So good. Can use a high shore grommet and adjust the activation window window of the cardinal directions to ~0 and get godly execution.
Edit: BTW, did I say the golden base and actuator system is amazing, if so reiterating. So sexy and finely machined in comparison to the shotty molds of other k-levers.
For anyone interested in steps to replicate this mount, here is the method I used:
Various drill bits
Forstner, spade bit or hole saw
Almost any solid ~3/8" material will work, I used some hdpe (seaboard) ordered from amazon
12mm M4 screws
Matching nylon washers
Metal washers 6mm i believe
I have a switch plate from a myounshing air bag lever. I cut the dimensions of my 3/8" material to the same dimensions as the switch plate. I then used carpet tape to secure the switch plate to my material. This allowed me to use the switch plate as a guide to accurately drill holes for mounting it to various K-levers. You can use various bits to drill the center hole to allow room for the shaft/actuator to move freely, forstner, spade or hole saw for example. I don’t recall the size needed, maybe 25mm or 1".
Luckily the base of the Magenta is also the same size as the switch plate. So again, I carpet taped it too my material and used it as a guide to drill the pilot holes which are used to mount the magenta pcb. I ended up drilling the pilot holes out to 3.5mm and using a 4mm tap to thread them. It may be better to use a 2.5mm drill bit and a 3mm tap to allow some play room for centering the Magenta in case holes go off center at all.
You also have to drill out recess areas on your material to allow room for the screws and bolts used to secure the various pieces of the k-lever together to nest. Now you can screw the base material you created to most any K-lever using their standard screws. You can use nylon washers to properly space your magenta PCB, screwing it directly into your material.
Regarding the actuator, I ended up modifying a standard myoungshing actuator. I had to shorten it a bit, I don’t know the specific amount off hand. I drilled a 10mm recess in the bottom of the actuator for the brass piece of the magenta to nest, the bottom of this recess stops at the top of the magenta shaft. You can then use this as a guide to know where to cut down the actuator to. You can cut it to the top of the brass piece that way it sits flush. I used a vise and a coping saw to make the cut, but you could also mill it down with a sander or other various ways.
The magenta shaft is a bit shorter than a standard k-shaft. I used about 1/4" of metal washers to raise the bat top to the standard height. There wasn’t much thread left on the shaft, but enough to get a secure fit. I haven’t had any issues with it. I wish the shaft was a bit smaller in diameter, I believe it is 9mm, but that is just my preference.
If mounting to a Golden base the stock screws used with the top plate stick out to far at the bottom, so you will need to use the screws from a myoungshin lever or equivalent.
Initially I saw the potential in using the magenta, but noticed a decline in my execution. I went back to it a few times and found that having the directions activate closer to the center allowed for much better execution with a Korean style lever. This activation distance will vary depending on the tensioner used. I only play Tekken, so I can’t speak to execution in other games. This setup suited Tekken movement and Mishima play for me.
The best thing about it is being able to watch your input motions live while in practice mode and make conscious efforts to correct your bad inputs rather than blindly repeat motions in practice mode. This allows you to develop proper muscle memory much faster. Similar to practicing things slowly on an instrument and building up speed.
I wouldn’t say this is 100% better than switches; I can still execute well with switches, but it is very neat to mess around with and for now I’m going to stick with it.