LS-40 vs LS-32 and other random stick stuff

Doesn’t matter. Look at how deep the switches are mounted on the ls-40.

There could be more to it though, like the actuator hitting in a different place. Honestly I didn’t spend a lot of time checking, once it was clear that a ls-40 wasn’t going to turn in to a ls-32 without some heavy brutality I gave up.

and idk if you’re tried a battop, but differences in leverage and weight can really change how things feel. Same spring, same switches, doesn’t matter.

Anyways you should stop taking it apart and actually play on the ls-32 for five minutes, you’ll see what everyone’s talking about.

It’s a tricky japanese design thing maybe…but it does feel different indeed.

Just for kicks…
A picture of the substrates of the Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu LS-40-01. The JLF is on the left side of the pic below…
http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/GeorgeC1970/IMG_0157_zps47192bfa.jpg

Below is the LS-32-01 substrate complete with the same microswitches as the LS-40-01. The substrate assembly looks a lot flimsier than what you see on the other two joysticks!
http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae47/GeorgeC1970/IMG_0269_zps382e210b.jpg

that’s because LS-32 was not designed to have a pcb assembly in the first place. remember its a very old joystick, they used loose micros back then, they “HAD” to make a make-shift assy because of the growing popularity of 5-pin connectors in cabs. So we got this flimsy “oh lets just put around it, w/e works” #THANKSSANWA

I’m amazed that with all the LS-32 installations and removals that I’ve done across multiple joysticks that I’ve never damaged the substrate or 5-pin adapter of any of those joysticks!
It really is very flimsy-looking in real-life.
Some joystick harnesses have tabs that clip on top of the 5-prong adapter on the Seimitsu LS-joysticks. I don’t take my chances with the hardware if I ever have to take off those harnesses; I use a small screwdriver to lift up the tabs a bit to make slipping off those prongs easier.
I still like the performance of the LS-32 but it could have been engineered better in some ways.

It feels flimsy, too. Thankfully there isn’t a lot of tension when removing it and if you pull the micros loose first you should never have to worry about breaking it.

Anyway, I’m playing around with it more and I’m 99% sure the difference in “feel” is all in the pivot. I’ll post more about it when I get a chance.

I think as long the PCB assembly is installed int he LS-32 you are fine, as the main body is holding the switches in place and not the PCB.

LS-40 and LS-32 are not the same, LS-40 is a lot less forgiving to wrong inputs, countless times I have found myself dropping V-ISM combos on Street Fighter Zero 3 because of undesired jumps.

And I agree with Moonchilde about the JLW, if just Sanwa had installed the same lighter spring and Omron switches found on the Super Nintendo Capcom Power Stick Fighter, that’s the perfect stick/JLW IMO, best stick for shoot’em ups too…according to Kowal.

Funny how everyone has different preferences. I actually think the stock spring is fine if not maybe a little tighter tension. I did swap in some Omron switches instead of the Sanwa re-branded Zippy switches that came with it.

I don’t really notice much of a difference between the LS-40 and LS-32. I will spend more time on them.

Edit: I should clarify. I’ve spent so much time on a 40 that from an engage/throw point of view, the sticks don’t feel different at all. However, that 32 pivot is a different beast and changes how it feels a lot. I feel that in general the 40 is more accurate and smooth operating. I do not have execution problems on it.

Where did you get levered Omrons for the JLW? are those the same switches that came installed on the SNES CPSF?

I bought them from mouser.com. The exact model # is V-16G-1C25, same as what goes into the JLF. They’re a bit higher tension which is what I like compared to the Zippy micros. Oh, they didn’t come with the levers though, I took the levers from the Zippy switches and put them in the Omron switches. The levers are compatible across Gersung, Zippy, and Omron. Matsushita levers are not compatible with anything but Matsushita FYI.

Edit: After spending enough time on a 32 and switching back to the 40, I can confirm it’s all in the pivot. I don’t know how anyone can stand playing on that thing, that pivot completely ruins the feel of the stick. My execution was fine on the stick, it just didn’t feel comfortable to play on compared to the 40, JLF, JLW, Hayabusa, and even the 56. Well, maybe not the 56. I’ll probably take some flak for posting that, but that’s my observations. With my long time experience on the 40, and going to the 32, everything normal with the exception of how the stick actually moved around. Throw, engage, all that felt fine and natural to me.

This thread needs more Suzo.

Send one my way I’ll be happy to post all about it :slight_smile:

If you’re a fan of the LS-32 and the JLW, take the Seimitsu spring and put it on the JLW. It’s one of my favourite mods. Great for shmups.

JLF’s Omrons are not the same ones that came stock on the old JLW’s which were secured with rivets so if you want to install/remove its levers you can’t open them without destroying the entire microswitch case, these switches also had a “drier” clicky sound than any other microswitch I have ever seen till now, best microswithes ever IMO.

Oh I know which models you are talking of. I have some 100 gf of the same, with 4 having their rivets drilled out. It doesn’t destroy the case it only makes it inconvenient to mount on anything other than a flat surface.

Can you tell me what size of wick did you use to drill the rivets? I need to clean my Seimitsu Ls-30 Omrons which are also riveted.

You can crush and push the rivets with a small screwdriver.

You should measure the differences between the LS-32 and LS-40 again.

They use the same spring and almost the same switches and same exterior measurement actuator but that is where the similarities end.

The different pivots give a different feel but the biggest difference is that because the switch assembly sits lower it causes the the LS-40 to hit the switches and gate earlier (shorter throw). The lower you position the switches the sooner they engage. And if you measure both PCBs the switches are closer together on the LS-40 adding on the short throw.

The LS-40 has a taller shaft that gives the illusion that they have similar throw distances because a taller shaft travels a longer distance than a shorter shaft. Those who bought the LS-32 40th anniversary stick can install the +4mm taller than stock shaft to match the LS-40 shaft height from the pivot and it’s really easy to see the LS-40 stops much sooner.

The bottom part of the LS-40 shaft is also longer because the switches sit lower on the body.
If you have an original model LS-32 you will also notice that the switches are closer together on the LS-40 because the deadzone is much smaller on the LS-40. (The deadzone is small on the new 2017 LS-32 because of the bent switch metal tabs).

And the spring feels a tiny bit lighter on the LS-40 because the bottom part of the shaft is longer so the spring is less compressed and the shaft is taller giving it more leverage.

The LS-40 also eliminates the pivot from rising when pushed against the gate because the angle is smaller and the pivot is different.

The construction on the LS-32 is “higher quality” because the bottom part is metal and the shaft is heavier. If you install them on a super solid metal panel you will notice that the LS-32 feels more solid because you can feel very small but noticeable differences between the shaft hitting the all plastic body vs the part metal body of the LS-32.

They are very different sticks after you use both for some time. Both are absolutely awesome.

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