Madcatz PS3 controller hack


#1

I’ll preface by saying I’m a recent CompE graduate from Purdue so this should be well within my abilities.

I’m trying to build my own hitbox and have a few questions and need some advice. I did my best to search and look through FAQs so I’m hoping I’m not spamming the forum up/ignoring rules.

  1. Is the Madcatz PS3 as simple as the 360 to solder to? I’ve looked through threads and only seen the 360 version.

  2. If I want to dual mod (PS3 + Xbox) with say a chimpboard? later on, do I have to start with a Xbox360 controller?

  3. I’m a computer engineer not an electrical engineer; however, for the first 2 years of college the 2 curriculums were nearly mirrored. Is there a type of Solder I should be using? A temperature range? I’ve had some failed attempts with a a six-axis when it comes to hitting the smaller spots on the actual PCB.

  4. Is the lag of a wireless controller but plugged in the same as a non-wireless controller?

Thanks in advance all.


#2

-If you are going to use a CHIMP on a dual mod there is no need for the PS3 controller. the Chimp will run the PS3 and you will simply have to solder the 360 pad to it for dual mod.
-Sounds like you are set on using the PS3 controller you can use an IMP to solder connections for the 360 pcb to get a dual mod function. It is a bit cheaper than the Chimp and just as simple.
-I have never used a PS3 controller for dual mod but reading through some threads before I know that it is common ground and you shouldnt have a problem with the dual mod.
-Many here suggest regular rosin core solder for these. the lead free has a diffrent melting point and may cause problems? I dont care to really know the diffrence but regular rosin core 60/40 is suggestion of many.
-seeing that many players prefer wired controllers over wireless its safe to assume that there is a big diffrence with lag but ps3 and 360 have such great set ups wireless it is hard to really say. personally I dont notice the lag issue with the current wireless controllers but many live and die on the corded controllers (as long as the cord isnt over 20 feet in lenth).


#3

You sound like you want to do wireless? You should look into an AXISdapter or Leo board, depending if you want to do a dual mod. Leo board makes the SIXAXIS/ early DS3 boards common ground and makes it easy to solder to via ribbon cable, while AXISdapter just makes it much easier to solder to, by using a ribbon cable as before. The latest official xbox 360 wireless controllers are common ground, except in the triggers, which makes them suitable for a dual mod out of the box, and have big enough points to padhack, that you really don’t need a board for them.

As far as solder and temperature ranges go, there’s nothing specific you really need. As long as it sticks things together and connects them, you’re fine.

Don’t bother with the Madcatz PS3 controller. It’s probably easy enough of a padhack, but ChImp is a much better option for a dual mod, because it adds in console autodetection.

You don’t have to start with either console in particular. It’s just easier and preferred to add PS3 to 360 than the other way around. But if you start with a custom with ChImp, then it wouldn’t really be much harder. As far as xbox 360 controllers go, you either want a madcatz 4716, or a fightpad, with the easier being the fightpad, unless if you can get a board out of a TE or SE, they are nice, too.

Tourneys highly prefer wired, because anybody with a wireless synced to the tourney xbox can accidently bump the guide button and totally ruin a game. Hence, most people wanting to show off their glamourous sticks at tourneys stick with a wired controller. It’s not really an issue of lag, if there is any difference, it’s certainly miniscule, like the 1 frame lag difference of madcatz and Hori PCBs, but Daigo still plays a TE and wins, even if there’s this 1 frame of lag tacked on. If you’re used to it, you’ll be fine with it.


#4

Do not use a Madcatz PS3 pad unless it is the fighting pad. They have issues with directions.


#5

I was impatient and bought a random wired controlled (Amazon.com: Afterglow AP.1 Controller for PS3 - Blue “New for 2010”: Playstation 3: Video Games). I’m wondering if I can de-solder the two analog sticks and have the controller still work. Anybody know?


#6

You’ll probably have to substitute some resistors. The analog sticks are usually 2-d potentiometers.