Korean arcade parts discussion


Nice work on the the text colours. :V

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Just in case this hasnt been posted here, Maybe some people might be interested to see whats coming next from Crown: 309 - DX

At first they had it posted as an MJ, now it is showing an FJ, so not sure which option / or both we will be getting. I am going to get back into the habit of posting here more often, I miss this place, and it needs to get some more action. I dunno if its only me or what, but the updated look and new stuff they put in here, has really been the reason I dont come or post much, I miss the old format so much!!!

I’m starting work on the Youtube Channel to get some other Non Lever videos up, like a Microswitch guide that the best dude we have here @agieze is helping me out with, as well as some actual Case videos, like the Etokki Omni, Panzer, Makestick ETC. I will also be showcasing @wazwuz newest stuff once it gets released. He is hard at work manufacturing and designing the updated Golden parts. I cant wait to showcase it all, since I don’t even know anything about it, I will showcase it live as I get to see for the first time. Very excited to see what happens there.

I hope everyone here is having a great holiday if you have one today (Canada Thanksgiving / USA Columbus Day/ ETC)! I am really thankful that we do have this community and without this place I wouldnt even know the joy of Korean levers. so Thank you to guys like @agieze @wazwuz @zero_requiem @blankaex @The_Phantomnaut @butteroj @hibachifinal @kodee_vu ETC. I apologize if I forgot anyone, Everyone here, THANK YOU!




I thought this would be relevant to y’all.



That’s very sad to hear.



Hey ykd, any idea when those 309-DX’s will come out?



Finally got the tech sheet for DECO / VICSTAR “normal” levered micro switches ( “hinge lever” model as per other brands) ,
deco.co.kr does not have it online btw and only gives us current rating and operating force (see last post on this thread on DECO switches, use search engine)

(Almost) full spec list for levered switches by DECO :

  • V series
  • thermosetting (S) or thermoplastic casing § both can be used for joystick use.
  • levered switch ( “2” digit ) at 180gf Operation Force “H” digit (non levered is 300gf) , 120gf with “F” digit (non levered is 200gf)
    *with specs above switches are available in 5,15/16 and 21A current ratings.

*minimum Release Force 20g for 120gf OF model, 30g for 180gf OFmodel.
*maximum Pretravel distance is 4mm
*maximum Overtravel 1.3 mm
*Operating position is 15.4 ± 1.4mm
*maximum Movement Differential is 1.2mm

comparing with Panasonic AM5 180gf Operation force, levered (classic in K levers) :

  • max release force 29.6 gram force
    *max Pretravel 3.2mm
    *max Overtravel 1.4mm
    *Operating Position 15.3±1mm
    *max movement differential 1mm

So we see the DECO 180gf OF model has (edit) same release force than Panasonic model …but otherwise is less precise in actuation specs since operating position is less precise (just look at operating position numbers) and DECO can reach 0.8mm deeper in maximum pretravel before reaching said point. Movement differential slightly bigger for DECO (0.2mm more means the mechanism will reset to operating state a bit later compared to panasonic am5, add to that the imprecision of operating point) .
Specs are not everything, say some specs are perfectly OK -on paper- with your needs, but the mechanism is noisy (chinese clone switches, hard type), or it seems unreliable, or the parts wiggle a lot due to small pin plunger and wide aperture in case(zippy for example)

As for STARION switches, they are 1-1 clones of Omron V (classic Omron in japanese levers) concerning the specs that interest us (numbers are strictly the same on paper) , apart from quality and real life tolerances, so if you want the specs for Starion just look them up on official Starion website or just look up the Omron V series pdf tech sheet . being the same on paper doesn’t mean they’ll feel exactly the same though for many reasons.

I could compare the DECO 180gf with Omron, the problem is there is no 180gf force omron v (sweet spot operating force for K lever switches) , OF jumps from 120gf directly to 250gf in the chart, this being said the 125gf and 250gf Omron V have 4mm pretravel just like the Starion clone and the DECO.
Operating Position for levered omrons in 125gf and 250gf (height above horizontal line passing by bottom mounting hole until contact is made, measured from a point on a specific actuation zone on lever blade) is 15.2 ±1.2mm so it’s a bit more precise on paper than DECO also (15.3±1.4mm). Movement differential for Omron V in 125 and 250gf OF models is 1.5mm and that is 0.3mm more than for DECO which means the latter is supposed to reset over a smaller distance, at least on paper, which places the DECO more or less in between an omron V and a panasonic am5. The rest is technical and should be left to be appreciated in real life, data on paper (and commercial claims) is one thing, what suits you is another especially when dealing with custom actuators of various diameters, but it’s still cool to have the info in case you absolutely want a switch that actuates early (say panasonic am5 or cherry/zf ) or one that actuates late (zippy VM low force, all omron d2rv) , also the combined specs of actuator diam and switch pretravel/operating position modifies the max angle aperture to hit a diagonal, a deep actuating switch combines well with an extremely oversized actuator, the problem is that you’ll be a hair from riding the k-lever collar at every input, also due to tolerances it is possible some switches will not actuate at all if the “engage” is too close to max throw (despite not having traditional japanese restrictor gate).
Actuators with no slanted/tapered profile, zero deadzone (just the right oversize) and switches with smallest pretravel (highest actuating point) may seem the best but it may also be overly sensitive for people used to classic settings seen decades ago with a fair amount of wiggle, deadzone and medium to low quality switches some of which actuated relatively deep, not to mention off-center grommets etc.



Nice write-up!
I have to admit I do like a bit of deadzone on my K-levers, even if it’s not the most efficient setup.



Is Golden Shaft the only way to increase throw on a Myoungshin? I’d get one but the shipping from arcade indonesia is too expensive



I’m just curious, been using the 309 help me for 6 months now and and wondering what mods I can do to a stock one outside of the “golden mods” tekken I seem to miss down left a bit, however other games this doesnt seem to be a problem.



Does This stick fits in Qanba Q1?




Does anybody know or tested this:

I didn’t know there was a v3 for the fujin lever. I heard about v2 but not v3



Oh crap, that’s already sold out.

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But this Joystick fit in my Qanba Q1?



So AI introduced Golden lever. In early 2019. Any specs, prices?



Speaking of Gold:



I’m back big kids! I’ve got over a year of his forum to read😂I’ll probably get it done in the next few days, Christmas can wait😂

I’m gonna ask a pretty stupid question before I do though, what are the current Korean stocks out?

I’ve checked the forums various times over the months and there’s so many at the moment, Korean stocks have really taken off. But could someone give a brief explanation of the current sticks out? What microseitches, how the stick feels? Everything. I feel like I’m new to all this again.



Looking good!

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Please, which CWL series will fit in a Madcatz case? I’m thinking of 309MJ and the best choice for my location is the IST Mall but i don’t know what is the “kaze version” which seems to be the right choice as it has no collar (i don’t know if there is other differences).
(I have the Infiltration lever but the shaft is too tall and i want to give something else a try).

Despite what i said about thinking of 309MJ as my best choice I’ll listen to any recommendation.
PS: i prefer soft feel and effortless diagonals




Any that support Japanese style mountings.