I’m not sure if this has been asked before, but I’m just gonna ask it anyway. I’ve recently decided to switch from pad to stick, so about a week ago I ordered the TE2+ from Amazon based on its easy access for both functional and cosmetic modding, its durable chassis, potential for storing extra parts and small items, and extremely low input lag, totaling to $250 including shipping. I briefly skimmed some reviews on the HRAP4K and felt a little uneasy that it was more difficult to mod than the TE2+, especially with the joystick. But little did I know… it’s actually $100 cheaper than the TE2+. Would it be worth returning my TE2+ for an HRAP4K?
Both sticks are functionally the same, neither aren’t impossible to mod, but the TE2+ is easier to mod. I dunno, up to you if you want to save some cash. The parts inside the HRAP4K and TE2+ are on similar levels of quality, both are easily moddable too.
Yea but in order to mod Kai 4 you have to remove the warranty sticker ehhh …
Well, this is Tech Talk, the moment the stick gets out of the box, we usually void that warranty. :3
Okay maybe only after we find out everything works for sure.
I’ve played with the Kai for a short period and have a TE2+
IMO, the Hori seems light on the weight side of things. As mentioned before, functionally they are the same, all have the touchpad and the razzle dazzle. The MCZ comes at a heavy premium that I personally don’t feel warranted, I think it’d be better priced at 180 instead of 230.
I also personally like Sanwa over the Hori parts, so the cost of the Kai + Sanwa parts takes you a little closer to the TE2+ price.
If you do keep the TE2+, put some sticky tape on the latch that closes the top panel, close it and then take off the sticky tape. I don’t know why, but it magically gets rid of the creaking/flexing noise
Edit: I also think you’re better off getting the HRAP V Hayabusa instead of the HRAP 4 Kai
Y’know, someone was asking me the exact same thing on twitter… Weird…
Anyway, the HRAP line isn’t much of a big step in difficulty. Just unscrew some screws and you have access to the internals. I’ve never seen the inside of a HRAP 4 Kai but I’m assuming the mounting hardware for the joystick is identical to most other sticks as it’s pretty much always been that way, so I’m not sure what you mean by the joystick being harder to modify.
They’re essentially the same, just different artwork. Both come with Hayabusa buttons and joystick, at least the newer revisions do.
The reviews on the HRAP said the same thing about the weight, which kinda turned me off because I’m not always gentle when it comes to traveling around. But yeah… $180 would have been a great price for the TE2+. :sad:
I heard from someone that the joystick is difficult to mod because it’s like “built-into” the case or something? I really wish I looked into the HRAP more before making my decision…
Source? I sincerely doubt this is true.
EDIT: Pause this video at 2:48. You can see that the joystick is simply screwed in. Take off the balltop, unscrew the 4 mounting screws, and that’s about it.
Yea the Hayabusa shouldn’t be mounted permanently onto the case. It should have 4 screws that’ll let you remove them and then you can drop in whatever you want.
Ahh okay, got it! Yeah… not sure what that person was looking at LOL But then again, I should have done more research on it on my own. :x
Just putting this out there:
The difference between the new PCB revisions (meaning they have the PC/Xinput selector, is that the Kai has wider spacing between the joystick and the buttons, while the hayabusa “V” version has the usual Vewlix spacing.
Both come with hayabusa buttons unless you got the old Kuro version. The joystick itself is decent but is a bit sloppier and has noticeably more throw than a JLF. This stick must be modded if you prefer JLF. Gamers new to fightsticks would not know, or probably care. It’s a great and flexible PC/PS3/4 starter stick. The TE2+ is all Sanwa and is roomy
Weight is the easiest thing to add to any arcade stick.
Alright, the return shipping ended up being super cheap so I’ve decided to return my TE2+ and buy an HRAP4K! Thanks for all the tips and clarification, everyone!
Do you know the spacing between the buttons and the stick for TE2+? Is it silar to the kai or usual vewlix?
TE2+ uses Vewlix layout which is 59mm. Hayabusa also uses this.
Kai uses a wider spacing, it seems close to 95mm…but 95mm seems too wide.