MC Cthulhu + Imp v2 + Madcatz xbox360 + RJ45 custom stick + ArcEye2 + Toodles FGwidget LED control

Hi SRK members. I would like to start off thanking the community for the help I’ve got from all the tutorials and guides that can be found on SRK forum.

I would like to thank Toodles help, rtdzign’s tutorials, info from one of Phreakazoid187 post and TRNG padhacking thread.

I would like to thank purplearms for his ArcEye 2s

I would like to thank Art Hong for his great plexi and custom art cut outs.

These are some of the tutorials and threads I got info from
Post #73 by Phreakazoid187 for soldering Guide button on the fightpad.

Also additional infomation I got from slagcoin.
slagcoin Joystick Controller page

I would like to thank these two shops I’ve got my parts from.
Lizard Lick Amusements

This is my first custom built arcade stick that will be multi-console. It’s still under construction as I still haven’t have my box finished yet but the internals been put together and tested.

NOTE: UDATE the MC Cthulhu firmware before soldering the Imp v2 to it or you’ll have problems!

Wiring diagram hope this helps a bit (corrected)

Let’s start with the PCBs. Here I’ve got the MC Cthulhu and Imp v2

I’ve soldered the RJ45 pin connector to the Imp v2

For those who dont want to solder a RJ45 pin connector this is a diagram of the board for direct wire solder. I borrowed the pic of the Imp v2 from LizardLicks photo since I dont have one without the pin connector and photoshopped each spot.

Here I soldered the wires on the underside of the MC Cthulhu row 1 G,A,B,C,D,E,F,V and one wire to the 2nd row V

I then soldered the corresponding wires to the Imp v2

I’ve also soldered a wire to the VCC point on the Imp v2 and connected the other end to the VCC screw terminal on the MC Cthulhu

Then I prepped the Madcatz Xbox 360 PCB that I took out of a Brawl pad.
I cut the USB cable at a decent length so I could just use the wires off that to solder instead of soldering new wires.

Now soldering the xbox PCB to the MC Cthulhu. I soldered all the corresponding wires to row A-H and 1-9.

I’ve put everything together to test out if everything is working and it’s working on PC/360/PS3 so far with no problems. I haven’t made the other cables yet.

I promise it won’t look so messy like that once it’s in the box lol.

Hot glued the 360 PCB wires

These are the sides for the case

Case almost done.

Case together and running. Just need a finishing touch. Buttons are Seimitsu PS-14-K-N Clear on top six buttons. PS-14-D-N-K Smoke for Home/Select/Start buttons. PS-14-D-N-K Clear for P4/K4 buttons on the side. Seimitsu LS-56-1 stick with double spring, Clear bubble ball top and Octagonal gate.

Artwork and plexi

This is how far I got.
I have finally finished my custom stick with the installation of Toodles FGwidget LED control board and purplearms ArcEye2s. Here is a video of my stick.


Hitbox build.

Pad hacking.

Hitbox finished.

Nice Write up so far.

Looks like the new Imp v2 is easier to wire than the first imp, although more wiring is required. (the A to A, B to B and so on wiring).

Thanks. I’m still in the process of finishing things up. It took me couple hours to solder all the wires up lol. I’ll be hot gluing the wires on the 360 PCB today when I get off work. And possibly do a wire diagram. I’m still waiting for my Sparky Jr and Arc Eye2s so I can do a write up on those also.

Updated with picture wire diagram :slight_smile:

be careful with the long of the “naked” wire on the 360 pcb, there was a thread long ago with tips for that :slight_smile:

Yea I know I’ll be hot gluing them soon I just had to test out if it worked before I hot glued them. :slight_smile:

One thing:

Your fightpad BACK/START connections. You have it connected it ground. It’s the outside legs that are signal; not the inside.

(might want to double check just in case)

You’re right I guess I did it in a hurry last night I over looked it. I’ll correct it when I get home. On the actual pcb I have it soldered to the correct spots.

Updated with correct wire diagram.

Updated with case together and running. Works on PS3, 360, PC, Wii, PS2 and Dreamcast :smiley:

beautiful ;; i want an IMP v2 ;; yesterday i dualmodded a 360TE with MC Cthulhu + IMP v2 and was pretty straightforward

You didn’t go for a Kitty TE instead?

i’m not from the US, so ordering a kitty TE is harder lol, when lizardlick carries them i’ll be ordering :smiley:

Thanks Torta. Once I finish this stick I’ll be building a Hit Box with the same setup. Except I’ll prollie do a smaller box since I don’t need height for a stick.

Try them - they’re rather lovely :slight_smile:

There’s something quite satisfying about not having to solder anything and still getting full multi-console features. Thinking out loud, I found that 25cm RJ45 cables fit perfectly between the board and the Neutrik jack.

Awesome job!
I like the case a lot . I do my neutrik ports the same way but I recess the front too so it sits flush with the case. Is that UHMW you made the case out of? If not, what material is that?

I’m not sure cause my dad machined the case for me from scrap pieces he had laying around his machine shop. As for the top and bottom pieces are polycarbonate and the plexi I got from Art. I’ll ask him to find out what material it is since his coworker gave him the scrap.

I like the six button layout also but I figure I’ll put the extra two buttons on the side just in case I need them for certain games which I doubt I’ll ever use lol.

I want to know what it is. :sad:

I would like to know myself jdm. I asked him before but he didn’t know either and told me his coworker gave it to him. He’s been using them to make his LED flash lights. Which I have a set of lights he made for me for working under the hood of cars. I’ll definitely find out what material it is.

BTW thanks for the compliment NiteWalker :slight_smile:

My mistake, I looked at the chun stick and then the one you built and thought I saw 8 face buttons.
That’s an awesome stick and I’m more intrigued about the material now too.