Madcatz Audio Board for Brook PS4+ and Madcatz Front Panel REV 2


Hey everyone

I’ve made a small board who fits in Madcatz TE/SE stick and can be plugged in the Brook PS4+ (with audio) board

As long as this board, I’ve also made a new revision of the front panel I’ve made last year:
Link to the Brook thread where I talked about it Brook Universal Fighting Board Thread
Here’s a video of the REV 1

REV 2 has just the holes for physical switches removed, aligned properly connectors and have now the same orientation as the Brook UFB or PS4+.
Front panel have
[] LS/DP/RS switch
] Lock/Unlock Home/Turbo/Start/Select switch
[] Players LEDs where old top turbo led where or on Players LEDs for SFxT layout.
] Turbo Button + LED.

The harness for the Turbo Button can be change for an other button (TP, R3 or L3).

I’m selling kits on the trading outlet section here:

Kits are:

Front panel + harness

New: The kit is now using harness for presoldered pinhead for LS/DP/RS.

(Note: Can still choose the JST one if you ask)

  • Audio Board + Front Panel

Brook PS4+ Audio Fighting Board Thread
[WTS] Madcatz TE/SE Audio Board for Brook PS4+, madcatz Front Panel for Brook UFB and PS4+

Installing front panel

Cable harness are designed to be plugged with the UFB and PS4+ with connectors’ orientation:

or with 90° header (courtesy from ArcadeShock)

*/!\ If you have a different orientation it won’t work. /!*

If you have headpin connectors please plug in the correct orientation.

Installation of custom harness (i.e TP key)

If you asked a harness other than the turbo one, the cable will look something like this:

It this case this harness is to replace the turbo button (TB key) with the touch pad button (TP key).
The orange one is the ground.

Wiring looks like this:


Wow, making me want to revive my TE right now.


Very nice!


Thanks guys!


kind of a dumb question, but can the front panel be used with a xbox face?


Other than the Home button tops, both PS3 and Xbox front panel face plates are one in the same. It’s the PCBs under them that differ.


ive made some bad assumptions about parts recently, so lately ive been second guessing everything that i think i know.


No worries. Glad to help.


Hi, this is not a dumb question.

As Jopamo said, Xbox front panels are physicaly the same as PS3 ones, minus the home button which have player LEDs which are around them.
My PCB will fit in Xbox front panels, however player LEDS will be where old turbo LEDS where (see the video).


My gummo board with leds around the home button shine just fine on my PS3 TE. There’s enough clear plastic around the button to allow light through. The round 1 PS3 TE has no player leds–at least not on the units I’ve modded.


added installation for custom harness orders (for TP key per exemple)


just got my panel yesterday, everything is working perfectly. thank you phoenix for making everything easy


Thanks. I’m glad you like it.


Finally got around to installing the TE front panel and audio board after I received my Brook PS4+ USB Type B 2017 board. Everything went well, the player LEDs, the lock switch for Home/Start/Select, and the audio/mic port all work great. However I did run into one unforeseen issue.

My Brook PS4+ board came with the pins for the LS/DP/RS switch laid horizontally, making it difficult to connect the wire harness from the TE front panel board. To get the JST/XH connector to fit well, I had to flip it over:

This also meant that I had to pull out and reverse all of the wires and connection terminals in the connector, which wasn’t a big deal. It seems to hold in fine and the LS/DP/RS switch works perfectly.


Thanks for your feedback.

I’ll try to switch to Dupont connector for LS/DP/RS as fasst as possible.


Ah I just got my 2017 board and it also has this.

Am I correct in understanding that you just turned the connector over and reversed the wires? I’m not particularly handy and just bought one of these boards - is it hard?


Dang, I didn’t expect PS4+ 2017 boards to be 90°, but straight like the pic I posted.

Dupont connectors are en route, I’ll update the thread when I got them.


It wasn’t very hard. There are tiny and thin metal tabs that hold each connector inside the plastic connector housing. Using a small metal pin or toothpick, you can carefully press down the tabs on each connector just enough so that it can slide out of the housing.

Just be careful not to press and bend the tab too much or it won’t hold in place when you insert it back in, in which case you would have to carefully bend the tab back out.


like this: