Hey all, about 6 months ago I bought a Hori RAP4 Pro Kai with the plan to use that as my permanent PS4 stick. However, about a month ago I noticed that the spring seemed to be losing a lot of tension. It has become a lot harder to dash and to perform certain special movements (such as 2 2 movement). I have owned a few sticks in my lifetime and I have never noticed one deteriorate so quickly. I emailed Hori asking them if it was still under warranty and if not would it be possible for them to repair it for a fee. That was about a week and a half ago and I’ve received no response (so fuck Hori). I’ve since pre-ordered a TE2 because in my experience the Mad Catz sticks are pretty durable. However, I have two questions: is it typical for a company such as Hori to just flat out ignore their customer service inquiries? Also, how hard would it be to replace the joystick? I have never gone “under the hood” of a stick before so I have no clue what I am doing. I’m not terribly worried about it since I have the TE2 on the way, but I would like to possibly repair the Hori as a backup because, aside from the joystick, it is in good condition. Any help is appreciated.
Yoy don’t have to replace the entire stick. You can just get a spring with higher tension. The Hayabusa (the lever used in most Hori sticks these days) feels loose because of reduced friction on the pivot. The rationale behind this design choice was that if there’s less tension, commands are quicker to execute since not as much force is required to move the lever. If you’re having trouble doing 22 or 66 motions, make sure you let the stick return to 5 first. You may not be letting the actuator move far away enough from the switch that it gets released, so while you think you’re doing 22, the game reads it as you holding 2.
Thanks for the reply. The strange thing is, occasionally I will get on my 360 to play +R (using a different Hori RAP4, the one for Xbox) and I have no problems with my Zato inputs (66, 22, etc) and the stick just feels like it has much more tension. So perhaps I just got a dud? Anyway, how hard would it be for a complete noob to go in and replace the spring? Also, could you possibly recommend a good site, because I checked Hori and they do not sell spare parts?
Did you mod/Dual Mod your Hrap 4 for use with the Xbox Hori RAP 4?
As they don’t actually make the Hrap 4 for the Xbox 360. If anything I take a guess and say it’s the Hrap VX or some variation of it.
Whats the difference you would ask?
The Older PS3 and Xbox 360 sticks used the Sanwa JLF while the Newer PS4 compatible sticks use the Hori made Hayabusa joystick.
As for spare parts, for the Spring? The Hayabusa is very much Hori’s clone of the JLF in many respects, you can use a JLF spring in the Hayabusa Joystick.
JLF parts that fit on the Hayabusa without any alterations
Ball Top (Seimitsu ball tops will work as well)
Bat Top Adapter
Individual micro-switches (need soldering)
What does not work
JLF gates have to be modified to be installed
The Pivots are not cross compatible at all.
Sanwa TP-MA PCB Assembly will not fit at all. (if you de-solder the switches, the individual switches can be installed)
The Hayabusa PCB can’t install on the JLF.
A sanwa JLF replacement spring will work.
Standard tension: http://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-replacement-spring/
Paradise Arcade Shop has other spring tension offerings also.
While you’re ordering parts, I suggest trying a larger actuator as well, it will reduce the distance you need to move the lever to get an input- sounds like something you would be interested in. This one also reduces throw distance, which is really long on the stock Hayabusa: http://www.focusattack.com/kowal-1mm-oversize-actuator-for-sanwa-jlf-series-joystick/ (note that you will need to round the edges of the larger cylinder if you use it in the Hayabusa with its stock gate)
As for the process of replacing the spring, you need to carefully remove the E-clip while keeping the actuator and spring from launching (the spring is compressed when the joystick is fully assembled), remove the actuator, remove and replace the spring, reinstall the actuator, then reinstall the e-clip.
No I did not mod anything, I’m not really versed in the art/science of fightstick modification. Also you are correct, my 360/One fightstick is the Rap 5. So if I understand you correctly you’re saying it is likely that my PS4 stick is just loose by design? That sucks but I appreciate the list of parts and I’ll have to look into how to actually install them.
Thank you very much, I will definitely look into the larger actuator as that sounds like something that would really help me out. I wasn’t aware that these sort of modifications even existed, I feel like I have been living under a rock for the last few years
@Darksakul, drunkards_walk’s stick is most likely either of these two:
HRAP.V Hayabusa (Xbox One/360)
HRAP.V Kai (Xbox One/360)
@drunkards_walk, the “V” in the stick’s name isn’t the Roman nuneral for “five.” It stands for “Vewlix,” the layout of the buttons and stick. It’s a common listing mistake on many sites that sell these sticks.
Wow I never would have guessed that. The second one you listed is the one that I own.
Oh Wait? I forgot there is a Xbox One/Xbox 360 version.
Hori is becoming very confusing lately with their naming schemes.
Yes the Hori Real Arcade Pro Kai for Xbox One and Xbox 360 does have Hayabusa joystick and Kuro buttons (and not sanwa parts LOL) Their sticks prior to 8th generation consoles didn’t really have The Hori made Hayabusa (with the exception of the Fighting Edge).
Are the sanwa parts superior to the Hayabusa/Kuro stuff?
Depends on who you ask. Ask a 100 people here on SRK and you get 112 answers.
Personally I don’t care that much for Hori’s offerings. I can’t stand the Kuro buttons.
But I feel the Hayabusa is superior to the Sanwa JLF.
Interesting, I’ve only ever played with what came standard on my sticks, I wasn’t really aware that there is sort of custom modification subculture that existed. I dig it.
Welcome to SRK tech talk!
Hardest part of modding an arcade stick is finding where the circlip went after it sprang off at a million miles an hour across the carpet while you were removing it…
That’s why i always have some spare replacement ones
I have yet to find a way to remove these clips safely. That’s sad ;(
- Take a flatheard
- Wedge it between the shaft and the clip
- Gently pry the clip off, keeping your free hand over it to stop it from flying away
Interestingly enough, Hori finally emailed me back and they seem at least remotely helpful. Their first suggestion was to clean everything with isopropyl alcohol (which seemed like a catch-all response). Anyway, I think I will do that just for the hell of it.