MC Cthulhu and TE Kitty advantages/disadvantages?


Hi all,

New to the forums and am looking for a stick to cater for wii(gamecube), Ps3, PC and Xbox 360.

After a lot of searching and lurking around about the MC Cthulhu and Kitty I couldn’t find the right answers no matter how hard I searched.

So far what I understand is:

  • They both currently support the same variety of consoles (MC Cthulhu with Imp and 360 PCB).
  • They can both terminate to an RJ45 connection for customized cables for each console.
  • The Kitty can only be put into the specific stick model it was designed for whilst the MC Cthulhu can be modded into practically any stick.
  • The Kitty is currently out of stock with no listed ETA but the MC Cthulhu + Imp v2 can still be purchased.
  • The MC Cthulhu + Imp v2 require soldering whereas the Kitty does not.

So onto what I can’t find the answers to.

Apart from the things listed above are there any further substantial differences between the two?

Specifically I’m unsure if the MC Cthulhu can retain the turbo mode in a TE the way the Kitty can.

Also, if using a 360 TE stick, would the MC Cthulhu suffer from the TE’s 360 pcb trigger problem? The Kitty’s later revision apparently addressed that but I could not find anything about it for the Cthulhu.

Thanks in advance for any information!

  1. You answered most of your own questions;

  2. From personal experience – NO, the MC Cthulu does not support Turbo functionality. Sorry, you lose something, you gain something… Frankly, I think the loss of “Turbo” is more than offset by the compatibility with more systems. Not all buttons work on other systems at any rate… In my experience, Turbo is only useful with old-style shooter games, and even then it doesn’t always work depending on how well the system supports a joystick/button functions.

  3. At this late stage when new systems are getting launched later in the year, I wouldn’t expect Toodles to do a new run of TE Kitty’s. Very limited market for those to begin with… and people are already demanding backwards compatibility with the existing joysticks from the new systems that haven’t even been released yet! Nobody knows how they’re programmed, nobody knows IF the new systems can be cracked to support existing joysticks. There’s enough headache there and some people are delaying buying things like the PS360+ and MC Cthulu because of those unanswerable questions!
    It’ll be at least six months to a year after the PS4 and XBox One get released before the backwards compatibility issues are answered. That’ll depend on as much on the number of fighting games released on those systems in the meantime as well as the short-term memory of the FGC and whether many people will care to use older joysticks on the new systems as new joystick models get released.

  4. You have to decide what’s more important to you – compatibility with as many systems as possible, OR is dual-system (360/PS3) compatibility enough for you? It depends on how much you’re willing to pay, what you’re willing to invest in time for mods – what’s more important for you?

  5. Decisions to make on what hardware to buy… Forget the TE Kitty unless you want to wait a while and see if someone has a TE Kitty they didn’t use… They’ll probably charge more for it now that it’s out of production.

  6. There are tons of dual-mod tutorials online. Use the ANNOUNCEMENTS threads to look for them OR Google them on your own. Some tutorial do cover the MC Cthulu/360 PCB/Imp situation and you can always ask in Tech Talk if there is a point that confuses or you don’t understand a step in mods.

  7. IF you still want a multi-console joystick but don’t feel you’re up to doing the mod yourself, advertise for a multi-console system mod in the Tech Talk area… Look around and check to see who’s reliable and what their payment rates are. IF you go to tournaments yourself, the bigger tourneys usually have a few people doing joystick dual/multi-console mods, too. Check them out and make sure they’re reliable, first.


All right thanks for such a detailed post. I shall wait to see if anything new pops up for the upcoming consoles before making a decision to mod.



Good luck!

I know all about making decisions and having limited money to spend…!
It’s not fun!

Always refer back to point #5 – IF you get in trouble, don’t be afraid to ask for help.
People are more understanding about others having modding issues/electrical help (needed bad!) than they are about someone asking about what’s the best joystick on the market for the millionth time.

It’s the opinion posts (“What’s better? This or that joystick?” “Do the Korean joysticks really work better for Tekken?” “IF I get the same joystick Daigo used to win the last EVO tournament, will it make me a better player?”) that drive the older SRK members and Mods crazy… Not technical questions. Technical questions are what Tech Talk forum is for.

For me, I went with the MC Cthulu (I have two joysticks equipped with these PCB’s) because I own enough retro-consoles to make it worthwhile and I’m BOTH a Sega (Saturn/Dreamcast) and Sony (PS2/PS3 and probably PS4) fan. I also have a GameCube but no plans so far to equip use an MCCthulu-stick with it… yet. I also don’t happen to own a 360 and dual-system compatibility was never the main issue for me… (Although ironically if I end up buying a Razer/360-only Atrox joystick I’ll HAVE to buy a Cerberus PCB to ensure compatibility with my PS3. The ironies!)

It also happens that I own a Mac AND PC (AMD/Nividia board). For the PC I have, the Cthulu seems to be most compatible PCB controller board to use with it. (NOTE: It makes no difference whether you use an MC Cthulu or “vanilla” original/PS3 Cthulu with Mac or PC. The computers detect the PCB in the joystick either way. For $5 extra, though, it makes more sense to go ahead and buy the MC Cthulu if you have enough retro consoles.)

I have not had the issues others with Mad Catz TE’s have had with the AMD/Nividia PC’s and it’s frankly been more compatible with PC OR Mac than even my Hori joysticks! I got lucky there and picked the better third-party PCB to use across the spectrum of emulators and PC freeware games (MAME, SNESx, NEStopia, Vanguard Princess, Typhoon) that I play. So far, I’ve had no issues using my Cthulu-equipped joysticks on ANY emulator or game playable on my personal computers.

Toodles has never made a bad product that I can recall in 4 years on SRK.
The MC Cthulu is really his masterpiece, IMHO… Within two years after getting my first MC Cthulu, he added Dreamcast and Saturn support to the PCB and worked out the bugs the PCB originally had with the PS2 and (to a lesser extent) GameCube. All I had to do to add the other consoles was to reflash and update the MC Cthulu’s firmware. Nice piece of electronical engineering!


Yeh it is definitely great to see that Toodles has gone through all the hard work to cater to the genre fan-base in such a thorough way. It’s definitely something that most big companies fail at for lack of passion. As a big PC and Ps3 gamer, here’s hoping the PS4 retains the level of USB HID compatibility that the PS3 had!


As a heads up. At this stage in the game some solid converters are available that can help with some of these choices if you want to avoid soldering work and don’t care as much about keeping everything neat and clean inside the stick or if you are starting from a custom stick instead of an existing PS3 or 360 stick. I’m making sticks with approximately the same set of consoles as you (PS3 + 360 + Retro consoles) using an MC Cthulhu and at this point I’ve honestly just chosen to ditch the idea of adding in the 360 pad / Imp and I’m just going to use the eTokki converter for the 360 support. I was already going to have the RJ-45->PSX cables for using my sticks with a PS2, so I’ve got the perfect input for the eTokki direct from my stick. So the way I figured it is that I could either:

A. Buy a 360 Fightpad and an Imp V2 ($30ish), perform hours of soldering work (I’ve padhacked before but it’s still not a simple process for me, I’m no pro), and have to figure out how to get the whole mess contained and wired neatly inside my stick.


B. Put in a simple MC Cthulhu PCB, no padhacking required for my PS3 and all retro consoles support and use an eTokki converter ($30) for 360 support via the MC Cthulhu’s PS2 output option. It keeps the stick insides way, way cleaner and with all the controls and connections at one simple spot it will be easier if I need to remove it and swap it out with a next gen PCB or padhack.

Just a possible idea from someone making the same choices as you are. I’ll agree that it gets annoying to trying to figure out the best setup sometimes, especially with a generational swap coming on. Just my take on it, obviously not the right call if you want to have all the options inside your stick directly.


That is an awesome alternative actually! Keeping it open to the use of a next gen PCB if it ever becomes possible is a great idea!