Light-up on activation button mod tutorial


#1

**Added new pictures from speedsterharry, including one that explains how to install a switchless version of the mod

First of all, big thanks to Toodles. He helped explain everything to me. I just fabricated it. You’re my hero Toodles :tup:

This tutorial explains how to make your (hopefully) translucent buttons light up when activated.

You will need…

  1. Soldering iron
  2. 6 LEDs (I used white LEDs that were rated at 3.3v)
  3. 6 resistors (1/8 watt, 220 - 2.5k Ohms. Depends on how bright you want the LEDs to be)
  4. A hex inverter (Toodles recommended the 74HCT04, but also said that any of the 7404 family will work like the 74LS04 or 74HC04)
  5. A battery holder (3-4 AA/C/D batteries. Your choice)
  6. A SPST switch (Toggle/pushbutton/rocker. Again, your choice)
  7. An extra, unused ground coming from your PCB
  8. (optional) A barrier strip to help with the ground wiring (You’ll be soldering 8 wires to 1 tiny pin. Think about it :smile:)

YOUR PCB MUST BE COMMON GROUND FOR THIS MOD TO WORK

The hex inverter will be the center of the mod. There are 14 pins on the hex inverter.

  1. Input 1
  2. Output 1
  3. Input 2
  4. Output 2
  5. Input 3
  6. Output 3
  7. Ground
  8. Output 4
  9. Input 4
  10. Output 5
  11. Input 5
  12. Output 6
  13. Input 6
  14. Vcc (Power)

Basically, the positive end of the power source is wired to the switch, then to Pin 1 (Vcc) of the hex inverter. The negative end of the power source is wired to Pin 14 (ground). Now attach 1 resistor to the positive end of all of your LEDs (the longer leg), then place the LEDs in your buttons (under or taped to the sides of the button works fine as well). I used Seimitsu PS-14-K buttons, so I popped off the plungers of the buttons and bent the LEDs so the legs would stick out of the small, narrow hole where the buttons snap into metal panels. Now with the LEDs prepped, wire the other end of the resistors to the outputs of the hex inverter (Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12) and the negative ends of the LEDs to Pin 14 (ground). Also, take the extra ground from your PCB and wire it to Pin 14 (ground) as well.

You’ll now need to hook-up the signal wire of your buttons to the inputs of the hex inverter (Pins 1, 3, 5, 9, 11, 13). I did this by soldering to the back of my quick disconnects… Make sure you hook-up the signal wires of the buttons to the corresponding LED output, or you’ll end up pressing LP and having HK light up.

If all of the above is too confusing or you’re just too lazy to read, here’s a diagram I made when I was doing this mod to my HRAP2.

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/28489/2901223980084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

The green wire is the non-ground wire for the button

If the previous picture is too hard to understand, here’s a clearer one made by speedsterharry.

This only shows the wiring for 1 button, so just rinse and repeat for the rest.

When you’re done, it should work like [media=youtube]KgF1KIIpjDU"[/media].
I hope this tutorial helped! I’ll add some pictures of the guts of my stick when I decide to open up my HRAP2 again.


After hearing about Toodles’ idea for a switchless version of the mod, I decided to try it out. I was going to make another picture/schematic, but speedsterharry beat me to it, so here you guys go.

The mod is relatively the same. Just compare the schematics and you’ll find the differences. Here’s Toodles’ post on this

If you want to light up the joystick, you’ll need a drilled shaft, a 4 input NAND logic chip (74HCT20), and some neat wiring =)
Refer to Kaytrim’s post

Feel free to ask questions/criticize/comment :smile:


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#2

you are my god ting, ty


Official USFIV/GGXrd/P4U TE2 Thread
#3

Good shit. You may want to change your pin numbers you listed; they don’t match the pin numbers of the IC. IC pins are counted just like in your picture.

I have ideas/suggestions for how to overcome two possible problems:

  1. If the PCB doesn’t work when the switch is off or the batteries are dead or removed.
  2. Auto switch off when not plugged in
    But I dont have any way of testing them. If anyone is willing to be a guinea pig for either of these, say so and I’ll post up my thoughts on what could/should be done. #1 would require a diode and running a wire from the +v line from the PSX cable. #2 would require a transister capable of supporting 200mA or so of current and two resistors (one is possible, two is better).

Now, who’s gonna be the first to do this mod with color changing RGB LED’s? :nunchuck:


#4

Ooops, my bad. Wasn’t looking at it right -_-;. That’s what I get for doing this in the morning.

And, I don’t mind being the guinea pig, just as long as the parts don’t cost me too much money =P.


#5

tingboy: that’s some seriously cool shit

i might even try it

could i get all those parts at radioshack? (minus the stuff from say, lizardlick of course)


#6

Not the Hex inverter. You’ll need to check out Fry’s or your local electronics store. My local store didn’t have it, so I went to Fry’s (2 of them actually, the one closer to my house was out of stock).

Also, you might want to get the resistors and LEDs elsewhere since I hear that Radioshack likes to sell assorted bags. Never enough of 1 type in 1 bag, so you’ll waste your money on another bag. Again, Fry’s is awesome for this.

As for the LEDs, I got a 25 pack of white LEDs from Dealextreme.com for $3.05 with free shipping
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1106

They also have UV, blue, red, green, yellow, and IR LEDs


#7

So systems don’t have enough power to power both the leds and the stick?


#8

I don’t believe so. I don’t have the proper tools to test that out. I’ll try hooking up more LEDs to one of my PSX pads and see what happens the next time I get the chance to.


#9

I don’t want pennies for battery life on play joystick. that’s waste! :looney:

I had a heard aid need battery. :sad:


#10

I see if you’re using ultra-bright 5mm led’s, but i’m just wondering if a PS1/360 pcb will be able to use small standard 2mm led’s for all buttons? Nothing fancy just as long as they light up and don’t affect performance? any thoughts.


#11

Yea Toodles, our resident electronics expert.:lovin:

I’d be willing to work on an RGB LED stick. :wgrin: Need to build one for myself sometime. Though just Red and Green would suffice, switch colors back and forth when pressed. I’d also volentier for guinea pig duty if I had the time and parts.

TTFN
Kaytrim


#12

tingboy=god’s gift to stick newbz

ty so much


#13

noob question, hex inverter in the pic, the positive from the pcb is changed to a negative which goes to the resistor then led? doesn’t the led need a positive and a negative to light up? I see a negative going into the resistor then led and one coming out.


#14

You have everything right except the states of the buttons. The button lines from the original PCB are held high (positive as you put it), and when the button is pressed, the button line gets connected directly to ground, making the voltage on the line low (negative as you put it, but its actually 0 volts). Since all of the buttons have a common line of ground, its a ‘common ground’ setup, so all common ground pads should work this way.

So, when the button is pressed (negative), the inverter puts out positive voltage, going through the LED lighting it up. When at rest, the button line is high, so the inverter puts out 0v, so the LED doesn’t light up.


#15

You’re complaining? When you have buttons that light up when you press them? Get real, that’s worth batteries any day…


#16

ah thx toodles.


#17

W O W


#18

Sweet mod. I must try this…


#19

In case you missed it in the custom stick thread…

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=4782398&postcount=3293

One more thing to add, when the batteries are dead/switch is off, the PCB will only think that all buttons are being pressed if that 1 PCB ground isn’t connected to the ground of the inverter.


#20

Damn me for being a mental midget…I think this mod is going to be alittle bit harder then I thought.