Making my own fightstick - layout issues + cheaperPCB



So I made the general layout for the cover, and this is how it looks like. I have some quick questions about it:

First off, you can see that I made two sets of holes, with the second set not being cut all the way through. I left that area for the nuts of screw-on buttons. Now, the nut diameters are stated on slagcoin to be around 36 mm, but I made it much bigger; my diameter is the size of the nut diameters PLUS the size of my fingers inside it so I can actually stick my fingers in there to screw it in (I think it comes out to be 59 mm?). I’m not sure if this is going to be too thin, or if it’s an issue at all. I will be using HDPE plastic, and it will be only 4mm thick at that specific location. The TOTAL thickness will be 0.75". Any thoughts if I should shrink that counterbore?

Second, technically couldn’t I just rip the pcb off of something like this:
I was looking at the Cthulu board but I have access to solder, so I could use something cheap like a PS2/PS3 controller. Is there something cheaper though? Ultimately, I don’t want to spend too much money on this part which is why I’m straying away from the Cthulu pcb, but I still want functionality on PS2/PC.

LASTLY, I have a total of 2.25 inches of empty space height-wise when I assemble the whole thing. Is that enough space to put in my buttons + wires + pcb + etc.?

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!


Some Chinese sellers on ebay have PS2/PS3/PC PCBs for about~$15


you wouldn’t happen to have any links for that right? google turns up some expired stuff or things that aren’t anywhere near that price range.


Zero delay encoder has PC/PS2/PS3 for around $20.


2.25" should be plenty to fit your sticks guts in. You can find the Zero Delay Encoder on eBay.


Thanks, and I’m assuming it’s this guy: Will this work with Sanwa buttons? I was unsure why it was said that it would be expressly for “Happ type style buttons”. In addition, since I’m not using a joystick and instead directional buttons (WASD Style), will this work fine? WIll i need anything extra?

Finally, in, do I need to have to leave space for sticking my fingers into to rotate it, or did I just go crazy and should reduce that by a lot?


There’s a .110" connector version designed for Japanese buttons and a 5 pin connector.

Worth mentioning that I had to re-arrange the pins in the 5 pin connector with mine- an easy fix (no soldering required).


great stuff, thanks.