Madcatz Lock-Switch panel. Isolating Guide and switches. Recycle Broken PCB


#1

So I have here a first edition Madcatz ps3 Fightstick SE.
I have recently been asked to fix it up & so I took it apart and probed it all over with my Multimeter and am happy with the connections of everything.

The trouble with the Fight stick is that Triangle is not working. (I think the PCB killed it.)

So I figured I would wire up a different PCB into the shell.
I wired it up same as I would any other stick (connecting vcc & gnd between the two boards)
but with no switches or anything as I have no intentions to ever use the original pcb again.

The reason I wired it up like this was so that I could tap into the turbo panel.
I wanted to use the guide button and the RS switch from the original pcb as extra controls.

Everything was going good until nearing completion of the job where I discovered that the PCB that I added, had now developed a fault and I think it’s because I linked it with the vcc to the duff original board… (Really stupid move huh ???)

So my question is this… Surely it’s possible for me to cut the tracks to isolate the switch(es) (and guide) so that they can be used without needing to power the entire 8818 circuit ?
I don’t care for the original PCB whatsoever and have accepted I will need to (again) replace it for something else.
It would just be nice to be able to use the guide button that already exists on the face of the stick rather than being forced to cut a separate button hole into the case just for the sake of an extra button or 2.

If possible, I appreciate anyone’s input on the subject of recycling the guide and both/either of the lock switches from the madcatz panels.

Many Thanks


#2

Sure. If you 're just using the stock PCB for the button contacts, you can just cut traces and connect the contact pads to the PCB of your choice.
Same goes with the lock switches.

I personally just go the route of soldering my own micro-tact and slider switches on a small piece of perf board, and mount that in instead.


#3

My Thanks for clearing that up.
I have since found some suitable tracks and cut them allowing me to directly access guide and RS.

But, I have another question regarding the Lock switch if I may…
Basically, I’m using the RS point to activate as a held button press.

Is is possible to wire it so that the 3 way switch can be locked and unlocked using the lock switch ?

Eg-1: If lock switch is enabled and switch is slid over to RS it will not activate the RS button and will have no effect…
(Unless the lock is set to unlocked.)

Eg-2: If switch is set to RS and the lock switch is on sliding the switch to either DP or LS will have no effect…
(Again, Unless the lock is set to unlocked.)

Could somebody please tell me that this is possible…
(BTW: I don’t mind cutting any more traces on the pcb, if need be)

Cheers


#4

Totally possible.
You may need to do some magic wiring and major trace-cutting underneath, as I believe that some of the switch contacts are connected to Gnd, and others are NC (not connected) entirely.

Basically, it’ll be easiest if you can isolate the switches completely from the PCB.

What exactly are you trying to achieve with the switches?


#5

Someone please have a diagram of this , this something I’ve been pondering myself


#6

Thank you for the help FreedomGundam. :slight_smile:
To be fair, I had given up on trying to get this to work…

It’s a dual purpose PCB.
You switch modes by grounding a point on the PCB making a bridge with ground.
So I have my bridge as being connected when set to the RS point of the 3Ws on the dp PCB.

In my head it was as simple as cutting the ground trace you want to use for the position/s on the 3Ws so that they are no longer common & then wire up those grounds directly to the middle pin of that lock switch… & I reckoned that would do the job. I haven’t done this yet & In theory, it sounds good…

BUT… The logic of the switch is that once in the locked position (&) button ‘CANNOT’ be pressed and that would be illogical for what I was actually trying to achieve… (which is actually the opposite…)

I do believe it’s possible with the use of NPN transisters or something similar to invert the signal(s…?)
Still learning & I unfortunately I don’t really know enough about electronics to say exactly what you need and this is how its done.

For now… I kinda just left the idea of using the lock switch in conjunction with the 3Ws behind… My stick functions exactly how I wanted it to.
Except I can’t lock the 3Ws. :blush: