Seems like theres no way to get it out of there so I was wondering if theres like a way to mod that or to just replace the part. Any help is welcome. Thank you
I’d guess you could try to fish it out with something thin and skinny like a pin or you could try using a small drop of krazy glue (works with metal amongst other things) on the broad end of a small nail or cut up toothpick and try to see if it bonds strongly enough for you to pull it out gently.
Be careful not to get any on the interior edges of the jack, otherwise you could be worse off than before. Having with the stick facing upwards while drying, so the downwards force of gravity connects it to the broken bit, rather than the jack’s sides may help.
aight i’ll try that thanks, i’ll post how it goes once i try it
its not sticking hard enough to pull the piece out. is there any other alternatives to fixing this?
That darned Mich. Always breaking our stuff when we’re not looking…
Happened to me too, I tried different things and couldn’t get it. Just buy a bluetooth headset
I’m not planning on opening up my Tournament Edition joysticks anytime soon 'cause they’re too expensive to for me screw around with. However I am do have a used Standard Edition I bought off of ebay for relatively cheap some time ago to practice on. I wouldn’t imagine it would be too terribly different. While the exact process might be different for you, I’ll share with you my findings in the hopes that they may be helpful:
The stupid webcam on my computer doesn’t exactly allow me to position things very well but there’s some good news. The headphone jack is a separate PCB connected to the main circuit board by means of a disconnectable cable.
The box to the left is where this little PCB is, while the one to the right is where it connects to the main board. As you can see, the screws are glued into place
You’ll want to remove that glue before anything else. A small bent paperclip should allow you the dexterity to scrape off the red glue on the scows without scratching this PCB like I did when trying to use my screwdriver. If too much of this red glue remains, it’ll keep the screw firmly in place, you’ll strip the screwhead and it’ll probably be stuck in there for good, as a manner of speaking practically.
The white connector also has a sort of yellowish glue on one end. Before removing this PCB, you’ll want to cut that glue with something thin and stiff, like maybe a butter knife…. Once the bond is cut, you can proceed to pull the connector up slowly using your hands or some sort of gripping tool. I just used my thumbnail under the plastic lip on the side and wiggled it out gradually.
I had to make a second cut in the glue since it’s pretty deep in there. Fortunately some of it stretched out allowing me to do so.
Once this connector is removed, you can take out the PCB with its connected cable and you should end up with something like this. You see that gold bit on the top? There’s a little hole there where it looks like you might be able to get at the broken piece. It’s the only hole in the entire headphone jack.
I don’t have a broken headset piece to try this out myself with, however I do have an idea. Not sure if it’s a good one or not but here it is:
Most headphone ends have a bit of plastic of a plastic ring around them. Assuming we didn’t screw ourselves over with the crazy glue stunt earlier, I’m fairly sure your headset will have plastic bits in it. You could try to want to take a pin, stab it into a plastic ring and try to push it outwards until you see the very tip. Then you can probably push it out from the back.
Shouldn’t be too hard to put a new one of these back in if you can find somebody else willing to part with one of theirs. I’d consider giving you mine but I won’t because:
A. Never have and never could test it to know if it works since I don’t actually have a 360.
B. I just scraped the PCB trying to take it out so even if it was likely to be working, it might not be now. -_-"b
C. I’d probably not be able to find a new one myself. XD
Not sure if there are any other inexpensive controllers which you could salvage a similar headset piece from to solder in.
If none of this helps, I’m stumped…