Looking at getting my first stick


#1

Hello everyone. I’m new here obviously and am very interested in getting my first stick. Right now I’m looking at a madcatz SE and have read its a good beginner stick. Most people do recommend swapping out for sanwa parts, which is why I’m posting. Which parts need to be swapped? and I’m actually looking for someone to do it for me (TX). I went to the “Need a modder” thread but need a post count greater than 2 to send a PM. Or would it just be easier to get a TE? I’m looking for crazy mods, just yet, but i can forsee an art-swap in the near future. Thank you for your time.

Edit: Any additional insight will be GREATLY appreciated, thanks again.


#2

Please don’t buy the SE. It’s high likely trash. Unfortunately I can’t recommend a lower end one because the prices have risen to a point on Amazon.com that it’d probably be wiser to go for the high end ones. Shit case and point. The SE is running for $70, for it to be modded would cost you another $40+. That puts you at $110 easy. Go for the Hori Real Arcade Pro V3 SA. It’s $130 on amazon and it needs no modding. Make sure you click the price listed for Amazon. It’s approved for free super saver shipping. Even though you’re a beginner at least you will not need anything else with such a high end stick.


#3

Where does an SE go for $70, anywhere?

Depending on how cheap you can get one, the SE + swapping out the buttons is arguably easily the best value for a good quality stick. Originally when it WAS $70, it was a poor value, but that isn’t the case anymore. I would say it’s not worth it unless you can find it for under $40.

Aside from it being rather small (which isn’t exactly a negative, it can be seen as a positive as well), it is a good case. Has a universal mounting bracket (not found some sticks that are even more expensive than it), room for internal modding, and a good button layout. It shares the same PCB with the more expensive TE, so that isn’t much of a problem either (although the reliability of madcatz PCBs in general can be called into question).

The only real issue with it as a case is the stupid bend it has, it makes it harder to apply any real visual mods, you are limited to just lamilabel. But as a functional stick, especially when modded, it is more than adequate.

This line of thinking is what makes the EXCELLENT TvC stick get overlooked. The parts in there are just as high quality as sanwa, but not exactly the same. But “it’s just a cheap SE don’t get it” mentality rules all. At least for people who know better, they can get cheap quality sticks when stores try to clear out stock of it due to lack of interest.


#4

@threi

When you say “when modded” to which mods to are referring to?

What would be the advantages/disadvantages of getting a Hori Real Arcade Pro V3 SA?

Any comments on a Round 2 TE?

Which would be easier to mod between the two?


#5

By modding i mean replacing the buttons and stick with Sanwas/Seimitus (the kind found in more expensive arcade sticks). It will run you about $40/$50 extra. The mod itself is easy, they are drop in replacements (which is something the SE has over other budget arcade sticks)

HRAP V3 SA and TEs don’t need to be modded, and they are more expensive obviously. They also have larger, heavier cases with have additional stability.

Now whether it’s worth it to buy an SE and mod it or just buy a more expensive stick is up to the user and what prices they can get it at, but to claim that the SE isn’t worth it at all isn’t exactly true. If you can get it for cheap, it is definitely a great value for a stick. If not, then just get a TE or HRAP.


#6

is a round 2 TE for 137 shipped a good enough deal to overlook an SE?

does the gate need to be swapped for a TE? or does it already have an 8-gate?


#7

there are gamestops around here w/ SEs for $50. + about $50 for Sanwa buttons and stick (same as TE)… that’s $100. So, the question is, is it worth the $37 difference? If you can ‘easily’ afford it, go for it. My first was a TE and i am still happy i got it.

However, if you can find the SE, swapping parts is EASY as pie. And it’s a bit more fun to show off.

Also: TEs come stock with a quad-gate. You need to buy/install the octo. Easy-peasy pumpkin peasy. Easier than swapping artwork. (for that matter, swapping out sticks & buttons is easier than artwork swap too.)


#8

ok so I’ve been shopping around the internet and I can get a SF4 Round 2 TE and a SSF4 TE for about the same price. What’s the difference between the two? I mean parts-wise. Will one be easier to mod than another? I would like to swap out art right away and put an 8-gate. What 8-gate am I looking for? Also I would like clear buttons and a clear ball top? what part numbers should I be looking for?


#9

nothing different about the 2, same parts just different art. The TE comes with an 8 way gate. I’m guessing you mean an Octagonal Gate? :slight_smile:
Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate

Oh and for the Clear buttons use these
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-PS-14-KN-30mm-Pushbutton-White_p_507.html

Balltops
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-35mm-Bubble-Tops_c_219.html


#10

dude you are beast! thanks!


#11

It may be worth it to learn on the square gate, you’ll develop better habits and have less reason/excuse to ride the gate.

I got the TE as my first stick and learned the square gate decently enough to do well in a couple weeks, and it was only about a month or two before I stopped riding the gate all the time.


#12

I am looking to pick up my first stick as well…I will be searching the webs and local stores to find a good deal on a high quality stick.


#13

Goddammit, stop mixing up the shape of the gate with how many directions it can go!

Square gate goes in all 8 directions and you should get used to it. It’s the standard in arcade cabinets for a reason. However, if you must get an octagonal gate to get better rolls on your circular movements, get the GT-Y gate. There is also the Toodles GT-C custom circular gate.