches around and thought it was another switch that felt loose.

In the end I think it was mostly in my head.


#4037

hahhahaha thnx !
so now the problem is solved, time to mount and play some good ass tekken


#4038

How bad is the ist mdf stick?


#4039

I recently started playing Tekken 7 and i really want to try out a korean stick.
Currently playing on a Hori Rap.N with sanwa JLF.

Im thinking of either buying a 309mj for the Rap.N or buying an etokki omni KE.

I’m OK with the price of the omni but am a bit worried about the size of it.
I play exclusively with the stick in my lap and I really like the form factor of my Rap.N.
I am worried that the smaller size of the omni wont be as comfortable. Both in terms of wrist support but also that it wont be as comfortable sitting in the lap due the decreased width.

I understand that this will be down to personal preference but if anyone has anything to share on this matter it would be greatly appreciated.


#4040

Buy the 309mj, buy a 35mm and a 45mm tensioner with it and experiment with it and put it on your HORI N RAP. It’s more cost effective than buying an Omni.

I was using the 309mj on my panthera but I bought a Hori RAP N from the trade outlet on SRK for $100 bucks…and I ended up putting my 309mj on it (with a 35 mm tensioner) because I like the base of the HORI RAP N and the spacing of the button placements over the Panthera which has the buttons closer to the stick.
I’ve always preferred the buttons to be further away from the stick.

I’ve also played on an Omni before with a few different levers and while they weren’t bad. I personally enjoy the base of the HORI RAP N more.

It is the best feel I’ve had for playing on stick for Tekken 7. Gonna save my panthera JLF for 2d games.
While I’m much better on Japanese stick than I was in the past, overall my 1p side is better on Korean stick than Japanese stick for Tekken 7.


#4041

Thanks! Main reason i’m looking at the omni is because a lot of people seems to say that the Taeyoung Fanta is vastly superior to the 309mj.


#4042

I received my Golden lever parts today, golden base and all. Wow, really impressed with the feel. I think that having the spring between the actuator and grommet bushing makes a huge difference in the feel. And it’s so nice to be able to throw it in a regular Japanese style case without modification. I’m impressed with the omron switches as well, they have a nice feel.

I had the original grommets from the initial dev tests here on SRK. At the time I thought they felt very consistent in tension, but were a little spongy feeling and didn’t return to neutral as well as some of my other grommets, but the addition of the spring seems to eliminate that feel for me altogether.

Currently i’m using the 15mm switch spacer, 15mm actuator, 7mm shaft and the light blue grommet from the initial run (I believe it’s 45 or 50 shore). I haven’t tried all the possibilities yet, but this setup already feels better than my other Korean levers, even better than my fujin which was my previous favorite.

Big props to Wazwuz for the effort put in to make this.


#4043

@jmanDMC on his dedicated thread sells the “Tekken” actuator for the 2018 revised version Infiltration lever (SDL301DX) .

The thing is his sources told him the new actuator for the new revised stick doesn’t work wonders on the 1st gen (longer shaft).
In reality we have :
*1st gen SDL301DX (long shaft) with stock (white delrin) machined actuator, the bottom diameter was too small and contact with the gate either didn’t happen or needed extra travel post contact with top collar, it is undisclosed if it is a production flaw or an initial design flaw, anyways it was unacceptable for those who wanted true “guiding” japanese style.
So Yo-O (main designer for Crown/Samducksa) posted on Ruliweb (late 2017) about an oversized version of said actuator called “tekken” actuator, also white at first, but commercialized shortly later (on istmall for example) under a black color to avoid confusion. See here http://bbs.ruliweb.com/game/82170/board/read/9434606

  • gamers apparently complained to YoO about the Infiltration lever being impossible to mount in certain console/domestic arcade sticks, plus a few other minor details, and so the 2018 “short version” SDL301DX with shorter lever body&shaft was born…but the 2018 actuator was released with a lower portion diameter that is still too small (behaves more or less like the 1st gen white part and is also white) , so Yo-O adapted also the 1st gen infiltration optional “Tekken” actuator and kept the color black to avoid confusion.

so we have
*2 “infiltration” stock actuators (both white, 1st gen long, 2gen short, both have small bottom diam, many feel it is abnormally thin)
*and 2 “Tekken” optional actuators (both black, 1st gen long, 2gen short, both have enlarged bottom diameter for proper contact with restrictor plate)
As can be seen here , the 4 actuators are displayed for visual comparison :
http://bbs.ruliweb.com/game/82821/board/read/9415869

Of course the short optional actuator for 2018 model is absolutely not adapted for the long version (and vice versa) due to the fact that whether the actuator is oversized or stock in terms of bottom diameter for one given gen, it has an overall length adapted to the particular shaft length is was designed for, but bear in mind there IS an optional oversized actuator (black) even for the 1st gen “long” SDL301DX.

( @polferni19 by mistake the reply seems adressed to you )